FocusCanada Forums

anyone on here run them ?
i hear they can still be alright for daily driver....
defenetly only for N/A set up

any input?

i used to have gude cams which i believe have similar lift/duration. need adjustable cam gears and a bit of dyno time to set them up, and i think you need a long tube 4-1 header, exhaust and intake to make use of the extra lift and overlap

personally i think the most you could expect from that setup i mentioned above is like 145whp, and i dont think that is enough to justify the noise coming out of the 4-1 header + aftermarket exhaust combo.

turbo the car or get another car instead :)

if i see 145whp ill be more then happy....and then i'll just stop modding :)

What about a supercharger? I dont think it would cost alot more then getting the cams, gears and headers ( I heard the labour on cams is like 10hrs with all the proper tools)
Plus you would'nt get the wrong type of attention.

My .02

^^^it'll be 10 hours if i'll be doing them LOL

but no, usually it takes from 2-4 hours to do the whole install......i have a mechanic who will do this for a case of 2-4

S/C is a bit more money and i wouldn't wanna go with JRSC......this is gonna be high-milege N/A engine :).....

I think it took Jay about an hour and a bit to do mine. Nik, do your timming belt and tensioner at the same time don't cheap out like you did on the gaskets :P

Also make sure you do this durring the ay so you can go to ford and buy new buckets if you require. A feeler gauge should be used to verify cam lash else you'll gave allot of noise, less power and problems down the road. I didn't need any buckets, but my cames are not agressive.

hardk0re,Jun 15 2007, 11:24 PM Wrote:I think it took Jay about an hour and a bit to do mine.  Nik, do your timming belt and tensioner at the same time don't cheap out like you did on the gaskets :P

Also make sure you do this durring the ay so you can go to ford and buy new buckets if you require.  A feeler gauge should be used to verify cam lash else you'll gave allot of noise, less power and problems down the road.  I didn't need any buckets, but my cames are not agressive.
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Stage three cams........you need to change the buckets. There is alot more involved than just swapping the cams when you install the stage 3 FR. And alot more $$$.

well since this im not in a rush to slap everything on, i'll do everything that needs to be done for FRIII

i've talked on the phone with good guys at FF.com over the phone Mike (b15sir1991) and Tom (oneturbofocus) and the told me if the engine is well maintained(which it is) then i should be good to go.....no head work

anyways im gonna be puttin (and these are the things i purchased today)
FR stage 3 cams
FR springs and retainers (wicked deal on them)
Focus power Cam gears
Installation kit
ARP bolts
oh and lets not forget SVT coolent cover :)

timing belt is a must for sure...called Partsource today and its $55.XX then called Ford and its $105....wtf?

after everything is installed im gonna go to Da Silva Racing...where everything will needs to be tuned + Xcal2 that i have laying around

fingers crossed,hopefully everything will go smooth with these FRIII's

any input would be good from you guys

Nice choice on the build Nik. I would like to see what you eventually get in the end!
You are going the route that I was planning on going before I started considering a turbo. Since I have done nothing I am still on the fence.

keep us updated!

Dont you gotta pull the head to do the springs and retainers? I wouldnt wanna drop a valve in there :unsure:

the mechanic geek squad told me that in order to do springs....you could just pop them out with the compressed air.....sorry im probably talking out of my ass right now but that is what i've been told and that is where my knowledge of building engines ends.....i'll be looking into it for sure.......

ive never seen a spring change with taking off the head but maybe on the newer engines.

do you have a long tube header and exhaust already? might wanna do those since the car is going to be at the shop and going on the dyno anyway.

good luck with the build, let us know how it goes!

yep,full exhaust and full intake

your probably gonna have to do a little grinding on the head to get the cams to fit properly ... with stage 1's and sometimes 2's you don't usually have to .. but almost all the time with stages 3's you gotta do some head work to get them to fit

and yes you can change out the valve springs while the head is on the car by hooking up an air line through the spark plug hole and pressurising the chamber ... otherwise you'd have to pull the head to avoid dropping a valve into the block

^^ditto

yea looks like im gonna have to do some grinding......

anyone ever done that before? :)

are you thinking of pulling the head and doing a port and polish on it, if your doing all this work why not do it at the same time.

FocusGuy7476,Jun 18 2007, 12:23 PM Wrote:are you thinking of pulling the head and doing a port and polish on it, if your doing all this work why not do it at the same time.
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nope,,,im trying to do everything not to take out the head....to be honest i just don't have $$$ for port and polish now

honestly buy parts that focus on forced induction.

in the end after all the money you put into N/A your going to want more, and the only way to get more is some boost.

Nik my engine has 100,000 miles on it and about 10,000 of those have been nitrous / boost fed. these zetec can take a bloody beating, and trust me i beat the living s*** out of my car. i dont let up on it for one second. at the track i do run after run, one after another in 28 degree weather.

honestly boost the car, you can spend a fortune in making your car all N/a and with that same money you could be cruzing around in a 350hp street beast. and even if your engine does pop, eagle rods and supertech pistons are just a call away from massive speed systems.

well that just my 2 cents.

"waits to be flamed"

....only with my next engine im gonna go boost......i gotta see what this can do.......wanna help me build one? :)