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ok so as the title suggests, i want to be able to run 14's with my 2.0l duratec. now currently i have a obx header, highflow cat, 2.25 back, K&N SRI, dogbone mount, xcal2.
now b4 the header i was able to hit 15.8 @ 88 mph (high trap for a high time) now what im thinking is, in order to get my times down there a lot to do yet. first off, i was thinking a quaife ATB, lightweight wheels on some drag radials, clutch and flywheel kit, bigger TB and cams. with this list and considering my 2.35 60ft time currently, is it possible for somewhere around a 14.7? i will post an updated time this saturday after i give the car a run with the header.
NOTE: i will be running N/A so no boooosssstttt or nitrous. i want to run in the super street class at CSCS next year if anyones wondering.
2007 ZX4 2.0l unaturally aspirated
FSwerks stage 2 Turbo kit, Cosworth Intake Manifold, 3" custom HKS turbo back
regular stage 2 @10ps : 232whp/219wtq
stage 2 plus @ 13psi: 278whp/229wtq
Stage 2 plus @15psi: 296whp/240wtq
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Port n polish head or go with a ford racing head.
High Comp Pistons and rods.
And last but certainly not least... remove s*** from the car. Less weight helps.
Sold: 2001 SE 2.0L SPI w/60mm TB, Steeda Shorty Intake.
Active: 2007 SES Hatch, Motegi MR7 Rims with 215/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, debadged, black painted calipers and drums, RS Knob, CFM Short Throw, Billet E-Brake, CFM Focus pedals, MBRP Exhaust, XCal2, FS Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Diamond Plate Floor Mats and Sills, Alpine MP3 Deck, Alpine V-Power 300w Amp, Pioneer IMPP Sub, AlpineType-S door speakers, VF Engineering Rear Motor Mount, F2 RS Spoiler, Tokico D-spec shocks, HTP Cross Brace, EBC Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Russell SS Brake Lines, RS Wheel, SVT Blue Seats, Vibrant 2.5" Race Highflow Cat, CFM UDP. Rear SVT bumper to come.
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GFXjamie,Sep 16 2008, 12:27 AM Wrote:ok so as the title suggests, i want to be able to run 14's with my 2.0l duratec. now currently i have a obx header, highflow cat, 2.25 back, K&N SRI, dogbone mount, xcal2.
now b4 the header i was able to hit 15.8 @ 88 mph (high trap for a high time) now what im thinking is, in order to get my times down there a lot to do yet. first off, i was thinking a quaife ATB, lightweight wheels on some drag radials, clutch and flywheel kit, bigger TB and cams. with this list and considering my 2.35 60ft time currently, is it possible for somewhere around a 14.7? i will post an updated time this saturday after i give the car a run with the header.
NOTE: i will be running N/A so no boooosssstttt or nitrous. i want to run in the super street class at CSCS next year if anyones wondering.
[right][snapback]272498[/snapback][/right]
Where are you going to do your runs ??
Skirt, Volant Intake, HID projectors, Eibach Suspension, SVT rims
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Nevermind, just saw other post !
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09-16-2008, 11:45 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-16-2008, 11:59 PM by NikiterZTS.)
don't bother reaching that goal with N/A
i've read several threads on FF.com where a guy with 2.3L dropped SOOO much money to reach 201whp ......from i remember he had every freackin bolt on,shaved and ported head, rough cams, cosworth manifold....like eeeeverything and thats with 2.3L
i say don't bother
His name is Egz on FF.com....search his threads on there
EDIT:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/271969
201 HP, 157 ft-lbs - All Motor
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320whp/330wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 3)
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09-17-2008, 01:22 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-17-2008, 01:24 AM by NOS2Go4Me.)
There's nothing wrong with going all-motor. Just be ready for all the catcalls and haters who don't understand why you're doing it.
Now, as for your goal? Not gonna happen unless you're twisting that 2.0L up beyond 7500 RPM. You're going to want high-comp pistons, lightwieght rods, new main bolts, new head studs, PnPed head, new valvetrain, Cosworth intake and SFM (standalone fuel management) or a really dedicated tuner who will work well with you and your XCal2. The XCal2 is the easier road for sure.
At the risk of getting in trouble, contact Mike at MorePowerTuning.com. A link to his site is in my sig. He does a lot of custom, oddball tuning and chances are he'll give you an idea of what it would cost to tune you once you decide on / procure the parts you'll need to go that fast.
What you're attempting can be done... but likely only on 94 octane. And, given that 94 octane in Canada is just 91 octane with extra ethanol added to boost the octane count... you're going to want a setup that can take the extra (corrosive) beating from said fuel blending. I hear that some stations near the tracks sell 100+ octane, but if you tune for that, good luck with everyday driveability. You'd almost want a 3 or 5-gallon can in the car, filled at all times. Out of town trips would require a ridiculous amount of planning.
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
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NOS2Go4Me,Sep 16 2008, 11:22 AM Wrote:There's nothing wrong with going all-motor. Just be ready for all the catcalls and haters who don't understand why you're doing it.
Now, as for your goal? Not gonna happen unless you're twisting that 2.0L up beyond 7500 RPM. You're going to want high-comp pistons, lightwieght rods, new main bolts, new head studs, PnPed head, new valvetrain, Cosworth intake and SFM (standalone fuel management) or a really dedicated tuner who will work well with you and your XCal2. The XCal2 is the easier road for sure.
At the risk of getting in trouble, contact Mike at MorePowerTuning.com. A link to his site is in my sig. He does a lot of custom, oddball tuning and chances are he'll give you an idea of what it would cost to tune you once you decide on / procure the parts you'll need to go that fast.
What you're attempting can be done... but likely only on 94 octane. And, given that 94 octane in Canada is just 91 octane with extra ethanol added to boost the octane count... you're going to want a setup that can take the extra (corrosive) beating from said fuel blending. I hear that some stations near the tracks sell 100+ octane, but if you tune for that, good luck with everyday driveability. You'd almost want a 3 or 5-gallon can in the car, filled at all times. Out of town trips would require a ridiculous amount of planning.
[right][snapback]272537[/snapback][/right]
What he's really saying is boost it and screw NA.
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09-17-2008, 01:52 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-17-2008, 01:54 AM by ZX3_2NV.)
either boost or n/a sorry but you won't be able to compete in CSCS Super street classes a/m class runs low 12's and power adder class runs mid 9's ur best bet is to run bracket or boost it and see if you can get a low 13 high 12 out of it then you can run street warz which is a heads up 12.5 and slower class
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NOS2Go4Me,Sep 16 2008, 10:22 AM Wrote:There's nothing wrong with going all-motor. Just be ready for all the catcalls and haters who don't understand why you're doing it.
Now, as for your goal? Not gonna happen unless you're twisting that 2.0L up beyond 7500 RPM. You're going to want high-comp pistons, lightwieght rods, new main bolts, new head studs, PnPed head, new valvetrain, Cosworth intake and SFM (standalone fuel management) or a really dedicated tuner who will work well with you and your XCal2. The XCal2 is the easier road for sure.
At the risk of getting in trouble, contact Mike at MorePowerTuning.com. A link to his site is in my sig. He does a lot of custom, oddball tuning and chances are he'll give you an idea of what it would cost to tune you once you decide on / procure the parts you'll need to go that fast.
What you're attempting can be done... but likely only on 94 octane. And, given that 94 octane in Canada is just 91 octane with extra ethanol added to boost the octane count... you're going to want a setup that can take the extra (corrosive) beating from said fuel blending. I hear that some stations near the tracks sell 100+ octane, but if you tune for that, good luck with everyday driveability. You'd almost want a 3 or 5-gallon can in the car, filled at all times. Out of town trips would require a ridiculous amount of planning.
[right][snapback]272537[/snapback][/right]
im not a hater......im just trying to help him to save alot of money :lol:
2002 Ford Focus ZTS (Gave it away)
125whp/129wtq
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX with JDM 6 speed
207whp/273wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 2)13.9@99mph
320whp/330wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 3)
352whp/360wtq Dynojet
13.3@106mph
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat
2008 Honda CBR600RR "Silver Bullet" R.I.P.
2009 Honda CBR600RR "To Punish & Enslave"
2001 Honda CBR F4i Stunt bike "Burn the Rubber, not your soul"
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Another idea... 3.0l Duratec swap
OR
350ci swap!
B)
Sold: 2001 SE 2.0L SPI w/60mm TB, Steeda Shorty Intake.
Active: 2007 SES Hatch, Motegi MR7 Rims with 215/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, debadged, black painted calipers and drums, RS Knob, CFM Short Throw, Billet E-Brake, CFM Focus pedals, MBRP Exhaust, XCal2, FS Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Diamond Plate Floor Mats and Sills, Alpine MP3 Deck, Alpine V-Power 300w Amp, Pioneer IMPP Sub, AlpineType-S door speakers, VF Engineering Rear Motor Mount, F2 RS Spoiler, Tokico D-spec shocks, HTP Cross Brace, EBC Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Russell SS Brake Lines, RS Wheel, SVT Blue Seats, Vibrant 2.5" Race Highflow Cat, CFM UDP. Rear SVT bumper to come.
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Heck if your gonna drop in 350ci you might as well weld braces in like a mad man and squeeze in a 427 lol woooooooooo :P
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thanks for the replies so far guys, but to be honest, i dont believe its going to take that much to get even a high 14. currently i run a trap speed of a lower 15 second time w/o a header. now take this into consideration, burnin21, your trap speed in ur sig is 86 at a 15.7, my personal best is a 15.8 @ 88 mph. so just alone by improvements to my 60ft time, i believe there is more potential out of less modification. but either way if i go boost or not, i will need a LSD, clutch/flywheel along with light wheels and rele good tires. normally every tenth on the 60ft is worth 2 tenths of the 1/4 mile. so im now going to have boost in the back of my mind even tho i didnt wanna...
as for EGZ on FF, ive read a lot of the threads and looked at all his mods. that is one heck of a lot of work to do lol and money aswell. well after this weekend i will have to see where im at.
thanks for the replies
2007 ZX4 2.0l unaturally aspirated
FSwerks stage 2 Turbo kit, Cosworth Intake Manifold, 3" custom HKS turbo back
regular stage 2 @10ps : 232whp/219wtq
stage 2 plus @ 13psi: 278whp/229wtq
Stage 2 plus @15psi: 296whp/240wtq
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no replacement for displacement
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DD1,Sep 17 2008, 06:53 AM Wrote:no replacement for displacement
[right][snapback]272583[/snapback][/right]
Boost does the job better. :D
Sold: 2001 SE 2.0L SPI w/60mm TB, Steeda Shorty Intake.
Active: 2007 SES Hatch, Motegi MR7 Rims with 215/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, debadged, black painted calipers and drums, RS Knob, CFM Short Throw, Billet E-Brake, CFM Focus pedals, MBRP Exhaust, XCal2, FS Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Diamond Plate Floor Mats and Sills, Alpine MP3 Deck, Alpine V-Power 300w Amp, Pioneer IMPP Sub, AlpineType-S door speakers, VF Engineering Rear Motor Mount, F2 RS Spoiler, Tokico D-spec shocks, HTP Cross Brace, EBC Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Russell SS Brake Lines, RS Wheel, SVT Blue Seats, Vibrant 2.5" Race Highflow Cat, CFM UDP. Rear SVT bumper to come.
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It's all about HP/L. If you want the absolute best in performance per litre, go get a triple-rotary 20B 400HP race engine and standalone engine management and a Kugel retrofit kit that would normally fit in a Ford small-block.
Fab new motor mounts and subframes and you're off to the races with a new trans.
We all laugh, but you'd be damn unique AND fast as hell. Hell, you could retrofit all Mazda RX-8 parts just to ensure the wheels, axles, diff and trans all mate up nicely.
Or, just got get a used RX-7, swap the motors and change the engine management setup. ;)
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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you can do what you want to make ur car faster but even EGZ on FF wouldn't have a chance in hell in the CSCS all motor street class so just keep that in mind keep it a consistant bracket racer
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GFXjamie,Sep 16 2008, 06:11 PM Wrote:thanks for the replies so far guys, but to be honest, i dont believe its going to take that much to get even a high 14. [right][snapback]272573[/snapback][/right]
Well...good luck! :lol:
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ANTHONYD,Sep 17 2008, 09:47 AM Wrote:Buy a Subaru.
[right][snapback]272600[/snapback][/right]
thats LOW 14's. :P
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ANTHONYD,Sep 17 2008, 08:47 AM Wrote:Buy a Subaru.
[right][snapback]272600[/snapback][/right]
the best idea
i can't wait :ph34r:
2002 Ford Focus ZTS (Gave it away)
125whp/129wtq
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX with JDM 6 speed
207whp/273wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 2)13.9@99mph
320whp/330wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 3)
352whp/360wtq Dynojet
13.3@106mph
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat
2008 Honda CBR600RR "Silver Bullet" R.I.P.
2009 Honda CBR600RR "To Punish & Enslave"
2001 Honda CBR F4i Stunt bike "Burn the Rubber, not your soul"
2013 China 90cc dirt bike
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