08-05-2012, 08:25 AM
Hey,
For that last little while I have been collecting some peices to put together a built head for my 2.0L Duratec. I finally installed it last weekend and it runs strong and sounds mean. Or as Jamie would say, "it sounds greasy." lol
From this
To this
I had the head at a machine shop shaving the head and seating the vlaves for me.
First off jack the car up and put it on stands. Take out the Headlights and remove the front top support. It's held in by a few 10mm bolts here and there. Not hard at all.
Then drain the coolant rad and prepare it for removal.
While under the car, remove the plastic shield that covers the Under Drive Pulley. There is 2 bolts there for that. But mine broke off so I never put it back on...
Start to remove everything that you can at this point. But make sure to only remove what needs to be removed lol. Like Intake, Coolant Tank, disconect lines and all wires that are in sight.
Next start taking off the the Valve Cover. Loosen all the bolts on the cover but do not take them out of the head. They are a nut on stud type and they are all ready set to the perfect height for the best seal. Also when lifting the covers all, use patience and becareful not to chip the head or crack the plastic cover!!!
Next remove the Injectors and fuel rail. If you happen to break teh cheap plastic clips like I always do, don't worry. You can use a small zip tie to make the lines seal when installing it.
This is were is gets fun... Take one of the bolts from the Coilpacks and insert it into the hole on the UDP. Just screw the bolt in by hand and make sure it doesn't come out.
Then insert the Camshaft Timing Bar into the rear of the Camshafts. You may have to rotate the UDP in order to get them to line up properly.
Now since everthing is locked in Top Dead Center for 1st and 4th Cylinder, we can start the real tear down. There are a couple of different ways to do this. I started by taking the cams out first. Remove the exhaust Camshaft Bolt. Slide the chain off and leave it for now.
Now start removing the Camshafts. Start by taking the middle holder and work you way out from the center. When loosening the bolts make sure you do an even amount of thread removal on each holders per each bolt. When the holders are off place then aside in the location that came off and even the same side they were facing on the head as well.
Next, take off the Belt, Unbolt the PowerSteering pump and unbolt the A/C Compressor. The A/C is 3 bolts and is very simple. The power steering can be tricky. You may need to remove the hardline on the bottom of it like I did. Le the fluid drain and just replace with new fluids later. Also, try not to break the housing on the Power Steering either...
Now remove the Passenger Side Engine Mount. Place a floor jack under the oil pan to support the engine and by using a floor jack it will make it easy to raise and lower the engine during installation or removal of parts.
I'm missing some pictures so use your imagination... Remove the 7 nuts/studs on the exhaust manifold and the top nut and stud on the alternator. After that remove the head bolts by using a large Trox bit. Crappy tire sells a set for $20. I had to purchase this mid tear down lol. Also remove the Intake Manifold and make sure to remember where all the connections go on it for vaccum.
Pull the head off and this is what you should see. There is about 1/8" of Carbon build up on the face of the cylinders. I used a buffer and some carbon cleaner to remove this.
Now is the time to install a new tensioner and timing chain gurides. Clean the surface of the block and lay down the head gasket. To save yourself troble with the chain and timing isuse just purchase a new tenssioner and install it with the pin in it. Only remover the pin chain is on all gears tightly.
Now install the EGR Sensor and Water distributor on the drivers side of the head. I use the more restrictive gasket on the EGR instead of the open gasket. Not sure which is for the 2.0L or 2.3L in te kit.
Well, put the head down gently and install all bolts of the exhaust and alternator. Along with installing the Head bolts too!
Now install the cams in the new head in reverse from taking them off. Start tightening from the center to the out side.
Installing the chain is a piece of cake. Make sure you loop the chain all around the crank, past the gears and over the intake gear. Have the ramander of the chain on the loose exhaust gear and by sliding the gear on the shaft while tightening the bolt for the gear will insure everything is lined up proper. Pull the pin and give it a little knock to pop the tenssioner rod out.
Since I had the cover off I gave it a little paint to match the head. Now use some Red Permatex Silicone on the Side Cover and install with a steady hand. Tighten all the bolts and make sure you don't miss any.
Install the Intake Manifold. I used new nicer looking Hex Key Bolts and then install the A/C and Power Steering Pump. From there you should be able to install the Belt back on the pulleys.
Hook up all the lines and cables you can at this point and set teh Valve Cover on a table to install the new Gaskets for it. Once the new gaskets are in, place on the head and tighten it up.
Install the engien mount and Coolant Tank and pretty much anything that is missing. If it is dirty, clean it up and ensure that everything is tight.
Aslong as everything was light up with the cams and timing you should be ready for a drive. Now I installed a set of Crane Stage 2 Cams and holy crap is it a rough idle. I'm waiting on a tune from Randy right now but as it stands my torque is back plus more and my horse power is up. It runs really rich and like s**t but I can't wait for it to be running like a champ. We will see what it hits on the Dyno in September!!
Any questions post up and I will try my best to answer them...
Also a big thanks to Ken for getting me parts and info that I needed. Thanks to Google, what would we do without Google lol. And a big thanks goes to my Father for buying sooo many odd tools, that it seems that I only have a use for. Until next time
For that last little while I have been collecting some peices to put together a built head for my 2.0L Duratec. I finally installed it last weekend and it runs strong and sounds mean. Or as Jamie would say, "it sounds greasy." lol
From this
To this
I had the head at a machine shop shaving the head and seating the vlaves for me.
First off jack the car up and put it on stands. Take out the Headlights and remove the front top support. It's held in by a few 10mm bolts here and there. Not hard at all.
Then drain the coolant rad and prepare it for removal.
While under the car, remove the plastic shield that covers the Under Drive Pulley. There is 2 bolts there for that. But mine broke off so I never put it back on...
Start to remove everything that you can at this point. But make sure to only remove what needs to be removed lol. Like Intake, Coolant Tank, disconect lines and all wires that are in sight.
Next start taking off the the Valve Cover. Loosen all the bolts on the cover but do not take them out of the head. They are a nut on stud type and they are all ready set to the perfect height for the best seal. Also when lifting the covers all, use patience and becareful not to chip the head or crack the plastic cover!!!
Next remove the Injectors and fuel rail. If you happen to break teh cheap plastic clips like I always do, don't worry. You can use a small zip tie to make the lines seal when installing it.
This is were is gets fun... Take one of the bolts from the Coilpacks and insert it into the hole on the UDP. Just screw the bolt in by hand and make sure it doesn't come out.
Then insert the Camshaft Timing Bar into the rear of the Camshafts. You may have to rotate the UDP in order to get them to line up properly.
Now since everthing is locked in Top Dead Center for 1st and 4th Cylinder, we can start the real tear down. There are a couple of different ways to do this. I started by taking the cams out first. Remove the exhaust Camshaft Bolt. Slide the chain off and leave it for now.
Now start removing the Camshafts. Start by taking the middle holder and work you way out from the center. When loosening the bolts make sure you do an even amount of thread removal on each holders per each bolt. When the holders are off place then aside in the location that came off and even the same side they were facing on the head as well.
Next, take off the Belt, Unbolt the PowerSteering pump and unbolt the A/C Compressor. The A/C is 3 bolts and is very simple. The power steering can be tricky. You may need to remove the hardline on the bottom of it like I did. Le the fluid drain and just replace with new fluids later. Also, try not to break the housing on the Power Steering either...
Now remove the Passenger Side Engine Mount. Place a floor jack under the oil pan to support the engine and by using a floor jack it will make it easy to raise and lower the engine during installation or removal of parts.
I'm missing some pictures so use your imagination... Remove the 7 nuts/studs on the exhaust manifold and the top nut and stud on the alternator. After that remove the head bolts by using a large Trox bit. Crappy tire sells a set for $20. I had to purchase this mid tear down lol. Also remove the Intake Manifold and make sure to remember where all the connections go on it for vaccum.
Pull the head off and this is what you should see. There is about 1/8" of Carbon build up on the face of the cylinders. I used a buffer and some carbon cleaner to remove this.
Now is the time to install a new tensioner and timing chain gurides. Clean the surface of the block and lay down the head gasket. To save yourself troble with the chain and timing isuse just purchase a new tenssioner and install it with the pin in it. Only remover the pin chain is on all gears tightly.
Now install the EGR Sensor and Water distributor on the drivers side of the head. I use the more restrictive gasket on the EGR instead of the open gasket. Not sure which is for the 2.0L or 2.3L in te kit.
Well, put the head down gently and install all bolts of the exhaust and alternator. Along with installing the Head bolts too!
Now install the cams in the new head in reverse from taking them off. Start tightening from the center to the out side.
Installing the chain is a piece of cake. Make sure you loop the chain all around the crank, past the gears and over the intake gear. Have the ramander of the chain on the loose exhaust gear and by sliding the gear on the shaft while tightening the bolt for the gear will insure everything is lined up proper. Pull the pin and give it a little knock to pop the tenssioner rod out.
Since I had the cover off I gave it a little paint to match the head. Now use some Red Permatex Silicone on the Side Cover and install with a steady hand. Tighten all the bolts and make sure you don't miss any.
Install the Intake Manifold. I used new nicer looking Hex Key Bolts and then install the A/C and Power Steering Pump. From there you should be able to install the Belt back on the pulleys.
Hook up all the lines and cables you can at this point and set teh Valve Cover on a table to install the new Gaskets for it. Once the new gaskets are in, place on the head and tighten it up.
Install the engien mount and Coolant Tank and pretty much anything that is missing. If it is dirty, clean it up and ensure that everything is tight.
Aslong as everything was light up with the cams and timing you should be ready for a drive. Now I installed a set of Crane Stage 2 Cams and holy crap is it a rough idle. I'm waiting on a tune from Randy right now but as it stands my torque is back plus more and my horse power is up. It runs really rich and like s**t but I can't wait for it to be running like a champ. We will see what it hits on the Dyno in September!!
Any questions post up and I will try my best to answer them...
Also a big thanks to Ken for getting me parts and info that I needed. Thanks to Google, what would we do without Google lol. And a big thanks goes to my Father for buying sooo many odd tools, that it seems that I only have a use for. Until next time