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Svt Suspension Has Arrived...
#1
So, my Focus, being 8 years old and having 195,000 kms on it, is getting a little tired in the suspension department. I broke the front sway bar last winter (thanks Puppet for the replacement!) and have been replacing end links yearly it seems (good luck breaking the Moogs now!).

So, I broke down and ordered the SVT kit from Steve @ Tousley Ford (from FJ). I ordered the M-3000-ZX3A, which is the preassembled kit (new strut bearing, strut mounts, isolators, everything). No SVT sway bar in this kit, but that is ok for now. I'm going to pick up some new rear end links as well.

Am I missing anything? I bought this kit since it is preassembled (no spring compressor needed for the fronts) hoping I can do it in the driveway. Oh, and cheap too. $286 plus shipping to Ogdensburg UPS Store (~$40), then my time and money to go get it. Declared at the border, under $45. Grand total for parts is under $400 by the time I buy the end links.

Any body have any tips/trick/suggestions?
Ryan and the Silver Sedan
++++++++++++++++++++++++
2008 Mazda5 GS/Copper Red Mica/2.3 MZR 5AT/22% Tint
[Image: 49951.png]
2011 Ford F150 FX4 Supercrew/Race Red/3.5 TT EcoBoost
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#2
I just put the saleen suspension kit on mine, it wasn't preassembled so I needed a spring compressor.
Its pretty straightforward stuff, the only tip I can pass on is when you do the rear suspension, make sure you do not tighten any bolts while the car is in the air. Put everything together, but don't torque it down. Lower the car down from the jack stands , then torque it down. The alternative method is there is a ride height design measurement that can be made between the lower control arm and the frame rails, I don't recall the exact details, but its mentioned in the haynes manuals.
Speaking of lower control arms...unless you've had the bolts out recently, or had the arms replaced recently, be prepared for the seized bolts that hold them in.
Unfortunately, if/when they seize, you need new arms, no ifs, ands or buts about it.
And don't forget the wheel alignment when you're done. :)
Good luck with the install!
Procharger: Removed, and waiting for new host.
Future: Genesis Coupe 2.0t.
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#3
Which rear bolts? In board at the cross-member, or outboard at the hub? The control arm won't lower enough to allow the springs in or out with the shock disconnected?
Ryan and the Silver Sedan
++++++++++++++++++++++++
2008 Mazda5 GS/Copper Red Mica/2.3 MZR 5AT/22% Tint
[Image: 49951.png]
2011 Ford F150 FX4 Supercrew/Race Red/3.5 TT EcoBoost
Reply
#4
Outboard.
You can only get the spring out with a compressor if removing that bolt is not an option.
Procharger: Removed, and waiting for new host.
Future: Genesis Coupe 2.0t.
Reply
#5
Ok, so if I have a spring compressor, I can still get the rears out without dropping the LCA? One rear is broken, so it should fall out. The hard part will be getting the new ones in. :D
Ryan and the Silver Sedan
++++++++++++++++++++++++
2008 Mazda5 GS/Copper Red Mica/2.3 MZR 5AT/22% Tint
[Image: 49951.png]
2011 Ford F150 FX4 Supercrew/Race Red/3.5 TT EcoBoost
Reply
#6
Thats correct.
I didn't have a rear spring compressor handy (I only have a strut spring compressor), plus my car was still under extended warranty and they actually covered the LCA replacement, only had to pay the 100 deductible.
Procharger: Removed, and waiting for new host.
Future: Genesis Coupe 2.0t.
Reply
#7
Ok, anybody in Ottawa have a spring compressor I can snag for the weekend? :D If not, Princess Auto, here I come! :lol:
Ryan and the Silver Sedan
++++++++++++++++++++++++
2008 Mazda5 GS/Copper Red Mica/2.3 MZR 5AT/22% Tint
[Image: 49951.png]
2011 Ford F150 FX4 Supercrew/Race Red/3.5 TT EcoBoost
Reply
#8
I found it to be a real tight place to work in, so just be sure the one you get is not a strut spring compressor. ;)
Procharger: Removed, and waiting for new host.
Future: Genesis Coupe 2.0t.
Reply
#9
Well, the fronts are in. Took about 2 hours with hand tools to do them. Rear shock bolts are seized nice and tight. Either going to rent a compressor and air tools this weekend, or have my mechanic do the swap.

HUGE difference with just doing the fronts. I marked the top strut bolts before I removed the old ones, and alignment is pretty close. Still going to have the shop do it once the rears are done.

Car rides a lot smoother, and is a lot more controlled in corners. Less body roll by far.

I was pleasantly surprised with the change in just the fronts. :D

This weekend, the rears (hopefully)...
Ryan and the Silver Sedan
++++++++++++++++++++++++
2008 Mazda5 GS/Copper Red Mica/2.3 MZR 5AT/22% Tint
[Image: 49951.png]
2011 Ford F150 FX4 Supercrew/Race Red/3.5 TT EcoBoost
Reply
#10
Ok, finally got the rears done, after 8 hours in my driveway on Sunday.

All I can say is 'Wow'. What a difference. It's like a whole new car. Anybody thinking of this, do it!

Just don't do it yourself. :D I'm still hurting. All my bolts were seized in the hubs, so I had my friend at his shop loosen them first (while he was replacing a grenaded wheel bearing on the back passenger side). Went the spring compressor route rather than unbolting the lower control arm from the hub, and that is what took so long. About 3 hours per side to get the springs back in. Both rear springs were broken in the lower control arm, and the passnger side spring was broken in the upper perch as well. They came out alot easier than the new ones went in! :lol:

Shocks are nothing to change. Two bolts. I also put new end links on ($16 a piece from Partsource for TRW). Huge difference right there, with them having urethane bushings versus rubber.

All in all, very happy with the new setup. Makes me love my car again. :wub:

Now time for tires! :lol:
Ryan and the Silver Sedan
++++++++++++++++++++++++
2008 Mazda5 GS/Copper Red Mica/2.3 MZR 5AT/22% Tint
[Image: 49951.png]
2011 Ford F150 FX4 Supercrew/Race Red/3.5 TT EcoBoost
Reply


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