Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Diagnosing motor mount problems
#1
I look after a 2005 SES 5-spd with 110,000 km. I am trying to figure out if I have reason to replace one or more motor mounts. Here is what I see/hear:

- I feel and hear a LOT more engine vibration in this car than in either my 2003 SE or my 2010 SE
- there is no noticeable drive-line clunk (for example, when taking off, or transitioning between on-throttle and off-throttle, or changing gear)
- I have tried prying the top (passenger side) motor mount as well as the lower rear mount (the one visible beneath the engine) and I don't see any obvious play, tearing, or leakage.
- I have not yet tried to get a look at the third motor mount

Does anyone think the excess engine vibration might be because of a bad upper motor mount? I think that one is the fluid-filled one, correct?

What are other symptoms that I should look for? Any other suggestions or obsevations?

Thanks,

Bob the Duck Canuck

Reply
#2
(12-14-2011, 01:22 AM)duckcanuck Wrote: I look after a 2005 SES 5-spd with 110,000 km. I am trying to figure out if I have reason to replace one or more motor mounts. Here is what I see/hear:

- I feel and hear a LOT more engine vibration in this car than in either my 2003 SE or my 2010 SE
- there is no noticeable drive-line clunk (for example, when taking off, or transitioning between on-throttle and off-throttle, or changing gear)
- I have tried prying the top (passenger side) motor mount as well as the lower rear mount (the one visible beneath the engine) and I don't see any obvious play, tearing, or leakage.
- I have not yet tried to get a look at the third motor mount

Does anyone think the excess engine vibration might be because of a bad upper motor mount? I think that one is the fluid-filled one, correct?

What are other symptoms that I should look for? Any other suggestions or obsevations?

Thanks,

Bob the Duck Canuck

I would be looking more into the driveline, c.v joints and so on. if not possibly a issue with the clutch.
Reply
#3
(12-14-2011, 01:39 AM)Keebz Wrote: I would be looking more into the driveline, c.v joints and so on. if not possibly a issue with the clutch.

Thanks for the suggestion.

However, maybe I wasn't clear: the engine vibrations are even noticeable sitting in the driveway in neutral, even at idle. It just feels harsh. It is even somewhat noticeable from outside the car.

The car joined the fleet two years ago, and it always felt harsher than the 2003. I originally put it down to the difference between a Zetec and the later motor in the 2005. However, my 2010 (same engine as the '05) doesn't show any of this harshness.

Bob the Duck Canuck
Reply
#4
(12-14-2011, 01:57 AM)duckcanuck Wrote:
(12-14-2011, 01:39 AM)Keebz Wrote: I would be looking more into the driveline, c.v joints and so on. if not possibly a issue with the clutch.

Thanks for the suggestion.

However, maybe I wasn't clear: the engine vibrations are even noticeable sitting in the driveway in neutral, even at idle. It just feels harsh. It is even somewhat noticeable from outside the car.

The car joined the fleet two years ago, and it always felt harsher than the 2003. I originally put it down to the difference between a Zetec and the later motor in the 2005. However, my 2010 (same engine as the '05) doesn't show any of this harshness.

Bob the Duck Canuck
I had the same problem about a year ago.
The upper mount is easy to check. Just push on the top to feel if the rubber cover is soft, liquid filled and bulges outward. If its flat or doesnt feel like there's liquid in there, its gone. Took 30 mins to change, and then couldn't even tell if the engine was running or not at idle. The lower mount is a little more harder to check i think...have a poly mount sitting in the backseat...my lower mount bolt is busted...Sad
Reply
#5
(12-15-2011, 01:13 AM)arpaul15 Wrote: I had the same problem about a year ago.
The upper mount is easy to check. Just push on the top to feel if the rubber cover is soft, liquid filled and bulges outward. If its flat or doesnt feel like there's liquid in there, its gone. Took 30 mins to change, and then couldn't even tell if the engine was running or not at idle. The lower mount is a little more harder to check i think...have a poly mount sitting in the backseat...my lower mount bolt is busted...Sad

Perfect! Thanks, this is the info I needed. I just pressed the disc and I think I can actually feel the other side (bottom). So, the magic gel probably is gone.

Now I know that I am on the right trail.

Bob the Duck Canuck
Reply
#6
Yup, if u feel something hard in there...its gone. Those things can fail relatively easy and cause all the nasty vibrations.
Reply
#7
paul is that what had caused the vibrations in your focus??

guess what I felt the other day... lol
2003 Focus ZX5 Racecar/Perma broke/Storage
2011 Volkswagen Jetta Daily Driver
Reply
#8
(12-20-2011, 04:50 PM)Mystake Wrote: paul is that what had caused the vibrations in your focus??

guess what I felt the other day... lol

Lolll luc, your question sounds a little open ended and double meaning: p . And only cuz its about vibrations haha
Well to answer your question, I hope you only felt the vibration, and not the vibrator....lol
Reply
#9
I have a manual 2003 wagon and my car was vibrating a lot at idle. When driving you can feel the engine clunk forward and backward. Took it to the mechanic and ended up being the transmission mount was almost torn in half. I don't know if the Duratec's have the same problem?
Reply
#10
(12-24-2011, 02:24 PM)eurocar fan Wrote: I have a manual 2003 wagon and my car was vibrating a lot at idle. When driving you can feel the engine clunk forward and backward. Took it to the mechanic and ended up being the transmission mount was almost torn in half. I don't know if the Duratec's have the same problem?

Thanks for this response. In my case, no clunking, just the vibration. So far, I have followed the trail given by ArPaul, and I can feel that the passenger side top mount is no longer fluid-filled. Just got the replacement part, and there is a mild day coming up shortly, so I will put that in.

If things do not improve after that, I will take a look at the transmission mount. Do you have to take the battery out to get at that one?

Bob the Duck Canuck
Reply
#11
Actually my mechanic did the work so I don't know what has to be done to perform the work?

I have spent some more time with the car since Friday and I have noticed that it is still vibrating a lot when idling from a cold start. They said the other motor mounts were fine? Not sure what else it could be. I do have a higher idle which maybe from my car running with a CEL after doing the Focus Hack for the EGR valve bypass.
Reply
#12
(12-24-2011, 02:24 PM)eurocar fan Wrote: I have a manual 2003 wagon and my car was vibrating a lot at idle. When driving you can feel the engine clunk forward and backward. Took it to the mechanic and ended up being the transmission mount was almost torn in half. I don't know if the Duratec's have the same problem?



ffs my car feels like that too - except I described it more as kinda like the clutch was bouncing.

i was just gunna do /all/ the mounts over this summer but I'm thinking of skipping ahead and doing just this one.


Anyone else know how hard that one was to do?


edit: and paul, thanks for not answering my question, at all. Lol
2003 Focus ZX5 Racecar/Perma broke/Storage
2011 Volkswagen Jetta Daily Driver
Reply
#13
(12-28-2011, 12:06 PM)eurocar fan Wrote: Actually my mechanic did the work so I don't know what has to be done to perform the work?

I have spent some more time with the car since Friday and I have noticed that it is still vibrating a lot when idling from a cold start. They said the other motor mounts were fine? Not sure what else it could be. I do have a higher idle which maybe from my car running with a CEL after doing the Focus Hack for the EGR valve bypass.

OK, thanks. I completed the passenger-side mount replacement a couple of days ago, and it has made a big difference to the car. I think I diagnosed the correct problem. The install went OK, except for having to adjust the jack under the motor a couple of times to get things to line up for removal or re-installation. Two sets of eyes helped at those moments. Oh, plus the fact that the nuts on the motor end were 18 mm - what a stupid odd-ball size.

By the way, the Haynes manual makes the transmission mount look like a fairly straight-forward repair also. I'll check that one in the springtime, but for now the car does not show any clunking, so I guess it is fine.

Bob the Duck Canuck
Reply
#14
Yea the dogbone is also fairly straight forward... Only problem I had with mine when I swapped bushings was getting the bolts to line up again... What a pain that was... A little patience goes a long ways!!!
07 ST 23D • MBRP 2.25 cat-back • cfm 67mm TB • K&n Typhoon • Massive poly dogbone insert • Massive BSD • FRPP Dynamic springs & struts • carbon fibre shift boot & brake boot • SVT HVAC controls • steeda short throw shifter • Tinted w/ brow • SOON TO BE BOOSTED •
Reply
#15
Anyone got the part numbers for all three mounts? My 05 definitely needs some tlc, and this is a good start I think.
'14 Escape 2.0t
2012 5dr Ti : Traded
Reply


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Passenger Motor Mount done? reldridge 12 5,083 03-19-2013, 07:56 AM
Last Post: dBlast
  Rear motor mount bolt wouldn't budge! arpaul15 22 7,790 07-07-2011, 09:43 AM
Last Post: BluByU

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)