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So I began my adventure around 5:30PM this afternoon and wound up endding Day 1 at 8:30PM (too dark to see)

First Jack the Car Up and Take the Wheels off.



Then Start Loosening that Dam Nut.


Nut is off wow.


Drumb is Off even more of a wow.


Take the Shoes off too, along with that piece of s*** self adjuster, Adjust this( ..l.. )


Disconnect the hardline from the soft at the rear.


Spindal off , ABS sensor off and now for the removal of drilling out the 2 rivits top and bottom to take off the backing plate.


Got that off and now to clean up the holes for the 2 new rivits to hold the new backing plate.(I had painted it black but never took pic I will tomorrow and change it up)


Backing Plate on and shinning away.


8:30PM rolls around and managing to get the left rear spindal on.


Thats that, I also managed to take a pic of my stcok headers, dam you guys and your 06+ cars with your fancy 2 piece headers lol.

Lookin good my man. Think you'll get it done tomorrow night? You will have to take me for a spin next Monday. This will make a great "how to"

Small world, I just completed this upgrade on my wagon over the weekend. Took me one full day (11:00 am to 8:00 pm), and then a couple of hours on the second day. I had already changed the back to discs, but with a kit from SSBC that was a POS. The Ford parts are much better and went on with only two issues.

My first issue was with the park brake cable. The shape of the cable end from the brake lever must have changed over the years. Mine would not go in the connector, so I had to dremel it to get it in. No big deal, except that this it had to be done while squeezed under the car.

The second issue was the the snaps holding the brake cables to the body broke when removing the old cables or putting in the new ones. I was able to use some tie-wraps to secure the cables. If you run into to this issue, let me know and I can provide more details.

Ivan MacKenzie.

Cool cool, I'm just waiting on my SS lines from Jegs.com for the rears. Might be in today and might be in tomorrow. Plus I have to put the front SS lines on too and paint and check the brakes up front too. Thanx for the good responces so far.

Excellent write up, keep up the good work and congrats!
Where did you end up getting the parts is what I'm wondering!?

paulicat,Sep 16 2008, 08:08 AM Wrote:Excellent write up, keep up the good work and congrats!
Where did you end up getting the parts is what I'm wondering!?
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All thanx to ZTWsquared (Ken)

looks great buddy.....when are the lowering springs comming in? :)

looking forward to see more pics

s*** they gave me the wrong fittings for the SS lines, so I might have to go with the rubber lines for now unless Performance Improvements has something for me to work with.

Part 2 Day 2 6:00Pm

Heres the controll arm freshly painted and cleaned off.


Rivited on the Shield and screwed on the spindal.


Placed the ceramic coated rotor of the hub and put to lug nuts on to hold in place.


Bolted up the brackets.


Hooked up the SSline from Russel


New Pads


Finally bolted up the caliper


Hub nut cap seeled


I custom bent the hardline from the drum to retro fit caliper.


Still one more day left, E-brake lines, Front SS lines, repainting the front calipers adn bleeding the lines.

Ken and anyone else in the area of my house the car is sitting up in the driveway, feel free to come take a look and check it out.

Were the rotors already cerarmic coated when you purchased them or did you have them coated? Does this coating affect the braking performance or does it just scrape off where the pads make contact with the rotor (leaving the rest of the rotor protected from turning that ugly rust color in a few days)?

dBlast,Sep 17 2008, 05:14 AM Wrote:Were the rotors already cerarmic coated when you purchased them or did you have them coated?  Does this coating affect the braking performance or does it just scrape off where the pads make contact with the rotor (leaving the rest of the rotor protected from turning that ugly rust color in a few days)?
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It was on it from the kit and yes it does scrap off too.

Man your doing a great job with the pics, I'm sure there will be a lot of people thinking about this upgrade now.

So I had no pics from yesterday forgot the camera at work. I hooked the SS lines up front on and repainted the calopers to match the back calipers. Also started to bleed the lines, dam there was alot of air in that system had to stop at 8 once again, no light. For brake fluid I used DOT 4 from Valvalene (crappy tire special)

great mod something i always wanted to do but never got around to it i'll have to take a look at it on monday

Scorcher000,Sep 17 2008, 06:59 AM Wrote:

dBlast,Sep 17 2008, 05:14 AM Wrote:Were the rotors already cerarmic coated when you purchased them or did you have them coated?  Does this coating affect the braking performance or does it just scrape off where the pads make contact with the rotor (leaving the rest of the rotor protected from turning that ugly rust color in a few days)?
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It was on it from the kit and yes it does scrap off too.
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Thats a really nice bonus. I can't even begin to describe how annoying the "rust around the rotor" is my stock SVTf rotors.

Looking good! I agree, I love my enamel coated rotors (Raybestos). Wherever the pads don't touch, the brakes are black enamel coated, oddly enough the face doesn't rust neither, and I've had these for over two months now. I'd love to get the rear conversion done too...

Well I finally got the brakes bleed and the car on the road. Still don't have e-brake, I will finish it up on Saturday.
So I have never ever done a brake job before in my life ever. Always got someone to do it for me, so this was very easy and pretty much self explained from looking at the parts.
The only thing I suggest is to spend the extra and get that dam Motive Power bleeder and make sure you have open spoked wheels or the car jacked up on all 4 to bleed them.

Scorcher000,Sep 19 2008, 08:54 AM Wrote:Well I finally got the brakes bleed and the car on the road. Still don't have e-brake, I will finish it up on Saturday.
So I have never ever done a brake job before in my life ever. Always got someone to do it for me, so this was very easy and pretty much self explained from looking at the parts.
The only thing I suggest is to spend the extra and get that dam Motive Power bleeder and make sure you have open spoked wheels or the car jacked up on all 4 to bleed them.
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Excellent job and write up - congrats John.

how much did this entire kit cost you...and is the ford racing one from CFM comparable??