Its no secret that out Focus's are pretty much rust magnets. No other 2000-2004 cars are as rusty as ours...
That said I want to get my car rustproofed again this year. I tried a small guy last year but he did a piss poor job and really only sprayed in the doors, trunk lid. Sure the two pain points of the car but the rockers are typically what go first and I have my doubts he hit those at all.
Right now I'm leaning towards Krown.... any cheaper options out there that do a good job?
(10-05-2011, 10:36 PM)hardk0re Wrote: [ -> ]Its no secret that out Focus's are pretty much rust magnets. No other 2000-2004 cars are as rusty as ours...
That said I want to get my car rustproofed again this year. I tried a small guy last year but he did a piss poor job and really only sprayed in the doors, trunk lid. Sure the two pain points of the car but the rockers are typically what go first and I have my doubts he hit those at all.
Right now I'm leaning towards Krown.... any cheaper options out there that do a good job?
My ex brother in law started the Krown franchise here in Brampton - he's an accountant and did a lot of research before buying the franchise and he believes that Krown is far and away the best ... but as you alluded to, it all boils down to the installer. Doesn't matter how good the product is if it's not applied right.
we only krown our cars at my house and so far there have been no issues. We had a 94 exploder and up until the point we got rid of it (2010) the only rust was on the bottom seem of the drivers door and a bubble right behind the gas tank on the Q panel (usually its a hole by then LOL). Our 96 exploder is still going strong and has ZERO rust anywhere, same with my old 97 Dakota b4 I sold that 2. my fofo is the only one starting to rust (rad cradle, rear sub frame) cuz the previous owner never had it sprayed, but the krown fluid has slowed the spread to crawling pace now
we need a gb on rustproofing
I know Krown Lakeshore does discounts for The Toronto Mazda 3 club, you may want to try them (car club friendly) and they seem to really well reviewed by those on the forum
David
Igor or Bobby at Krown Lakeshore. Tell them Kevin at Keystone sent you.
their rust proofing job is top quality as far as i heard of.
but never ever get anything done related to electronics.
Our 2009 was done initially when new and every year since.
No spots yet.
I did the 01 SPI at the Ford dealer where I had bought it. For where they sprayed, it was good. They never got the trunklid area so that was a problem down the road. The 07 ZX5 was done in the same fashion (sticky yellow stuff) but I didn't keep it long enough to know if it was going to work as well for that ride. I'm running one of those rust modules on the 08 Escape with winter #4 upcoming. It looks decent, no real rust anywhere. Not sure if you can switch over to it, but it might be looking into as it was the same cost as one year's worth of rust-proofing from the dealer.
ive always heard those electronic rust things are gimmicks - it'll rust anyway.
I've only seen one, and in fact it was on a car that was all rusty. Esp rusty around where this electronic box was....
I'll post pics of the Escape's underbody. It's really holding well so far. 103K and counting.
(10-14-2011, 07:09 AM)hardk0re Wrote: [ -> ]I've only seen one, and in fact it was on a car that was all rusty. Esp rusty around where this electronic box was....
the concept is sound, and in fact it is used in a lot of marine applications ... there is a recent case of US warships made in Australia where that type of corrosion prevention system was purposely left off, and now the ships are literally falling apart just a few years after being built.
(10-15-2011, 02:46 AM)ZTWsquared Wrote: [ -> ] (10-14-2011, 07:09 AM)hardk0re Wrote: [ -> ]I've only seen one, and in fact it was on a car that was all rusty. Esp rusty around where this electronic box was....
the concept is sound, and in fact it is used in a lot of marine applications ... there is a recent case of US warships made in Australia where that type of corrosion prevention system was purposely left off, and now the ships are literally falling apart just a few years after being built.
it must be diffferent electronic rust proofer then.
all ive seen so far is, it detects resistance and turn on warning red light. but that is hardly worked.
ive seen multiple hundred of them installed in engine bay and all i see is rust and still green light stayed on.
and for the people who never do maintanace on their own, they wont even notice it until hoods get opened by mechanics.
from what I've read, whatever it is hooked up to has to be sitting in water for it to work properly. That would explain why it works so well in marine applications
(10-15-2011, 02:18 AM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: [ -> ]I'll post pics of the Escape's underbody. It's really holding well so far. 103K and counting.
That could be the factory rust proofing. My sisters 2006 golf has never been sprayed, or have one of these devices installed and its extremely clean underneath, no rust whatsoever.
Actually, it's called "galvanic action".
Put on your science caps.
The reason why iron rusts is (IIRC) because iron (Fe) gives up electrons and ioniozes into Fe+ which then combines with oxygen (air) and hydroxide ions (OH-) in water (liquid or airborn) to create Fe(OH)^3 (rust). Take this and immerse it into a salt solution (an electrolyte), and it speeds the process.
This is "galvanic action", which is basically the same principle that batteries run on. This electron movement creates an electron flow from negative to positive (or conventional current flow from positive to negative).
The premise behind rust-inhibiting devices is to continually bombard the iron with electrons so that iron stays un-ionized (Fe) so it can't combine with the oxygen and hydrozide ions so rust doesn't form.
This is the kicker. In order for the electrons to flow, it needs to create a circuit; just like flicking a light switch turning off a light, you are breaking the circuit path stopping electron flow.
Well, in order for the electrons to flow in rust inhibitors, it has to create a path. But, where? Every sharp edge of steel in a car provides a jump-off point for free electrons. That's why once rust starts it accelerates because the "roughness" of rust is like tiny little peaks that leak electrons faster. So no matter what, there will be spots where these iron ions exist to form rust.
So ... what to do? Well, just like in high school, if you want to get laid, you ask out the "easy girl", the one that gives it up more readily than the others. Chemically, this is called a "sacrificial anode". What you do is introduce something in the circuit that gives up its electrons more readily than the iron. This can be magnesium, aluminum, or various other metals. That way, when it comes to oxidation it eats up the sacrificial anode (key word "sacrificed") which is like the easy girl and leaves the iron (the tease) alone.
Now, in order for the sacrificial anode to work best, it's always better to dip it into an electrolyte like say, salt water. THAT'S why it's extensively used in marine applications, because the ship (or boat) is always in contact with water. The sacrificial anodes need to be periodically replaced as they rot out. In many ships/boats you don't have to even electrify the hull because the galvanic reaction creates its own electricity which charges the hull.
In a car, though, you aren't constantly in contact with water, there is no sacrificial anode in the system that you replace. So while you may get a very small real benefit, the placebo effect is much greater.
