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http://www.focaljet.com/ubbthreads/showfla...&gonew=1#UNREAD


Not bad with how our dollar is doing right now.

(non-SVT) Vortech Tuner Satin Kits = ~$2800.00 CND
Flofocus,Jan 13 2005, 07:43 PM Wrote:http://www.focaljet.com/ubbthreads/showfla...&gonew=1#UNREAD


Not bad with how our dollar is doing right now.

(non-SVT) Vortech Tuner Satin Kits = ~$2800.00 CND
[right][snapback]78774[/snapback][/right]

KRIKEY! THAT'S CHEAP!!!

Just an FYI...Needs tuning!

01-yellow-ZX3

Hey darkpuppet...would you do it again? Would you recommend the Vortech?

The one thing that really makes me look away from the decision is the cold weather starting fact...
everybody gets scared because of the cold weather! but your fears are taken to the extreme, you don't have to worry about the cold weather at all, it will do absolutly NO harm... unless............. in the early freezing morning as you start the car, you rev it all the way to redlne and stay there all the way to work, so basically it's the owners own stupidity! with any type of forced induction, you SHOULD NOT go into boost until you are certian that your car is FULLY warmed up, which means you shouldn't go over 3.5k rpms until warmed!
im wondering about the tune.. cold weather i dont think is an issue if you warm up the car properly and let the car idle for like 5 minutes in your driveway if you'Ve just "drove it hard"

but its the tune that im wondering.. in 30*c (sometimes 40* even) and then you have -30*c .. the car would not work the same at all, timing for example.. would the timing be advanced since its cold? too much timing?

would the iat sensor do the appropriate changes and thats it? or other thing could be affected
BerinG,Jan 17 2005, 06:53 PM Wrote:im wondering about the tune.. cold weather i dont think is an issue if you warm up the car properly and let the car idle for like 5 minutes in your driveway if you'Ve just "drove it hard"

but its the tune that im wondering.. in 30*c (sometimes 40* even) and then you have -30*c .. the car would not work the same at all, timing for example.. would the timing be advanced since its cold? too much timing?

would the iat sensor do the appropriate changes and thats it? or other thing could be affected
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All tune's are adaptive and if done properly will work in all climates. CFM's deal's we can pass down to our local customers, with dyno tuning.

Let me know!
BerinG:

The tunes are adaptive. You can add/remove timing at all sorts of temperatures. Build a tune that will run good hot, and you'll be safe when cold (though you can tune in a bit more performance at low temps).

That's the GREAT thing about the EECV

SLIP STREAM SVT:

well, you're not taking into account 2 things;
1) the extra load on the engine from a supercharger that turns 3 revolutions for every single revolution of the crank + driveshaft parasitic loss.

2) the fact that the vortech supercharger 'mists' oil into it's drive assembly. Misting doesn't happen when motoroil is thick as molasses.

I'm running 0w oil, and the car does start down to -30 (with windchill)... but not happily. You're not even sure the supercharger is running until the car is warmed up and the whistling comes back... but it appears to run. Only time will tell if i'm doing real damage to the supercharger, but right now, things seem positive.

Would I do the vortech again if given the chance? I dunno.. if it was a competent shop, maybe, with 2 big differences:

1) move the battery to the back
2) move the filter up a little bit.. maybe to where the battery tray was, with a splash shield.

There's nothing wrong with being worried about the daily driveability of an aftermarket component (like superchargers). Some will pass it off as unecessary worry, but would you like to spend $4000 on something for your daily driver that's going to leave you stranded in the cold back country?
darkpuppet,Jan 24 2005, 05:29 PM Wrote:BerinG:

The tunes are adaptive.  You can add/remove timing at all sorts of temperatures.  Build a tune that will run good hot, and you'll be safe when cold (though you can tune in a bit more performance at low temps).

That's the GREAT thing about the EECV

but what exacly is "adaptive".. even when you are dyno tuning, you are not in the same conditions as when you are actually driving it.. even at the same temp.. and i mean the values are set values.. you dont have a table for 10*, then anotehr table for 20* etc.. you know what i mean? im just wondering

what exacly adapts

sorry going off topic..

be aware, fees for getting it shipped here from CFM.. triple gauge pillar cost me more like 125% than the actual cost caus of fees.. id like to know how much for the S/C shipped including everything.. :blink:

Steeda: how much ?
BerinG,Jan 25 2005, 02:35 PM Wrote:
darkpuppet,Jan 24 2005, 05:29 PM Wrote:BerinG:

The tunes are adaptive.  You can add/remove timing at all sorts of temperatures.  Build a tune that will run good hot, and you'll be safe when cold (though you can tune in a bit more performance at low temps).

That's the GREAT thing about the EECV

but what exacly is "adaptive".. even when you are dyno tuning, you are not in the same conditions as when you are actually driving it.. even at the same temp.. and i mean the values are set values.. you dont have a table for 10*, then anotehr table for 20* etc.. you know what i mean? im just wondering

what exacly adapts

sorry going off topic..

be aware, fees for getting it shipped here from CFM.. triple gauge pillar cost me more like 125% than the actual cost caus of fees.. id like to know how much for the S/C shipped including everything.. :blink:

Steeda: how much ?
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there are many things that allow you to tune spark so it's safe for all conditions:

baseline knock spark table - You set the max spark with no modifiers (20C IAT, and 200 ECT) that the engine can run before experiencing knock

ECT spark modifier - you can add/remove spark at given load values depending on given coolant temps. So when the engine is running hotter, you remove spark... or if it's super cold, you can add spark.

ACT spark modifier - like ECT, you can add/remove spark for given intake air temps at given loads. If it's cooler, you can add spark, if it's hotter, you can remove spark.

Max Spark - this is the maximum amount of spark you will ever run. Just lets't the engine know that regardless of what numbers you come up with there is a maximum amount of spark you can run

spark adder for open loop - when in open loop, running richer fuel means you can run more spark. Add that in here.

max allowed spark on cold start - specify maximum spark for cold starts...

the EECV will grab all the values it needs and come up with a spark required for the current ECT, ACT, and load values. This allows the engine to 'adapt' to many temperature ranges, and why there's no reason to not have a tune work well in cooler weather.
thanks.. good post!!!