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Full Version: I Have The Turbo Bug
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Well after watching Puppet throw down some good numbers my brain has been working.

I am thinking of doing a turbo Jay style.

The pros:

I have a shop and a bender I can use
I can get all the piping at cost
Puppet and I can blow up the car together (I mean try and tune it)

The cons:

I need to learn how to weld
I need to learn more in general

I know maximum boost is a decent book I have heard this tonnes of times. But I wonder where else I can get more knowledge. Any suggestions?

Once I have a good knowledge base on the subject I figure I can start learning how to weld. The shop next door I know will let me use their facilities (muffler shop) just wondering if it is worth taking a welding course or just learn from them.

How long does it take to pick up welding, now I mean to have some quality welds?

I figure why pay someone to build me a turbo when all I have to do is get off my fat lazy ass...I don't know though will I have biten off more than I can chew?

Comments welcome
DO IT!

I've been taking it REALLY slow. Been buying my parts slowly, learning slowly....I also wanted to learn how to weld, but figured since this is my first time doing such a project like this I would let somebody with a little more experience handle it. I've picked up most of my parts and just waiting for the next paycheque to buy the SCT s**t, and for JGS to send me my Stage 2 header. I've been buying turbo parts for the past year and a half. :lol: Thats how slow I've been taking it. I wish i could just slap everything on, but I've got soooo much more to learn and read on...

My advice is go for it, take your time and soak all the information you can. If you need any links to anything for parts and such, let me know, I can show you where to go for pretty much your whole kit. Just got some NICE SS Oil lines....whole kit with oil pan bung for $160.00 CND.....not bad at all.
Flofocus,Jun 9 2004, 12:53 PM Wrote:Just got some NICE SS Oil lines....whole kit with oil pan bung for $160.00 CND.....not bad at all.
so you're not all getho like me hehehe

when you starting that thing? still ordering from JGS.. might have been easier using my guy ;) 2 turbo manifold same time...FINE.. be that way
Your guy is VERY hard to get a hold of.....well for me anyways. I would have gone that route but time is running out since I want everything on my car and running by the end of july.
like i said though.. he doesnt answer the phone when he works.. thats why you need to fax him.. (same number) and he'll get back to ya.. im just kidding around anyway.. you can spend all the hundred dollars you want hahaha
Holy hijacking BATMAN ;)
Paparoach,Jun 9 2004, 09:22 AM Wrote:Holy hijacking BATMAN ;)
Sorry....get back on topic here....dont know if you've seen this post by Jay on Focaljet a while back....helped find all the parts I was looking for.

http://www.focaljet.com/ubbthreads/showfla...true#Post367569
That is a great start...thanks.

Funny thing I know what most of what those parts do...but when we start talking specifics like trim etc....I am lost, wow do I ever feel like a newb again.

Good feeling though.
Paparoach,Jun 9 2004, 01:22 PM Wrote:Holy hijacking BATMAN ;)
hahaha sorry man.. still has to do with turbo at least..

you too will be needing a turbo manifold.. as for the welding.. just look at how they do it (don't look naked eye.. you'll lose your eyes)

Then you can just practice on some other pieces.. probably won't do my exhaust manifold caus it needs to be made better to support the heat etc... but the intake piping, ill probably do with a friend of mine..

just read up on fj (not to advertise) but just go step by step, on how everything works and where it should be.. you'll get the idea and then you can join our "Getho Tuning Club" (banners anyone?)

*edit... trim is the least of your concern i'm thinking.. get a decent sized turbo and if you can find a flow sheet of it.. you can just post it up and someone will be abel to tell ya if its a god turbo for our applications
Starting to read once again on the jet...last time I read the jet was wow a long time ago...and the changes in FI is amazing.

Just started to learn about compressor maps....I guess this is how I choose a turbo?

Wow overwhelming....stop breath I know I know
you got it ;)

or you can just use common ones that people have already tried.. less hassle
Okay reading about compressor maps...slowly sinking in.

One little question though..does anyone know the VE or Volumetric Efficiency of our engine.

I know I could just use what everyone is saying but I just need to be sure for myself....

I am having a ball....this is so much fun :D
Paparoach,Jun 9 2004, 11:34 AM Wrote:One little question though..does anyone know the VE or Volumetric Efficiency of our engine.
Seems like after more reading VE isn't very simple to figure out.....

Keeps reading
This is what you used Jay?

<a href='http://64.225.76.178/catalog/compmaps/Fig4.gif'>[Image: Fig4.gif]</a>

The X-axis is lb/min right?
The Y-axis is the ratio of air pressure leaving to the turbo to the air pressure entering right?

So that turbo can push up to 21 psi top end correct?

Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi correct?
Jay was big help told me that compressor maps are dumb... :lol:

Oh well but Jay did make sure to tell me to get a T3 .60/.63. I have read that this is the best one for our car but I just wanted to know how we get to that conclusion using compressor maps.

Oh well :(
I am the only one posting and this is fun...kinda like talking to myself.
Which isn't something new.... :lol:

So on to the next question:

I noticed Jay that you used a BOV and not a CBV everything so far I have read as mentioned that a BOV could cause you to run lean because it is blown to the atmosphere. Is there a reason you didn't use a CBV? This just isn't for Jay but for anyone that know the answer to this.

Thanks
Paparoach,Jun 9 2004, 05:44 PM Wrote:Jay was big help told me that compressor maps are dumb... :lol:

Oh well but Jay did make sure to tell me to get a T3 .60/.63. I have read that this is the best one for our car but I just wanted to know how we get to that conclusion using compressor maps.

Oh well :(
You don't need to really worry about the compressor map because all the other people before you have done all the heavy research.

the 60 trim is nice, but I need to read up a bit more.. maybe a disco potato is in your future :P
Actually no.. a BOV would caus you to run rich caus you blow calculated air (that passed through the maf) out in the atmosphere.. so you are getting more fuel in ..
Paparoach,Jun 9 2004, 06:14 PM Wrote:I am the only one posting and this is fun...kinda like talking to myself.
Which isn't something new.... :lol:

So on to the next question:

I noticed Jay that you used a BOV and not a CBV everything so far I have read as mentioned that a BOV could cause you to run lean because it is blown to the atmosphere. Is there a reason you didn't use a CBV? This just isn't for Jay but for anyone that know the answer to this.

Thanks
If you are using a draw-thru MAF (MAF located before the compressor), it is highly recommended to use a diverter Bypass.. .put excess air back in front of the compressor wheel. That will keep the MAF readings correct, and your car won't run rich between shifts.

If you have a honduh, or something that uses a blow-thru, or MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), you can use a blow-off to purge excess air and get your cool PHFFFFFSHHT sound... the reason being that the MAP/MAF won't read pressure that hasn't reached it yet anyways.

It's once that air has passed the MAF you really don't want to do anything to that air other than let it into the engine.
darkpuppet,Jun 9 2004, 06:23 PM Wrote:
Paparoach,Jun 9 2004, 06:14 PM Wrote:I am the only one posting and this is fun...kinda like talking to myself.
Which isn't something new.... :lol:

So on to the next question:

I noticed Jay that you used a BOV and not a CBV everything so far I have read as mentioned that a BOV could cause you to run lean because it is blown to the atmosphere.&nbsp; Is there a reason you didn't use a CBV? This just isn't for Jay but for anyone that know the answer to this.

Thanks
If you are using a draw-thru MAF (MAF located before the compressor), it is highly recommended to use a diverter Bypass.. .put excess air back in front of the compressor wheel. That will keep the MAF readings correct, and your car won't run rich between shifts.

If you have a honduh, or something that uses a blow-thru, or MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), you can use a blow-off to purge excess air and get your cool PHFFFFFSHHT sound... the reason being that the MAP/MAF won't read pressure that hasn't reached it yet anyways.

It's once that air has passed the MAF you really don't want to do anything to that air other than let it into the engine.
alot of dsms run that way (bov) and it works ok.. they just run rich between shift.. by-pass is always the best route if you can do itcaus it just reroutes the air back to the intakeso you dont actually &quot;lose&quot; air and/or flow velocity..

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