08-30-2005, 01:10 AM
This mod is fairly simple, I give it a 3-4 out of 10 for difficulty and 2 out of 10 for complexity.
What this mod does is permanently open the SPI's secondary intake runners so that low and midrange power is greatly improved. The SPIs have an almost-legendary "flat spot" where the engine really seems to sag between 2000-3500 RPM.
Here's what you do:
With a cool engine (MUCH EASIER, TRUST ME), locate the IMRC module just behind the coil pack. It's black as well as the coil pack. To make things easier to access the actuator and do the mod, remove your intake (regardless of creed) and airbox, and possibly your battery cover as well. I removed my intake but not the battery cover and managed to do this - YMMV. Also, don't forget to disconnect the negative cable from your battery, or batteries if you're l33t and have a massive stereo system y0!
It has one visible bolt at the top of the unit, and one hidden at the bottom on the opposite corner - right next to the potentially HOT EGR tubing. They're either 8mm or 10mm bolt heads, I can't remember which right now. You'll need to remove both bolts. Go ahead, I'll wait.
After removing both bolts, unclip the wire harness that plugs into the actuator the same way you would unplug the MAF. This detaches the actuator completely. Now, with this done, inspect the linkage arm for the runner control. You'll notice several tabs on the linkage. Working your way counter-clockwise starting with the linkage rotated ALL THE WAY CLOCKWISE (CLOSED), rotate the linkage COUNTER-CLOCKWISE so that the left-most tab is at the 12 o'clock position. This is all the way open for the butterfly valves in the intake manifold.
NOTE: IF YOU ROTATE THE LINKAGE ANY FURTHER (SAY, TO THE STOPPED POSITION ALL THE WAY COUNTER-CLOCKWISE), YOU ARE RE-CLOSING THE BUTTERFLY VALVES AGAIN.
I'm screaming that because the original Waterboy IMRC mod (on several forums and sites) told you to do just that. I "spoke" with Jim, aka Waterboy, a few days ago and he mentioned that that particular tab indeed needed to be pointing at 12 o'clock.
Once you've done that, you can zip-tie or otherwise secure the butterfly valve linkage to that position, and you're done! HURRAY!
Now, what about the CEL I get when I run the engine you say? Simple. Either re-attach the IMRC module to the wiring harness and re-mount it back from the actual linkage with spacers, or ignore the CEL - that's what I'm doing, because I'm lazy.
Don't forget to re-connect your negative cable, reset your time on the stereo, and drive the car for half an hour to remap the air/fuel map. I found that the SPI now scarily feels EXACTLY like the new Duratec 2.0L, including the increased balls down low and through the mid-range. Add in a good SRI or CAI and exhaust, and the SPI is movin' quite easily indeed. B)
What this mod does is permanently open the SPI's secondary intake runners so that low and midrange power is greatly improved. The SPIs have an almost-legendary "flat spot" where the engine really seems to sag between 2000-3500 RPM.
Here's what you do:
With a cool engine (MUCH EASIER, TRUST ME), locate the IMRC module just behind the coil pack. It's black as well as the coil pack. To make things easier to access the actuator and do the mod, remove your intake (regardless of creed) and airbox, and possibly your battery cover as well. I removed my intake but not the battery cover and managed to do this - YMMV. Also, don't forget to disconnect the negative cable from your battery, or batteries if you're l33t and have a massive stereo system y0!
It has one visible bolt at the top of the unit, and one hidden at the bottom on the opposite corner - right next to the potentially HOT EGR tubing. They're either 8mm or 10mm bolt heads, I can't remember which right now. You'll need to remove both bolts. Go ahead, I'll wait.
After removing both bolts, unclip the wire harness that plugs into the actuator the same way you would unplug the MAF. This detaches the actuator completely. Now, with this done, inspect the linkage arm for the runner control. You'll notice several tabs on the linkage. Working your way counter-clockwise starting with the linkage rotated ALL THE WAY CLOCKWISE (CLOSED), rotate the linkage COUNTER-CLOCKWISE so that the left-most tab is at the 12 o'clock position. This is all the way open for the butterfly valves in the intake manifold.
NOTE: IF YOU ROTATE THE LINKAGE ANY FURTHER (SAY, TO THE STOPPED POSITION ALL THE WAY COUNTER-CLOCKWISE), YOU ARE RE-CLOSING THE BUTTERFLY VALVES AGAIN.
I'm screaming that because the original Waterboy IMRC mod (on several forums and sites) told you to do just that. I "spoke" with Jim, aka Waterboy, a few days ago and he mentioned that that particular tab indeed needed to be pointing at 12 o'clock.
Once you've done that, you can zip-tie or otherwise secure the butterfly valve linkage to that position, and you're done! HURRAY!
Now, what about the CEL I get when I run the engine you say? Simple. Either re-attach the IMRC module to the wiring harness and re-mount it back from the actual linkage with spacers, or ignore the CEL - that's what I'm doing, because I'm lazy.
Don't forget to re-connect your negative cable, reset your time on the stereo, and drive the car for half an hour to remap the air/fuel map. I found that the SPI now scarily feels EXACTLY like the new Duratec 2.0L, including the increased balls down low and through the mid-range. Add in a good SRI or CAI and exhaust, and the SPI is movin' quite easily indeed. B)