Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Hey, my car's running rough and is a little clunky
#1
So, to fix that we use:

One (1) set of OEM replacement spark plugs
One (1) set of OEM replacement 8mm spark plug wires (Steeda wires are CRAP!)
One (1) OEM replacement coilpack
One (1) driver's side CV/half-shaft
One (1) passenger's side CV/half-shaft
One (1) OEM replacement fuel filter
One (1) K+N drop-in panel filter for the Iceman intake

The end result? The only vibration left in the car is from the engine mounts.

Next up - new winters that don't leak. I haven't had to deal with 4 slow leaks before... it's making me grumpy. Angry
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
Reply
#2
your winter leaking problem is probably due to the factory alloy wheels being used, they tend to corrode and cause leaks....

steel wheels are best for winter wheels, even tho i'm not taking my own advise and i'm rocking a set of 10 holes with snows LOL
2002 pitch black ZX3
__________________
Mach HIDs, 02 RS upper grille, Cervini's body kit, DTM drop mirrors, D2 coilovers, purple focussport strut tower bar and chrome rear bar, purple FC tb, Powerworks supercharger, optima yellow top, SVT ceramic coated header,Random Tech SVT/Zetec hi-flow cat , bosal flex, vibrant cat back with custom dual tips, b&m short throw shifter, pro-fit fuel door, shorty antenna, race-pedals.com "focus" pedals, clear 3rd brake light, SVT hvac controls, Transfer Racing billet hvac knobs, RS shift knob, RS Sparco E-brake handle, Mazda3 rear wiper, CarZone 3 piece roof wing, 17" Keskin KT4 wheels

Classic Painting
Reply
#3
Don't forget to oil spray your car people. I do it before the winter and after.
2002 Ford Focus ZTS (Gave it away)
125whp/129wtq
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX with JDM 6 speed
207whp/273wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 2)13.9@99mph
320whp/330wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 3)
352whp/360wtq Dynojet
13.3@106mph
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat
2008 Honda CBR600RR "Silver Bullet" R.I.P.
2009 Honda CBR600RR "To Punish & Enslave"
2001 Honda CBR F4i Stunt bike "Burn the Rubber, not your soul"
2013 China 90cc dirt bike
Reply
#4
Hmm, we'll see Gordo. I might just get some rims if I can find decent ones.

The Nexens are baffed, tho. Wheelspin on command in the first two gears in the wet. Sad
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
Reply
#5
(11-15-2010, 12:48 PM)NikiterZTS Wrote: Don't forget to oil spray your car people. I do it before the winter and after.

OVERKILL Tongue

I do it every 2 years and my car has 0 rust.
[Image: ncclogo.jpg]
Reply
#6
Nope, no over kill. My buddy owns an oil spraying shop and that's what they recommend. Packed salt after winter starts to eat your car right after winter time. Plus I get a deal so it fine. But it's always painful to watch when they drill holes in vehicle.
(11-15-2010, 11:31 PM)Flofocus Wrote:
(11-15-2010, 12:48 PM)NikiterZTS Wrote: Don't forget to oil spray your car people. I do it before the winter and after.

OVERKILL Tongue

I do it every 2 years and my car has 0 rust.
2002 Ford Focus ZTS (Gave it away)
125whp/129wtq
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX with JDM 6 speed
207whp/273wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 2)13.9@99mph
320whp/330wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 3)
352whp/360wtq Dynojet
13.3@106mph
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat
2008 Honda CBR600RR "Silver Bullet" R.I.P.
2009 Honda CBR600RR "To Punish & Enslave"
2001 Honda CBR F4i Stunt bike "Burn the Rubber, not your soul"
2013 China 90cc dirt bike
Reply
#7
(11-16-2010, 01:26 AM)NikiterZTS Wrote: Nope, no over kill. My buddy owns an oil spraying shop and that's what they recommend. Packed salt after winter starts to eat your car right after winter time. Plus I get a deal so it fine. But it's always painful to watch when they drill holes in vehicle.
(11-15-2010, 11:31 PM)Flofocus Wrote:
(11-15-2010, 12:48 PM)NikiterZTS Wrote: Don't forget to oil spray your car people. I do it before the winter and after.

OVERKILL Tongue

I do it every 2 years and my car has 0 rust.

i seem to keep thinking you're ottawa, am I right? If yes, where's this shop and can I get a deal too? Tongue
2003 Focus ZX5 Racecar/Perma broke/Storage
2011 Volkswagen Jetta Daily Driver
Reply
#8
(11-16-2010, 01:26 AM)NikiterZTS Wrote: Nope, no over kill. My buddy owns an oil spraying shop and that's what they recommend.

yeah it is, your bud is full of it. every shop ive gone through recommends once a year, which I find is not necessary either. You can go ahead and keep giving him money tho, its your car in the end. Wink

I invite you to find any rust on my car, you wont find any. its been done twice since 2006. The oil is still pooling around in the trunk area, and it was done in 09. Just imagine whats in my door jambs!

Shop I use doesn't drill holes at all. Uses existing drain holes and has special adapters to get into door jambs and other tight places.

Either way, only rustproof if you plan on keeping the car for a while, if you switch cars every 3-5 years, then your just making the next owner happy and not yourself. Waste of money then.
(11-16-2010, 01:29 AM)Mystake Wrote: i seem to keep thinking you're ottawa, am I right? If yes, where's this shop and can I get a deal too? Tongue

He's from the GTA. The places that I would recommend are

-Krown at AC in Rockland (Prescott Russel area)
-RustCheck at Luxe Auto Service (Orleans)
-Metropolitan Rust Proofing Inc (Nepean)

These are the ones recommended the most through the Ottawa car clubs from what I gathered.
(11-15-2010, 07:08 AM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: Next up - new winters that don't leak. I haven't had to deal with 4 slow leaks before... it's making me grumpy. Angry

What are you running for rims? My BMW had that issue and I removed the tires, sanded them rim down, repainted, re mounted and never had a leak again.
[Image: ncclogo.jpg]
Reply
#9
Thing is is that if you're diligent (Oh okay anal) about cleaning up the oil after the winter season then a fresh application yearly is a must IMO.

NefCanuck
Reply
#10
Yeah, I guess so...I dont know too many people putting their car on a hoist and taking a pressure washer with degreaser to their undercarriage though.

I clean out the engine bay almost right away after a oil spray job. well what you can see when the hood is popped open anyways.
[Image: ncclogo.jpg]
Reply
#11
(11-16-2010, 03:08 AM)Flofocus Wrote:
(11-16-2010, 01:26 AM)NikiterZTS Wrote: Nope, no over kill. My buddy owns an oil spraying shop and that's what they recommend.

yeah it is, your bud is full of it. every shop ive gone through recommends once a year, which I find is not necessary either. You can go ahead and keep giving him money tho, its your car in the end. Wink

I invite you to find any rust on my car, you wont find any. its been done twice since 2006. The oil is still pooling around in the trunk area, and it was done in 09. Just imagine whats in my door jambs!

Shop I use doesn't drill holes at all. Uses existing drain holes and has special adapters to get into door jambs and other tight places.

Either way, only rustproof if you plan on keeping the car for a while, if you switch cars every 3-5 years, then your just making the next owner happy and not yourself. Waste of money then.
(11-16-2010, 01:29 AM)Mystake Wrote: i seem to keep thinking you're ottawa, am I right? If yes, where's this shop and can I get a deal too? Tongue

He's from the GTA. The places that I would recommend are

-Krown at AC in Rockland (Prescott Russel area)
-RustCheck at Luxe Auto Service (Orleans)
-Metropolitan Rust Proofing Inc (Nepean)

These are the ones recommended the most through the Ottawa car clubs from what I gathered.
(11-15-2010, 07:08 AM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: Next up - new winters that don't leak. I haven't had to deal with 4 slow leaks before... it's making me grumpy. Angry

What are you running for rims? My BMW had that issue and I removed the tires, sanded them rim down, repainted, re mounted and never had a leak again.

He's a pretty close buddy to scam me like that. He works for his father who has been doing it for over 30 years now.
They don't have to drill holes in the car but for the best effect they really recomend it.
2002 Ford Focus ZTS (Gave it away)
125whp/129wtq
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX with JDM 6 speed
207whp/273wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 2)13.9@99mph
320whp/330wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 3)
352whp/360wtq Dynojet
13.3@106mph
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat
2008 Honda CBR600RR "Silver Bullet" R.I.P.
2009 Honda CBR600RR "To Punish & Enslave"
2001 Honda CBR F4i Stunt bike "Burn the Rubber, not your soul"
2013 China 90cc dirt bike
Reply
#12
Not to doubt what you've been told Nik, but I was told that with more recent cars the problem was that drilling holes to spray behind the panels actually caused rust to form at these new entryways. As it was described to me it was because the drilling compromised the coating on the steel used and introduced contaminants that would eventually filter down to the lowest point in the car and together with whatever moisture there was, start causing rust. (I'm not sure but I think the anti corrosion treatment at the factory is a zinc based product applied to teh steel during the manufacture)

NefCanuck
Reply
#13
^^^good point. Been taking our cars to them since 2003. Everythin has been fine. But I see where you're coming from.
2002 Ford Focus ZTS (Gave it away)
125whp/129wtq
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX with JDM 6 speed
207whp/273wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 2)13.9@99mph
320whp/330wtq Innovative tuned on Mustang dyno (Stage 3)
352whp/360wtq Dynojet
13.3@106mph
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat
2008 Honda CBR600RR "Silver Bullet" R.I.P.
2009 Honda CBR600RR "To Punish & Enslave"
2001 Honda CBR F4i Stunt bike "Burn the Rubber, not your soul"
2013 China 90cc dirt bike
Reply
#14
Nate - the factory 15" 5-spoke split-stars. I've got a decent local deal on winters, so we'll see how we do after the install on Thursday.
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)