i know its really easy to do, but some members might want to see how its done anyway
Tools: socket 10mm, rachet, thin screw driver, working gloves is always good
Photo's are not working any more (i'll fix that later)
1)so you got your engine
2) take out your spark plug wires, and unscrew all 10 screws that hold the cover
3)Unplug the (pressure)tube that connect to the valve cover
4)prepare your new gasket
5)the cover is off
6)clean all the borders of your block from oil and other dirt
7)Cover when its off (while its off, clean it, trust me its the best time to get it to shine)
8)Take a thin screwdriver and take the old gasket out
9)old gasket is out of the cover
10)insert the new gasket, make sure its all the way in and even
11)you can put the cover back on
12)finished product
Shouldn't that be a 10 mm socket?
02ztsian,Nov 10 2006, 09:27 AM Wrote:Shouldn't that be a 10 mm socket?
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thats odd...i used 7/16 and it fit perfectly....no movement
i believe they are really close together....but still :huh:
Yeah, it should be 10mm but 7/16 does work but if you do per chance happen to put on a little crooked you're hooped for a few minutes wrestling the bolt out of the socket while trying not to ruin the threads.
Make sure this is torqued properly, overtorquing will cause leaks. :D
Good write up :)
Flofocus,Nov 10 2006, 01:36 PM Wrote:Make sure this is torqued properly, overtorquing will cause leaks. :D
Good write up :)
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yea at first i went to Midas shop cuz they already know me there :lol:
they've been really helpfull so i always go to the spesific shop..anyways they did tell me to not tight it up like crazy....
sometimes i wish a i had a tourq wrench at home
thanks though
1
you can buy cheapo torque wrenches...ones that have the pie diagam on them, their not accurate like some of the more expensive 'turn' ones....but its good for a hobby mechanic.
Just dont cheap out on one of the turn ones....I bought a cheap one when my freind had my good one....torqued everything down, got my good one back, checked and they were way off. The cheapo one with the pie chart was a lot closer.
what's the torque spec on them?
i'd say not more then 10pounds
honestly you dont have to torque down everything in a car, its only a valve cover, just tighten it till its tight, honeslty torque specs arent the most important thing. i know a guy that refurbished an engine, and never torqued any thing down, and i mean nothing, his engine ran perfect for two years. it blew becuase when installing a boost controller he forgot to put the vac line back into the wastegate and had a 30psi boost spike.
Just because a friend didn't torque anything in a fresh built motor doesn't mean he wouldn't have had failure if he wouldn't have blown it first. He was just sh!+ lucky it didn't let go before hand...
Applying proper torque to anything is a good idea. With the tensile strength of some steels and aluminums, torque is needed to ensure a proper seal so you don't get blown head gaskets, walking cranks, etc. Also a good idea is following the proper torque sequence, especially with cylinder heads. I know with the new 4.6L Mustangs, you torque each bolt to X lbs/inch, then to Y lbs/inch, starting from the middle and working out.
That being said, proper torque should be used on the Zetec valve cover since it's plastic, and you don't want to over tighten it and crack that beotch. :D
Ryan