Yep it's that pesky seized rotor problem.
I need to change the front brake pads + rotors. Rotors wont come off. Dont want to use BFH (hammer) to bang it off -scared of bearing damage!
Can a puller be rented to do this? Is there another safe way? So bloody frustrating!
My local shop wants $160.00 to do the labour for front brakes (I have parts already). That seems steep but I know it's the going rate.
It's a 2006 ZXW with original brakes/pads 63000kms
Had issue on my wives escape, the only thing was BFRH. Big $#$$# Rubber Mallot, gave it some serious whacks and it came loose, the other option is yeah use a large puller on it (available @ princess auto), buy it pull off the rotor then return it.
Spray lots of Krown around the hub and rotor.. few good whacks with a hammer and it should come right off.. put some antiseize or something around the hub where the rotor sits so next time its not soo bad changing them.
If you compare the force of hitting a pothole with the weight of the car on that bearing, I'd say that is significantly more force then any blows you'll develop with a hammer. I tapped mine off with a sledgehammer rather then swinging wildly with a smaller hammer.
I used a pry bar as when my went south the rotors were toast too as I needed to do the brakes at the time too
hay my friend just had this same prob on his escape and he found a trick on you tube were a guy put 2 bolts in the back of the rotor to pop it of and it worked very well and hammered the a chunk out of his rotor with bfh but the bolts got it off so good luck
the bolt method will work quite well as long as the rotors have the holes to do this. some can be completely solid. a hammer by the book isnt recommended but as someone said before, think of on average a focus could weight roughly 2600lbs/4 wheels, 650lbs of weight minimum not to mention momentum and the rest of force, id think youd break the rotor before greatly disturbing that bearing...
160 w/ you supplying parts isnt the worst. shops make some markup on parts as well, so you'll get a full 2hr rate pretty easily...
The problem usually is rust that forms between the center hub and rotor. Wire brush really well around the center hub -- the rust expands and keeps the rotor from sliding off. Spray a little liquid wrench (penetrating oil) in the stud holes. and around the center hub, let it sit for an hour. Then use a pair of hammers hitting on opposite sides to "rock the rotor off".
When you re-assemble use a thin coat of silver anti-seize between the hub and the backing plate (the part the lugs are attached to) and the rotor so next time you don't have the same problem. Just keep the stuff away from the braking surfaces.
also be ready for the excess to sling off when you start driving.
I had that issue before. PITA but I got it off eventually by using all kinds of lubricants.
And yean use Anti-sieze after......"I put that S%#@ on everything."
(12-05-2011, 05:49 AM)Mystake Wrote: [ -> ]also be ready for the excess to sling off when you start driving.
If you're talking about anti-seize, I mean like I said, a "thin coat". Brush a dab on and smear it it around with a paper towel. If the parts are still silver it's covered enough. I've never had any sling off.
(12-05-2011, 09:11 AM)OAC_Sparky Wrote: [ -> ] (12-05-2011, 05:49 AM)Mystake Wrote: [ -> ]also be ready for the excess to sling off when you start driving.
If you're talking about anti-seize, I mean like I said, a "thin coat". Brush a dab on and smear it it around with a paper towel. If the parts are still silver it's covered enough. I've never had any sling off.
Ditto - we're talking about the thinnest of films here ... even when torqued down nothing will squeeze out ... it's also good to brush a thin film on the inside of the rim where it meets the rotor, for the same reason.
Penetrating fluid. let soak. Grab a cloth or something drape it over the assembly and tap the Rotor with a hammer or mallet in different places till you break the Rust seal. before you install the new 1's hit it with some gritty sand paper to clean up the hub where the rotor seats.
your not gonna break anything by hammering the s**t out of the old rotor. just dont miss.
Thanks all.
I'm just gonna take it to the shop. Time is too precious for me with a 4 y/o and 7month baby, near impossible to get more than 2hours of peace and quiet on a weekend to do car stuff. And there's no way I can do all this in a single car garage efficiently and undisturbed in less than 2 hours (thanks to the seized rotors and kiddies)!
I had this problem on my Protege5 before (rear rotors). And slammed it like crazy with a regular hammer and rubber one. They never budged. Don't see where to get penetrating oil, sprays in there. The studs poke out of the rotor and there's no real access to get it to seep into the hub interface behind the rotor face.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs
That little bolt kit is now in my tool box. Such a great trick, had to do it on my neighbors HHR, and my fathers jetta.
This will work with the focus for sure. Its going to get tough at the end, but once you start hearing that SNAP!, you know you're almost done....
nice trick. however be CAREFULL as the focus(non SVT) has threaded brackets rather than threaded calipers! Easy to foul your threads using this method...
I've never tried the bolt trick... but I could see it working. The threads on the torque bracket will hopefully be tough enough.
Heat always helps . If you have access to a torch heat up the rotor around the hub and then hammer it off . Also spraying penetrating fluid on the back of the rotor where it sits on the hub and leave it a few hours , even til next day if you don't have a torch handy .
yeah, heat wont do anything for this job though. When we did the HHR, we used the torch, hammers, sledges, PB blaster soaked overnight, every freakin impact chisel you could think of...man...what a job.
Thats why when it came to my fathers seized rotors on his VW, we didnt even screw around - took out the bolts right away and saved tons of time.