FocusCanada Forums

Damn, my local Parts Source and Canadian Tire don't have the spring compressors in, all rented.. I guess I'll have to look around for a further one. Damnit@!

you can likely get one around the corner from my shop. partsource there always has em when i go in there.

Cool, that would be perfect.. I'll call and see if I can reserve it.

Well the new strut bearings are on and the noise seems to be gone now. One weird though is that when we tightened the driver side strut bolt, it just spins.

tetra,Apr 18 2010, 04:08 PM Wrote:Well the new strut bearings are on and the noise seems to be gone now. One weird though is that when we tightened the driver side strut bolt, it just spins.
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Do you mean the strut to strut cap (top hat) nut, the strut to strut tower nut, ot one of the lower bolts?

strut nut up top.

it basically only need another 1/4 turn or so, and i have never had an issue getting them tight when back on the car. usually i get it semi tight, get the fron suspension back together, put it on the ground and with pressure from the car, it wont spin the piston. well the drivers side aint working so well LOL

i loosened it off without it spinning at first to "crack" it before removing everything....

soo odd. i gave him a socket to take home and try it after a good days drive.

hopefully its fixed as it will obviously give a bit of a clunk over big bumps on that side.

but strut bearings fixed the problem. took forever and a year to do it tho as i had to take apart the complete stock assembly LOL

GFXjamie,Apr 18 2010, 11:02 PM Wrote:strut nut up top.

it basically only need another 1/4 turn or so, and i have never had an issue getting them tight when back on the car. usually i get it semi tight, get the fron suspension back together, put it on the ground and with pressure from the car, it wont spin the piston. well the drivers side aint working so well LOL

i loosened it off without it spinning at first to "crack" it before removing everything....

soo odd. i gave him a socket to take home and try it after a good days drive.

hopefully its fixed as it will obviously give a bit of a clunk over big bumps on that side.

but strut bearings fixed the problem. took forever and a year to do it tho as i had to take apart the complete stock assembly LOL
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IIRC at the top of the piston rod there is place to put a hex head socket or something, and using that to prevent the piston from spinning, use a box wrench to tighten the nut.

ZTWsquared,Apr 18 2010, 11:22 PM Wrote:IIRC at the top of the piston rod there is place to put a hex head socket or something, and using that to prevent the piston from spinning, use a box wrench to tighten the nut.
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Correct

I don't have any of those, you have any by any chance Jamie?
I tried tightening it after the ride home yesterday and she's still spinning.

ive never had to do that any time doing my suspension or friends. the pressure of the car will always stop the piston from turning.

not the case here however LOL

worst case, bring it by again, we will remove it, tighten it up outside the car and have it all good. it literally need 1/4 turn LOL

Hey Jamie,

I tried tightening it at lunch (after going over several bumps and speed bumps) and it still turns. Also there is a clunk and looseness feeling only on the driver side which is the one we can't tighten down. I'm starting to wonder if my strut is bad.. I guess if we tighten it down hard and it's still occuring I could have a bad strut :(

it wont be a bad strut. we will have to remove it and tighten it up outside the car i think. shudnt take us long as we dont need a compressor for it. just remove and re install. it didnt take too long for that shiat.

im surprised it still wont tighten tho. first set of springs i ever did, it did the same then after a couple night i tried it again and it tightened. its odd...

Yeah I know, it's definitely weird man.. Unless it's something else under there that feels loose. Maybe we can take a quick peak at that as well.. Weekend again or something?

ya for sure

Here's a response from jetrinka on FF about the spinning:

"If those nuts aren't tightened down all the way you will for sure get a clunking sound as the spring moves in its seat. I am not sure about the Ford racing style but most others have some sort of allen key or something on the very top part of the piston that the nut threads onto. Get the correct holding tool such as an allen if thats what fits it and use an offset wrench to turn the nut down while holding that piston still.

If there isn't any hole for a holding tool to go into then your going to have to figure out a way to hold that top part of the piston still while you turn that nut down like the vice grips you were using. That nut must bottom out on its threads for this problem not to happen. Only then is it properly installed.

And no the piston turning while you try to tighten it is not a bad thing. Totally normal. Just find a way to hold it still while you turn that nut all the way down and your problem will be solved. "

Sorry couldn't make it out this weekend Jamie.
Today I tried tightening her up and she's still spinning! What a biatch! lol

im free tomorrow evening between 6 and 9 so drop by or wednesday works to if you can. we will take it off and re tighten it up outside the car.

so weird. we loosened it off 90% of the way with them on the car!

Yeah I know dude, weird ass s***!
I'll send you a txt and we'll see what's up. I have you beer in my trunk lol

Well, we tightened everything down, changed strut bearings.. Noise still persists. Then we pulled on the drive shaft on the driver side and there is some movement in it creating a sound. Should you be able to move the drive shaft AT all?

LOOK WHAT I FOUND!

TSB
10-8-5 CLICK/POP NOISE FROM FRONT END WHILE TURNING OR GOING OVER BUMPS

Publication Date: April 27, 2010

FORD: 2008-2010 Focus


This article supersedes TSB 09-18-2 to update the Service Procedure, Service Labor Time Standards and Part List.

ISSUE:
Some 2008-2010 Focus vehicles may exhibit a click/pop type noise from the front end while turning and/or driving over bumps, or a creak/squeak noise from front when driving over bumps. The noise may be isolated to front stabilizer bar end links, front upper strut bearing area, and/or lower control arm.

ACTION:
Follow the service procedure to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Install Chassis Ear JSP97202 in the Rotunda Technician Tool Program or equivalent to identify and isolate the source of the noise.
Drive the vehicle over moderate bumps and perform left and right turns.
If a click/pop noise is coming from front stabilizer bar end link(s), proceed to Step 3.
If a click/pop noise is from upper strut bearing area, go to Step 4.
If a creak/squeak type noise is coming from a lower control arm, go to Step 5.
Front stabilizer bar end link click/pop noise.
Is vehicle built on or before 1/11/2010?
Yes - remove and install four (4) revised stabilizer bar end link nuts per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-01; torque to 46 lb-ft (63 N-m).
No - replace affected stabilizer bar end link(s) per WSM, Section 204-01; torque nuts to 46 lb-ft (63 N-m).
Upper strut bearing click/pop noise.
Is vehicle built on or between 10/01/2007 and 10/31/2007?
Yes - replace upper strut bearing per WSM, Section 204-01; torque nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m).
No - proceed to Step 3b.
Is vehicle built on or before 11/30/2008?
Yes - inspect the three (3) upper strut mount nuts for signs of looseness. Torque nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m).
No - replace suspect strut per WSM, Section 204-01; torque upper nuts to 30 lb-ft (40 N-m).
Lower control arm creak/squeak noise.
Replace the affected lower control arm per WSM, Section 204-01.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
9S4Z-3078-A Lower Control Arm - Right Hand
9S4Z-3079-A Lower Control Arm - Left Hand
9S4Z-18124-C Front Strut - Right Hand, w/ Rear Stabilizer Bar
9S4Z-18124-E Front Strut - Right Hand, w/o Rear Stabilizer Bar
9S4Z-18124-D Front Strut - Left Hand, w/ Rear Stabilizer Bar
9S4Z-18124-F Front Strut - Left Hand, w/o Rear Stabilizer Bar
8S4Z-18198-A Strut Bearing
AS4Z-5K484-AA Front Stabilizer Bar End Link
W-713760-S440 Nut - Stabilizer Bar Link


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
100805A 2008-2010 Focus: Includes Diagnosing With Chassis Ears And Road Test, Labor Operation Should Be Claimed With B, C, D, E, F Or G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.8 Hr.
100805B 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Four (4) Stabilizer Bar End Link Nuts Or Stabilizer Bar End Links, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, C, D, E, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.2 Hr.
100805C 2008-2010 Focus: Replace One (1) Upper Strut Bearing Or Strut Assembly, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, E, F, And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.5 Hr.
100805D 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Both (2) Sides Upper Strut Bearings Or Strut Assemblies, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.8 Hr.
100805E 2008-2010 Focus: Tighten Both (2) Sides Upper Strut Bearing Retainers, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, F And G (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.1 Hr.
100805F 2008-2010 Focus: Replace One (1) Lower Control Arm, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, C, D And E (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.3 Hr.
100805G 2008-2010 Focus: Replace Both (2) Sides Lower Control Arms, Labor Operation Can Be Claimed With A, B, C, D, E And F (Do Not Use With Any Labor Operations Outside Of This Article) 0.4 Hr.


DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
3B438 24