02-05-2011, 06:06 AM
Pages: 1 2
02-05-2011, 06:53 AM
(01-30-2011, 02:46 PM)NefCanuck Wrote: [ -> ]Given the road conditions, if you *have* to run the summer tire I would say run it at the back, because mixing / matching tires on the drive wheels is a recipe for disaster AFAIK.
NefCanuck
I'd run the summer tire at the front.
02-15-2011, 03:22 AM
all parts the car needs are as follows;
rear drum assembly (with bearing pressed in)
front left outer tie rod end (I'm gunna have canadian tire do this)
stabilizer bar endlinks ~ what ones should I get?
body shield ~ there's apparently 3 pieces to this?
front bumper cover, grill, fog light ~ already have a bumper lined up, just need grill and fog lights.
lower rad support needs to be bent forwards because it's currently pushed back and is slightly pinching a rad hose (it goes up as an L but it looks like a < now)
an alignment
any extra hardware that i might need
Anyone got any recommendations? I am skipping changing my AC Condenser, its bent not cracked or broken.
Also, I have a haynes manual. I don't know how much that will help when it comes to things like bending a rad support or replacing the body shield. Has anyone ever done either and can give me tips?
I haven't been able to find a place yet to do the work to my car but I'm thinking I might try and use the underground parking garage at school - its heated and there's power plugs down there that may have power (I'd check this before hand. Didn't have anything on me at the time when I was there).
Anyway, I wanna get this stuff done with sooner than later.
rear drum assembly (with bearing pressed in)
front left outer tie rod end (I'm gunna have canadian tire do this)
stabilizer bar endlinks ~ what ones should I get?
body shield ~ there's apparently 3 pieces to this?
front bumper cover, grill, fog light ~ already have a bumper lined up, just need grill and fog lights.
lower rad support needs to be bent forwards because it's currently pushed back and is slightly pinching a rad hose (it goes up as an L but it looks like a < now)
an alignment
any extra hardware that i might need
Anyone got any recommendations? I am skipping changing my AC Condenser, its bent not cracked or broken.
Also, I have a haynes manual. I don't know how much that will help when it comes to things like bending a rad support or replacing the body shield. Has anyone ever done either and can give me tips?
I haven't been able to find a place yet to do the work to my car but I'm thinking I might try and use the underground parking garage at school - its heated and there's power plugs down there that may have power (I'd check this before hand. Didn't have anything on me at the time when I was there).
Anyway, I wanna get this stuff done with sooner than later.
02-15-2011, 06:19 AM
For sway bar links, some folks recommend the MOOG ones. They are greasable, and so should outlast the factory items:
MOOG Part # K80066 {Sway Bar Link Kit}. Apparently Rockauto.com has them. I'm sure there is a Canadian source too.
(If you choose to get the ford parts, be sure to buy new nuts, because the thread pitch is different on the replacement parts)
Tie Rod ends are not difficult to replace. First, clean up the threads on the steering arm/rod (from the rack) and then use two wrenches to slightly back off the nut that locks the outer tie rod end to the rod. The hard part is separating the old tie rod end from the "upright" (hub carrier). Personally, I use a short handled 4-lb sledge hammer. I back the nut off until it is flush with the end of the threads, and then give it one or two good hits with the sledge. It usually pops right off. Foci are easier than some, because the nut is on top, so you are swinging the sledge down. You can improve the odds by sticking a jack stand under the hub carrier before you hit it. There also is a special tool for this, called a pickle fork, but the sledge has worked for me on a lot of Fords.
I'm not sure about the rad support. Sometimes such things can be bent back just with a good 2X4 or a pair of giant (20 inch) water pump pliers. Sometimes heat is required to soften the metal first. I'm sure other folks on this list have real experience with that part, I do not.
If you can get into a heated underground parking, that would be great. You may want to plan the work in phases, so you can keep the car drivable.
Bob
MOOG Part # K80066 {Sway Bar Link Kit}. Apparently Rockauto.com has them. I'm sure there is a Canadian source too.
(If you choose to get the ford parts, be sure to buy new nuts, because the thread pitch is different on the replacement parts)
Tie Rod ends are not difficult to replace. First, clean up the threads on the steering arm/rod (from the rack) and then use two wrenches to slightly back off the nut that locks the outer tie rod end to the rod. The hard part is separating the old tie rod end from the "upright" (hub carrier). Personally, I use a short handled 4-lb sledge hammer. I back the nut off until it is flush with the end of the threads, and then give it one or two good hits with the sledge. It usually pops right off. Foci are easier than some, because the nut is on top, so you are swinging the sledge down. You can improve the odds by sticking a jack stand under the hub carrier before you hit it. There also is a special tool for this, called a pickle fork, but the sledge has worked for me on a lot of Fords.
I'm not sure about the rad support. Sometimes such things can be bent back just with a good 2X4 or a pair of giant (20 inch) water pump pliers. Sometimes heat is required to soften the metal first. I'm sure other folks on this list have real experience with that part, I do not.
If you can get into a heated underground parking, that would be great. You may want to plan the work in phases, so you can keep the car drivable.
Bob
02-15-2011, 10:50 AM
I'd have to see pictures to know what you're talking about for the tie rod end.
The reason I was going to have crappy tire do it for me is because won't the car need an alignment pretty much right after?
And good idea on the phases, my plan was originally park the car friday evening and get to it from saturday through until sunday, figuring that would give me plenty of time.
edit: looked up tie rod ends, yeah it's not that complicated at all. I think I'll tackle this one too then.
The reason I was going to have crappy tire do it for me is because won't the car need an alignment pretty much right after?
And good idea on the phases, my plan was originally park the car friday evening and get to it from saturday through until sunday, figuring that would give me plenty of time.
edit: looked up tie rod ends, yeah it's not that complicated at all. I think I'll tackle this one too then.
02-15-2011, 11:29 PM
Regarding the alignment, as long as you don't move the locking nut too far (as in: just move it so it is no longer locked to the tie rod end, maybe a 1/16 of a turn) then the alignment usually won't be horrible once you install the new piece. Yes, you will want to get it aligned, but it certainly would be drivable for a few days without chewing the tires.
Bob
Bob
Pages: 1 2