So I am up north using Dial Up :angry: and I tried to get my stock system off today. I guess after 8 years of service, road salt and heat and cool cycles the bolts at the rear of the flex are pretty much unserviceable. The nuts are so rusted they are pretty much frozen tight.
What would be the best way to remove these with causing to much damage to the flex? Also if I did damage the flex I am pretty sure that I would run into the same problem at the Cat.
I was really looking forward to the sound of running down HWY 11 with my new system. I guess I will have to wait until I get back to the city and get some better tools or assistance to get this portion of my project complete. Oh Well. Dammit!!!
you sure are in a tight spot kev, maybe mbrp themselves can help you out there?
cut off the nuts, smash em with a hammer rip the skank outta there!
that is if you have a sawzall, if not, home depot rents and will cost you like 15$ for something decent with a metal blade. only cost me 50$ for a massive demolition drill sooo....
Cutting the nuts wont cause any damage to flex just cut on the side you are replacing whether it is the heads or the nuts doesnt matter to much. even if you slip, a slip wont slice the exhaust off.
good luck!
Where are you at? Anywhere close to North Bay?
Oscar The Grouch,Mar 13 2010, 11:26 PM Wrote:Where are you at? Anywhere close to North Bay?
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IIRC he's somewhere north of Huntsville not too far from Algonquin - with dial-up only.
Also if you can.. applying heat with say a torch to the nut will expand the metal and should make it easier to remove. Plan 2 torch the nuts off(I love this way)
when i put my header on a month ago i had the same problem i just cut the pipe right beside the flange. i didnt have to reuse the flex tho.
I had to cut the bolts off....replaced them with new ones
but usually yes they are seized up
Ok back in the city with the stock exhaust on the car and the MBRP in the hatch. The nuts on the flange at the mid pipe and flex are almost non-existant. They are so rusted I could barely get a socket to grab on them. Also working on the garage floor with the car on stands all the way to the top still didn't leave me much room to get a breaker bar under there. I do have a sawzall, but I don't think I will have enough room to get under there to use it. Maybe a grinder would be a better option, grind the heads on the bolts or get at the other side and take the nuts off and then just pound them through.
I do have new nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers, and gaskets. But the jack and stands are my fathers and are up north. So I may have to go to Princess Auto and get a new set. I do have a small pump jack but it isn't big enough to get the car high enough.
Anybody have a suggestion?
BTW. I was in Kearney, which is about 40 minutes East of HWY 11 @ Burks Falls.
hit them with liquid wrench and a torch...
and if you had a dremel and a solid supply of cut-off wheels, you could do the work just as well... granted you'll have to hold the dremel up longer as the wheels don't cut that fast.
oh, and crappy tire had their electric impact wrench on sale for $50... it should have enough torque to work the bolts loose -- (but not so much torque that your hands won't go numb first)
I have a simple solution. Pay to have it done. No new jack stands needed, no PITA, just easy peasy.
But I'd just hand the keys to the boy and he'd come home from work and it would be done, so what do I know.
meford4u,Mar 14 2010, 04:17 PM Wrote:I have a simple solution. Pay to have it done. No new jack stands needed, no PITA, just easy peasy.
But I'd just hand the keys to the boy and he'd come home from work and it would be done, so what do I know.
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yeah... you and the boy do solid work.
darkpuppet,Mar 14 2010, 03:19 PM Wrote:meford4u,Mar 14 2010, 04:17 PM Wrote:I have a simple solution.ÃÂ Pay to have it done.ÃÂ No new jack stands needed, no PITA, just easy peasy.
But I'd just hand the keys to the boy and he'd come home from work and it would be done, so what do I know.
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yeah... you and the boy do solid work.
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You should know after we installed your pod..........and then you sold the car.
Brilliant.
It should only take 30 minutes for a half decent shop to do... Cut the old one off, bolt the new one on. That's all it took for mine.
darkpuppet,Mar 14 2010, 08:17 PM Wrote:oh, and crappy tire had their electric impact wrench on sale for $50... it should have enough torque to work the bolts loose -- (but not so much torque that your hands won't go numb first)
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lol i bought that when i put my header on too. worked pretty solid.
travisb,Mar 15 2010, 12:40 AM Wrote:darkpuppet,Mar 14 2010, 08:17 PM Wrote:oh, and crappy tire had their electric impact wrench on sale for $50... it should have enough torque to work the bolts loose -- (but not so much torque that your hands won't go numb first)
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lol i bought that when i put my header on too. worked pretty solid.
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Yeah they are back up over $100. I can justify that ATM. :(
Anybody want to help a brother out?
Tons-Of-Tools has a 4 1/2" angle grinder on for $29.99. I may pick that up on my way home from work one night this week and just grind the bastards off. I have new hardware anyways.
jack it up higher and use the sawsall on the bolts.
Frig, if Jay and myself can weld up a turbo kit in 2 days with the car on jacks, you should be able to change an exahust out!! :P
If I wasn't sick, I'd be there with ya.
Todd aka torradan is coming over tomorrow night to give me a hand. I am sick too. Fighting off a cold like mad. Meddicated to the MAX. Woot Woot!!!!