vy_MR2,Dec 14 2006, 08:45 PM Wrote:I found the fuse panel layout on this forum, and according to it, fuse 41 is not used.
[right][snapback]220392[/snapback][/right]
Sorry, my mistake, I thought you had a later model.
The fuses to check are:
32, 35, 36, 50, 59, 61 (that covers everything)
Specifically, if you want to test the switch, pull out the light switch so you an access the wires in the back (but still plugged into the switch).
This is what you should get with a voltmeter with the key in RUN and the light switch ON (park or headlights on). Attach the black lead of the meter to a good KNOWN ground like a screw, or the dash frame. Put the voltmeter on DC Volts.
With the red lead, jam it in the back of the light switch plug at the following wires:
Orange/black stripe: +12V >>If not you have a 10A fuse blown
Green/black stripe: +12V >>If not you have a 7.5VA fuse blown
Orange/blue stripe: Between +12V and +.25V. When you turn the dimmer up the voltage should rise.
Black: 0V. Turn the car off (important). Put your multimeter to "Ohms" (Resistance). The needle should peg at nearly 0 Ohms when you connect the red lead to the black wire in the plug and the black lead to ground.
If the first two wires are fine (have +12V) and the last is no good (0V no matter what you move the dimmer wheel to), then the switch is bad.
If you have a voltage at the black or there is a high (infinite) resistance at the black the ground is bad.
If you replace a blown fuse, and it blows again, you'll have to delve deeper.