So... I have always been a fan of turbo cars... and well i think its time to start my saving for this kit!
What do you guys think? a stage 2 kit?
I will hopefully be doing this over the winter/spring time, any help would be great when it comes to installation time.
Im also looking for some input from current owners of the kit, AKA ignited83 and oscar, how long did it take you to do install and how long did it take to do remote tuning with randy?
I plan to have this all wrapped up in the next year or less.
Comments and recommendations are all welcome
Also along with this, once i have ordered the kit the following items will be up for grabs:
OBX stainless 4-1 header/flex pipe
Focussport Intake
Possibly my FS exhaust...(mite upgrade to 2.5")
on a side not.....wanna do them struts this weekend already? lol
its been draggin for like a year :lol:
NikiterZTS,Jun 18 2009, 02:24 PM Wrote:on a side not.....wanna do them struts this weekend already? lol
its been draggin for like a year :lol:
[right][snapback]289790[/snapback][/right]
sunday morning work? i know its fathers day so spend dinner with him!
GFXjamie,Jun 18 2009, 02:27 PM Wrote:NikiterZTS,Jun 18 2009, 02:24 PM Wrote:on a side not.....wanna do them struts this weekend already? lol
its been draggin for like a yearÃÂ :lol:
[right][snapback]289790[/snapback][/right]
sunday morning work? i know its fathers day so spend dinner with him!
[right][snapback]289792[/snapback][/right]
i think sunday works for me.......where though>???
Alright here goes.
The FS Turbo is great. However if you are thinking about doing this, you should call Randy at Focussport to discuss the options available, especially how far you want your build to go. As for myself, I went with the GT28. I want passing power but the occasional race setup.
Cost wise:
Stage 1 Kit 3195.00
Stage 2 Kit 699.00
AEM Uego Wideband 250.00
Gauges, Pod, Wiring 250.00
New MAF Sensor 300.00
Add Freight and Duty and taxes.
You're going to have to make a few trips to Napa for missing things, hose clamps, hose heat shielding, sheet metal for an alternator heat shield. On FJ, Randy recommends a heat shield for the firewall, but that heat shield is for a PZEV engine, kinda worthless to us.
Comments on installation of stage 1:
Pros
1. Very easy to follow instructions.
2. Installation was over 2 days or 10hrs. One day to remove items and install Turbo/Manifold.
Cons
1. Contrary to the instructions, Install the TURBO and MANIFOLD LAST. PITA running tubing and hoses with it in the way.
2. Ask Randy for some Fuel injector adapters for the Bosch ones. I think CFM has them too. Cutting the fuel injector wires is another PITA since they are so short.
3. The MAF sensor location really stretches the wiring. Recommend finding some sort of extension.
All in all it is a pretty easy installation.
Datalogging with Randy is easy. Just do the datalogs and send to him via e-mail and he sends you the new tune.
As for the experience, IT IS FUN. Its even more fun having a sleeper setup. Keeping the second cat keeps the car fun, but quiet when you need to.
Now stage 2
The install is pretty easy for the intercooler, takes about an afternoon with a friend and a few beers.
I've only got as far as installing the boost gauge and boost tee, but the intercooler makes a good difference even on the stage 1 tune.
Just look at my sig and you'll see what I got.
I highly recommend getting new rubber, a dogbone mount, and 2.5" exhaust.
As from what I know that you like to drag race, upgrade your clutch and LSD before going Stage 2. Stage 2 with lots of hard shifting will kill a clutch fast.
from what i've read when going turbo you want at least 2.5'' for the exhaust because turbo's don't like backpressure, and theres other people who say 3'' shows even better gains, if you do decide to go stage 2, get a 3''.
Oscar The Grouch,Jun 18 2009, 05:22 PM Wrote:Alright here goes.
The FS Turbo is great. However if you are thinking about doing this, you should call Randy at Focussport to discuss the options available, especially how far you want your build to go. As for myself, I went with the GT28. I want passing power but the occasional race setup.
Cost wise:
Stage 1 Kit 3195.00
Stage 2 Kit 699.00
AEM Uego Wideband 250.00
Gauges, Pod, Wiring 250.00
New MAF Sensor 300.00
Add Freight and Duty and taxes.
You're going to have to make a few trips to Napa for missing things, hose clamps, hose heat shielding, sheet metal for an alternator heat shield. On FJ, Randy recommends a heat shield for the firewall, but that heat shield is for a PZEV engine, kinda worthless to us.
Comments on installation of stage 1:
Pros
1. Very easy to follow instructions.
2. Installation was over 2 days or 10hrs. One day to remove items and install Turbo/Manifold.
Cons
1. Contrary to the instructions, Install the TURBO and MANIFOLD LAST. PITA running tubing and hoses with it in the way.
2. Ask Randy for some Fuel injector adapters for the Bosch ones. I think CFM has them too. Cutting the fuel injector wires is another PITA since they are so short.
3. The MAF sensor location really stretches the wiring. Recommend finding some sort of extension.
All in all it is a pretty easy installation.
Datalogging with Randy is easy. Just do the datalogs and send to him via e-mail and he sends you the new tune.
As for the experience, IT IS FUN. Its even more fun having a sleeper setup. Keeping the second cat keeps the car fun, but quiet when you need to.
Now stage 2
The install is pretty easy for the intercooler, takes about an afternoon with a friend and a few beers.
I've only got as far as installing the boost gauge and boost tee, but the intercooler makes a good difference even on the stage 1 tune.
Just look at my sig and you'll see what I got.
I highly recommend getting new rubber, a dogbone mount, and 2.5" exhaust.
As from what I know that you like to drag race, upgrade your clutch and LSD before going Stage 2. Stage 2 with lots of hard shifting will kill a clutch fast.
[right][snapback]289799[/snapback][/right]
^^ double bonus points for an exceptionally helpful post.
Oscar The Grouch,Jun 18 2009, 04:22 PM Wrote:Alright here goes.
The FS Turbo is great. However if you are thinking about doing this, you should call Randy at Focussport to discuss the options available, especially how far you want your build to go. As for myself, I went with the GT28. I want passing power but the occasional race setup.
Cost wise:
Stage 1 Kit 3195.00
Stage 2 Kit 699.00
AEM Uego Wideband 250.00
Gauges, Pod, Wiring 250.00
New MAF Sensor 300.00
Add Freight and Duty and taxes.
You're going to have to make a few trips to Napa for missing things, hose clamps, hose heat shielding, sheet metal for an alternator heat shield. On FJ, Randy recommends a heat shield for the firewall, but that heat shield is for a PZEV engine, kinda worthless to us.
Comments on installation of stage 1:
Pros
1. Very easy to follow instructions.
2. Installation was over 2 days or 10hrs. One day to remove items and install Turbo/Manifold.
Cons
1. Contrary to the instructions, Install the TURBO and MANIFOLD LAST. PITA running tubing and hoses with it in the way.
2. Ask Randy for some Fuel injector adapters for the Bosch ones. I think CFM has them too. Cutting the fuel injector wires is another PITA since they are so short.
3. The MAF sensor location really stretches the wiring. Recommend finding some sort of extension.
All in all it is a pretty easy installation.
Datalogging with Randy is easy. Just do the datalogs and send to him via e-mail and he sends you the new tune.
As for the experience, IT IS FUN. Its even more fun having a sleeper setup. Keeping the second cat keeps the car fun, but quiet when you need to.
Now stage 2
The install is pretty easy for the intercooler, takes about an afternoon with a friend and a few beers.
I've only got as far as installing the boost gauge and boost tee, but the intercooler makes a good difference even on the stage 1 tune.
Just look at my sig and you'll see what I got.
I highly recommend getting new rubber, a dogbone mount, and 2.5" exhaust.
As from what I know that you like to drag race, upgrade your clutch and LSD before going Stage 2. Stage 2 with lots of hard shifting will kill a clutch fast.
[right][snapback]289799[/snapback][/right]
Very helpful post, thanks!
To go along with the kit i will be getting a new clutch/flywheel, just havent decided on which yet. I am pondering the 2.5" FS exhaust but what i mite do is run the 2.25 for a little bit until i have the cash to upgrade to 2.5 or 3.0.
I have a dogbone mount already in the car so thats set. I plan on buying stage 1 and 2 at the same time, that way i can get it all put together at one time.
So far i have been talking to randy on focaljet regarding the turbo options as well as other general inquiries.
Thanks so far for the responses
You don't need to by an AEM and gauges from FS you can pick that stuff up locally for alot cheaper. Great post by Oscar talking from experience I see.
ZX3_2NV,Jun 19 2009, 09:45 AM Wrote:You don't need to by an AEM and gauges from FS you can pick that stuff up locally for alot cheaper. Great post by Oscar talking from experience I see.
[right][snapback]289842[/snapback][/right]
Yeah you don't have to buy the AEM and Gauges from FS. All i bought from FS is the Stage 1 and 2 kit, the rest I bought from other sources.
For gauges, I recommend Glowshift.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/
They make a pod which fits the 00-07 focus as well as an oil adapter for oil temperature.
For oil, FS recommends Royal purple or Mobil 1, I use Quacker state.
GFXjamie,Jun 19 2009, 08:46 AM Wrote:To go along with the kit i will be getting a new clutch/flywheel, just havent decided on which yet. I am pondering the 2.5" FS exhaust but what i mite do is run the 2.25 for a little bit until i have the cash to upgrade to 2.5 or 3.0.[right][snapback]289833[/snapback][/right]
Get a diff to while you have the tranny out, it will help with traction quite a bit.
Its a FWD turbo car, you want to do as much as you can to help the car stick, trust me.
Spec stage 3 is what I had for a clutch in my car. My 55 year old mother drove it to work a couple of times when her subaru was getting fixed. Very stock feel to it. I had the stock flywheel lightened, I hear its a comepletely different setup (more difficult to drive) with an aftermarket one. My clutch never, ever slipped with that seup, thats with over 220 torque to the wheels. The cost for the spec is very reasonable also. Hardkore has the same setup but with an aftermarket flywheel I beleive, he can comment on the clutch feel for that kind of setup.
As for exhaust, 2.5 will be fine with the 'stock' stage 2 setup, but if your planning on forging the block and getting more power out of it, it would be a good idea to go to a 3" setup right off the bat, that way you're not spending money for nothing down the road. Kind of the same thing for the diff, while its off the car, you'll save the R&R labour costs for having to remove and re-install the tranny twice.
Spend more now, save money later ;)
So i have been thinking about the install and i have a couple questions regarding it for oscar, first off is there any oil lines to be run for the turbo?
Also, i did not personally install my header, but do you need to rock the motor to get the turbo/manifold on? I need all the info i can get to be prepared for the install as it will be me and a couple friends doing all the work on it. Also, what all is required to remove the front bumper to mount intercooler?
One last thing, how hard is it to remove transmission for clutch/flywheel install along with diff? if i can do the work myself i would like to so i can cut down on as much cost wise as possible.
GFXjamie,Jun 21 2009, 12:43 PM Wrote:So i have been thinking about the install and i have a couple questions regarding it for oscar, first off is there any oil lines to be run for the turbo?
Also, i did not personally install my header, but do you need to rock the motor to get the turbo/manifold on? I need all the info i can get to be prepared for the install as it will be me and a couple friends doing all the work on it. Also, what all is required to remove the front bumper to mount intercooler?
One last thing, how hard is it to remove transmission for clutch/flywheel install along with diff? if i can do the work myself i would like to so i can cut down on as much cost wise as possible.
[right][snapback]289895[/snapback][/right]
#1. Oil lines are run easily. T fitting where the oil pressure sensor is near the filter, and the return line goes where the drain plug is. That simple.
#2. If yours is like mine, no need to rock the boat...err i mean motor.
#3. Take off the grill between the headlights, remove the bumper shroud and remove 7 bolts underneath the bumper. Fricken easy.
As for the tranny. I can't help you there. Haven't done that... yet...
Jamie, your bumper will be a little different but all you need is a 7mm socket for the bottom and a 10mm socket for the top bolts.
Your engine will have tones of room for all that extra power. The stock manifold takes so much room up.
I found something you should look into if you're going complete race.
![[Image: 7b2d_1_sbl.JPG]](http://i1.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/3e/5c/7b2d_1_sbl.JPG)
Scorcher000,Jun 21 2009, 04:18 PM Wrote:
[right][snapback]289899[/snapback][/right]
WTF does that do? turn your engine into a 2.3L for cheap??? :lol:
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but what in the H3/_/_ is that going to do? I read the description on their site and all i could do is stare and wonder...
GFXjamie,Jun 23 2009, 09:14 AM Wrote:Anybody? lol
[right][snapback]289976[/snapback][/right]
Looks like you install it on your block to mimic the installation of the head while you do other work such as installing pistons etc etc ... the problem it seems to be solving is the block being distorted.
I believe their description would be more understandable if they had written the first sentence of the second paragraph correctly; I believe it should read:
"The torque from an improperly fastened cylinder head can impart significant distortion to the bore."
The implication being that without the head being on the block the bore is subject to distortion ... and so this piece replaces the head without restricting access to the block for other work.
It's a torque plate, used to replicate the stresses of a cylinder head when honing cylinder walls. The only one who needs that is someone who is rebuilding a short block, and even then the difference it makes is so small to not be worth the cost and effort.
Thanks, ya definitely not building the block yet, i dont have a spare 10g's or more to spend on this project, im just saving up for the kit and all the parts required to have it work. Eventually i will get addicted to boost and build the block but until then.... bah humbug