[duckcanuck]

I am trying to install a Reese model 77114 Class 1 trailer hitch on a 2005 ZX5 SES (without the street appearance package).

The problem is that the passenger side plate of the hitch winds up a good 1/2 inch from the tie down hook plate that it bolts to, and that is with the additional 1/4 inch spacer installed there (as per the instructions, hatch different from sedan).

I have used C-Clamps to secure everything during test fitting, and I do not see any way that such a wide gap will be taken up by the final tightening of the bolts (the C-Clamp sure doesn't move it).

Has anyone else installed one of these hitches? Did you have similar problems? How did you fix it?

Thanks for any help,

Bob

[ZTWsquared]

(08-14-2012, 03:27 AM)duckcanuck Wrote: I am trying to install a Reese model 77114 Class 1 trailer hitch on a 2005 ZX5 SES (without the street appearance package).

The problem is that the passenger side plate of the hitch winds up a good 1/2 inch from the tie down hook plate that it bolts to, and that is with the additional 1/4 inch spacer installed there (as per the instructions, hatch different from sedan).

I have used C-Clamps to secure everything during test fitting, and I do not see any way that such a wide gap will be taken up by the final tightening of the bolts (the C-Clamp sure doesn't move it).

Has anyone else installed one of these hitches? Did you have similar problems? How did you fix it?

Thanks for any help,

Bob

I've installed quite a few hitches on various foci (all of them hidden hitch however) and there was never that big of a gap to be taken up ... maybe a pic would help but it seems there's def something wrong there.

You did check I assume that you have the correct part number?+

[duckcanuck]

Hi, thanks for offer of help. Part/model number matches.

Instructions say that DS plate goes inside tie down, PS plate goes outside tie down.

(I tried to see if DS could go outside tie down, but plate on hitch is too tall)

Here are photos (I hope the labels survived upload):

   
   
   

Gap on PS is about 1/2 inch. Kit comes with 1/4 inch spacer for that gap.

Let me know if I can explain any better.

Bob

---

Just got off the phone with Reese. They confirmed the dimension of the hitch according to their specs

Their suggestion is to try to "adjust" the DS tie-down. This would move the whole hitch towards the DS. It is true that this also would centre it slightly better (currently offset to PS by about 3/8 inch.

(I have looked at the DS tie-down and it does not show any signs of having been tweaked; either does the PS tie down.)

Given that the tie downs are L-shaped and welded in two dimensions, it is realistic to hope to move it enough?

Bob

[ZTWsquared]

(08-14-2012, 05:50 AM)duckcanuck Wrote: Hi, thanks for offer of help. Part/model number matches.

Instructions say that DS plate goes inside tie down, PS plate goes outside tie down.

(I tried to see if DS could go outside tie down, but plate on hitch is too tall)

Here are photos (I hope the labels survived upload):





Gap on PS is about 1/2 inch. Kit comes with 1/4 inch spacer for that gap.

Let me know if I can explain any better.

Bob

---

Just got off the phone with Reese. They confirmed the dimension of the hitch according to their specs

Their suggestion is to try to "adjust" the DS tie-down. This would move the whole hitch towards the DS. It is true that this also would centre it slightly better (currently offset to PS by about 3/8 inch.

(I have looked at the DS tie-down and it does not show any signs of having been tweaked; either does the PS tie down.)

Given that the tie downs are L-shaped and welded in two dimensions, it is realistic to hope to move it enough?

Bob

I think what I would do in your position is this:

Add the spacer that they indicate, add some washers on the other side too until you think it's centred, then going back and forth torque down the two sides bit by bit.

If they give you a torque rating for those bolts go to that setting and then see if you're tight. If so, then you should be okay - if not, then definitely something else wrong.

Was the car ever in an accident ... any chance it's just a bit not 100% to specs?

[MuskokaZX3]

What ken said!! Keep the spacer there, then add a spacer/washers to the drivers side, torque down drivers side, then torque down passenger side.

[duckcanuck]

OK, thanks.

I also wondered if the car was bent, but it does not show any other signs of damage, and paint is original.

Washers on DS actually would make things worse (hitch goes inside DS, outside PS).

I noticed that the tie-down holes on the car are radius-ed (I assume for greater strength). I wondered if it was a good or bad idea to grind those down flush (probably only worth 1/8 inch, and not a fun job).

So, from your experience it sounds like adding spacers/washers to take up the gap is a safe option, correct?

From that PS photo, you can see where the hitch will rest against the frame. It overlaps to the outside a bit. Is that a concern?

Bob

[ZTWsquared]

(08-14-2012, 07:54 AM)duckcanuck Wrote: OK, thanks.

I also wondered if the car was bent, but it does not show any other signs of damage, and paint is original.

Washers on DS actually would make things worse (hitch goes inside DS, outside PS).

I noticed that the tie-down holes on the car are radius-ed (I assume for greater strength). I wondered if it was a good or bad idea to grind those down flush (probably only worth 1/8 inch, and not a fun job).

So, from your experience it sounds like adding spacers/washers to take up the gap is a safe option, correct?

From that PS photo, you can see where the hitch will rest against the frame. It overlaps to the outside a bit. Is that a concern?

Bob

Hey Bob - I certainly don't want to suggest something that goes against your better judgement - I'm just in the peanut gallery LOL.

Yeah, I forgot the DS was inside the frame (IIRC the hidden hitch is on the inside of both) ... so I guess you only have one option which is to shim the PS. I don't think I would use just washers, I would want to use a shim that covers as much of the contact area as possible - sort of like building up the frame. That way the clamping force of the bolts is distributed across a much bigger area which will reduce the possibility of movement and shearing the bolt.

Tighten the DS, measure the gap, then go to some place like The Metal Supermarket and get a piece of steel as thick as you need to fill in the gap, and then use your spacer as a template to drill the holes.

[duckcanuck]

Thanks again Ken,

Yeah, I agree that I want as much surface area as I can get on the spacers.

I just tried "persuading" the DS tie-down. Forget it! You can move the lower corner somewhat, but since the hitch side plate goes all the way up to the side of the frame rail, you would have to move that also. Obviously not going to happen.

I'll go back at it tomorrow. A rested mind helps.

Bob

p.s. the Reese 77114 is the same product as the HiddenHitch 60870, just with a different label. They are all made by Cequent Towing Products.

[duckcanuck]

Hitch is now in place. It came down to needing an extra 1/4 inch spacer to fill the 1/2 inch gap between the PS tie-down and the hitch side plate.

Luckily the 1/4 inch spacer that comes with the kit is multi-application. It is 4 inches long, and has two holes, but on the hatchback installation, you only use one hole, and the spacer does not bear on its whole length.

So, I cut the spacer in half, and sandwiched the two halves to make one spacer, 1/2 inch thick, and 2 inches by 1.5 inches of surface. A materials expert I consulted felt that was enough area to spread the loads.

Thanks for all the help offered. It is really useful to be able to discuss stuff like this with other folks who have "been there, done that".

Bob