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Okay folks, subject line says it all. Going to the SVTOA track weekend and realized after talking to another member here that its very likely I do not meet the minimum required pad thickness of 40% lining remaining (The car has only 52K on it, but was an ex daily rental before I got my hands on it at 14K)
So, what I need is volunteers and workspace to change my pads, I myself have zero mechanical ability and would simply be able to hand people tools as they request them. Payment for the labour is in the form of beer/food/cash whatever.
I'm looking for someone to help me within the GTA on a weekend, either this one (July 9/10) or next as the track weekend is the last weekend in July.
I also need recommendations of what pads to get and where to get them from.
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If you were near me, I'd change them no problem.
But since I'm 5+ hours away, let's scratch that, lol.
As for pads, I put Monroes on my gf's zx5 and they seem to do the job.
Over 10,000KM on them already!
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Personally i've run EBC Greenstuff pads and Hawk HPS pads on the front rotors. Both sets were good. Right now i'm running the Hawks but the only reason i switched was to see if the hawks would give off less brake dust then the EBC's. Both sets of pads i was able to get thru steeda, but there's prolly other places to get them too. I don't think you'd go wrong with either brand.
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I would reccomend Halk HPS if you want a more agressive street pad, or halk HP+ if you want a good track pad (that can be used on the street).
as for rear shoes (if u dont have discs) there really isnt many options, so go for the stock OEM or equivalent shoe. besides most of your brakeing is done by the front wheels
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If the brake setup is the same or equivalent as the 2004 Focus I can do it no sweat. Sunday, this weekend would be a better day for me but if need to be on saturday it would have to be around 4/5pm (I work all day). Let me know if you need anything else done as well, I got an entire line up of tools :)
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Burnin21,Jul 4 2007, 05:16 PM Wrote:If the brake setup is the same or equivalent as the 2004 Focus I can do it no sweat. Sunday, this weekend would be a better day for me but if need to be on saturday it would have to be around 4/5pm (I work all day). Let me know if you need anything else done as well, I got an entire line up of tools :)
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I understand that the 2005 brakes do things slightly differently and actually have a tool that makes popping the pads out a snap, otherwise it becomes a bit of a hack job.
Anyone with an +05 Focus that can confirm this?
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07-05-2007, 10:29 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-05-2007, 10:30 AM by naz.)
i'm using brembo sport brake pads right now
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?...Pads&group=null
i haven't use them at a track but they get the job done for spirited mountain driving. you can actually notice the difference in initial bite when the pads warm up. they also squeal sometimes when they are warm.. but i think that can be said for most aggressive pads
i wouldn't get too carried away with an overly aggressive pad. there are some very real tradeoffs, such as increased dusting and noise, and increased rotor wear when cold..
EDIT: i forgot to mention i like these brembos more than the hawk hps.. the initial bite feels better
also, i had the hawk hps pads on my focus and i felt like they performed the same as stock, but with less dust. if you could get a good deal on the OEM pad, i think it is a solid choice.
i find the a rubber mallet (to whack the rotor off) some chain and a clip (to hang the caliper from the spring or spring perch), a huge bar that fits over your wrench (to get the caliper mounting bolt off) and a c clamp (to get the caliper compressed) really make the life a lot easier when doing brakes
it is REALLY easy to do yourself (that said.. i have never worked on your year focus.. so take that with a grain of salt).. don't forget to anti seize the caliper mounting bolts and using anti squeal grease where the pad hits the caliper (don't go too crazy so it doesn't get on the rotor face)
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AFAIK they just increased the diameter, but I'm open to corrections.
Maybe skulk the Jet and see what you can find? Nm, I'll do that for you :P
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you changing the rotors to?
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Flofocus,Jul 5 2007, 07:46 AM Wrote:you changing the rotors to?
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Didn't think I needed to... I'm only upgrading to Hawk HPS pads and the rotors have only 52K on them (and have been maintained by Ford Service since I bought the car)
Are you thinking I need to throw a new set of OE rotors on there too? :blink:
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I always change my rotors when changing pads.
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NefCanuck,Jul 5 2007, 10:46 AM Wrote:Flofocus,Jul 5 2007, 07:46 AM Wrote:you changing the rotors to?
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Didn't think I needed to... I'm only upgrading to Hawk HPS pads and the rotors have only 52K on them (and have been maintained by Ford Service since I bought the car)
Are you thinking I need to throw a new set of OE rotors on there too? :blink:
NefCanuck
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I'd go with Brembo blanks if you're putting new rotors in.
Or just chuck it all and put a Big Brake Kit in. :ph34r:
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If your rotors arent warped or in bad shape you dont need to swap them out , but if you can afford it its the best way so you dont replace pads and end up with a warped rotor.
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zx5power,Jul 5 2007, 11:12 AM Wrote:If your rotors arent warped or in bad shape you dont need to swap them out , but if you can afford it its the best way so you dont replace pads and end up with a warped rotor.
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How do you know if they arent wrapped or in bad shape though? Im talking for the average guy here, not a mechanic that has done 40 million brakes jobs. :rolleyes:
I thought my Accords rotors were fine so I just did the pads, 3 months later I hear a grinding noise was coming from the back (where I changed my pads) and the pads was almost done on the bottom but completely fine on top. Asked my mechanic freind about it and his 1st question was did I change the rotors. Change sthe rotors, replaced the pads, and have no problems anymore.
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This is good advice ... at the very least you need to get the rotors turned to remove the layer of friction material from your old pads ... as I understand it when you break in a new set of pads it actually transfers a thin layer of friction material onto the rotor ... and so new pads means you need to remove that layer.
I'm doing the Dunville thing too and I'm simply putting new rotors and pads on ... The originals only have 17k on them, but I'd rather invest the money in new rotors vs. turning the old ones, and I'll save the originals for when the car goes back to the dealer at the end of the lease.
BTW Daniel ... I've decided to go with EBC Green stuff which I can pick up at a Mississauga warehouse for $71 for two wheels - I haven't decided on rotors yet.
Flofocus,Jul 5 2007, 10:50 AM Wrote:I always change my rotors when changing pads.
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ZTWsquared,Jul 5 2007, 11:33 AM Wrote:This is good advice ... at the very least you need to get the rotors turned to remove the layer of friction material from your old pads ... as I understand it when you break in a new set of pads it actually transfers a thin layer of friction material onto the rotor ... and so new pads means you need to remove that layer.
I'm doing the Dunville thing too and I'm simply putting new rotors and pads on ... The originals only have 17k on them, but I'd rather invest the money in new rotors vs. turning the old ones, and I'll save the originals for when the car goes back to the dealer at the end of the lease.
BTW Daniel ... I've decided to go with EBC Green stuff which I can pick up at a Mississauga warehouse for $71 for two wheels - I haven't decided on rotors yet.
Flofocus,Jul 5 2007, 10:50 AM Wrote:I always change my rotors when changing pads.
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Ah, okay then, a new set of rotors it is, since turning them isn't an option right now when the new pads go in :P
Any idea if the Ford OEM rotors could stand up to track day use? I've got a set of Hawk HPS pads on order (I'm wondering if I should maybe slip by Dixie Ford to get a set of the rotors, since they are a sponsor of the event))
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The retail price of an OE rotor is 120.00 and the premium Motorcraft version is 90.00. Partsource quoted 89.00 for their premium Wagner rotor.
I was also quoted 70.00 at a couple of local auto parts stores for a made-in-China rotor.
At one time I got a decent discount at Dixie (15% IIRC) through the agency I worked at ... I'll let you know this aft if I still qualify and if so, and if you decide you want a Ford rotor, I can hook you up.
NefCanuck,Jul 5 2007, 01:42 PM Wrote:ZTWsquared,Jul 5 2007, 11:33 AM Wrote:This is good advice ... at the very least you need to get the rotors turned to remove the layer of friction material from your old pads ... as I understand it when you break in a new set of pads it actually transfers a thin layer of friction material onto the rotor ... and so new pads means you need to remove that layer.
I'm doing the Dunville thing too and I'm simply putting new rotors and pads on ... The originals only have 17k on them, but I'd rather invest the money in new rotors vs. turning the old ones, and I'll save the originals for when the car goes back to the dealer at the end of the lease.
BTW Daniel ... I've decided to go with EBC Green stuff which I can pick up at a Mississauga warehouse for $71 for two wheels - I haven't decided on rotors yet.
Flofocus,Jul 5 2007, 10:50 AM Wrote:I always change my rotors when changing pads.
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Ah, okay then, a new set of rotors it is, since turning them isn't an option right now when the new pads go in :P
Any idea if the Ford OEM rotors could stand up to track day use? I've got a set of Hawk HPS pads on order (I'm wondering if I should maybe slip by Dixie Ford to get a set of the rotors, since they are a sponsor of the event))
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ZTWsquared,Jul 5 2007, 12:48 PM Wrote:The retail price of an OE rotor is 120.00 and the premium Motorcraft version is 90.00. Partsource quoted 89.00 for their premium Wagner rotor.
I was also quoted 70.00 at a couple of local auto parts stores for a made-in-China rotor.
At one time I got a decent discount at Dixie (15% IIRC) through the agency I worked at ... I'll let you know this aft if I still qualify and if so, and if you decide you want a Ford rotor, I can hook you up.
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Well, I certainly wouldn't go with a "Made In China" solution for a track day event :ph34r: But why the $30 difference between the OE & Motorcraft rotor? Aren't they the exact same thing? Or is there some difference in terms of warranty/materials?
Yes please, if you could find out if you qualify for the discount that would be great.
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I believe I paid $130 taxes in for Brembo Blanks from ZX3Tuning.
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Yeah...my brembo blanks were not much more than the CT ones beleive it or not...
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