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Turbo
#21
I'd say he could get away with the PW kit as denoted and configured by the guys at PW. Like Mitch said, they've driven one for over 16,000KMs without issues.

With that said, I'm paranoid and would install the FR valvebody upgrade for the ATX. If I get up into the cam kit and everything else, the valvebody upgrade is on my list to do.
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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#22
puppet,
below 3000rpm the auto will sometimes downshift into the lower gear before shifting into the higher gear which can screw with the dyno sheet.



Kev,
part of the problem with the auto and too much power were the shifts and how the shifts were happening. the upside to the PW kit is they have fords calibration data to get the shifts extactly right to hold the power the kit makes. most auto's fail because the tuning for the shifts is wrong and it eats the clutch packs and bands alive.... thus melting the transmission.

the guys at PW do say any upgrades to the tranny will allow for more torque to be made OR more abusive driving ro be handled by it.

the Auto will never be a solid tranny untill it is built and that should ALWAYS be kept in the back of your head when modding and driving it. that being said you can still have a lot of fun with both hands on the steering wheel, you just have to be a bit smarter with the mods you pick and who does the tuning!
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