Why do the aluminum rims become a pain in the neck to remove and get stuck to the steel of the wheel hubs? Is there anything that can be done to stop the pain? I changed to winter tires and steel rims this weekend, and it took some persuasion to remove a couple of the aluminum rims.
Ya I had the same problem when I first got my 2000 ZX3. Either spray the hubs down with WD40 or put some grease on when you take the summers off and when you take the winters off. This is what I do and I don't have that problem anymore.
DRyanC
they sell a fabirc insert for it. Or you can use some jigaloo between tire changes, works for me!
The BMW's were on their good, took a sledge hammer to the center of the rim and it came off. I didnt hit hard, just tapped around where it was meeting the hub to knock the rust off
I use that silver anti-seize crap on the back of the rim.
yeah I had that problem too, best thing to do once the rim is off is to paint the part where it touches the rear drum, and also painting the rear drums helps too, as it prevents rust-fusion as my dad puts it.
i paint the center of the rotor and also put a very thin coat of anti seize on the center of the rotor
oldeguy,Nov 19 2007, 09:45 AM Wrote:Why do the aluminum rims become a pain in the neck to remove and get stuck to the steel of the wheel hubs? [right][snapback]253066[/snapback][/right]
It's because of galvanic corrosion current through dissimilar metals.
Meaning, quite literally, aluminum against iron plus water/water and salt creates current flow that causes the aluminum to corrode. Which is why the wheels pit on the inside -- it's the aluminum's equivalent of rust. The clearance between the hub and the inside of the wheels is unusually tight on the Focus; when it fills up with corrosion it welds the hub and wheel together.
Silver anti-seize is the best to use -- it won't wash away or migrate like grease or oil does.
OAC_Sparky,Nov 21 2007, 01:53 AM Wrote:It's because of galvanic corrosion current through dissimilar metals.
Meaning, quite literally, aluminum against iron plus water/water and salt creates current flow that causes the aluminum to corrode. Which is why the wheels pit on the inside -- it's the aluminum's equivalent of rust. The clearance between the hub and the inside of the wheels is unusually tight on the Focus; when it fills up with corrosion it welds the hub and wheel together.
Silver anti-seize is the best to use -- it won't wash away or migrate like grease or oil does.
[right][snapback]253224[/snapback][/right]
Excellent explanation, but....can we use that current to charge a dead battery? :lol: :lol:
Scorpion,Nov 21 2007, 08:59 AM Wrote:OAC_Sparky,Nov 21 2007, 01:53 AM Wrote:It's because of galvanic corrosion current through dissimilar metals.
Meaning, quite literally, aluminum against iron plus water/water and salt creates current flow that causes the aluminum to corrode. Which is why the wheels pit on the inside -- it's the aluminum's equivalent of rust. The clearance between the hub and the inside of the wheels is unusually tight on the Focus; when it fills up with corrosion it welds the hub and wheel together.
Silver anti-seize is the best to use -- it won't wash away or migrate like grease or oil does.
[right][snapback]253224[/snapback][/right]
Excellent explanation, but....can we use that current to charge a dead battery? :lol: :lol:
[right][snapback]253233[/snapback][/right]
I also had the same problem with my Escort. Ford should develop it as a source of propulsion.
took me 2 hours of hammering on a f250 today at ford lol , sledge helps out best thing you can do is use lots of antiseize!!
I agree to strip down the metal on the brake drums and the front knuckles, and paint them with flat or matte finish high heat BBQ paint or engine enamel. Then use anti-seize compound on the threads of the wheel studs and the center of the hubs and you shouldn't have that problem anymore.
Every time a cars wheels come off we put antisieze on. Helps alot