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So I'm sitting here at work, waiting away while my amp is getting installed over at one of the audio places here in North Bay, Shark Mobile if you need to know, and I though, will I need to get a capacitor installed as well for my setup? All I have is a 300W Alpine Amp... I know its not a big deal to install a capacitor, wiring wise. But is it worth it? Will the 300W draw kill my alternator sometime down the road?
Would it also be needed to do a "Big Three"?
:unsure:
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Oscar The Grouch,Apr 15 2005, 12:00 PM Wrote:So I'm sitting here at work, waiting away while my amp is getting installed over at one of the audio places here in North Bay, Shark Mobile if you need to know, and I though, will I need to get a capacitor installed as well for my setup? All I have is a 300W Alpine Amp... I know its not a big deal to install a capacitor, wiring wise. But is it worth it? Will the 300W draw kill my alternator sometime down the road?
Would it also be needed to do a "Big Three"?
:unsure:
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I've been running a 340w amp without a cap for 2 years. The only time I had a problem was when I didn't ground it properly. I think a cap for anything less than 500w is overkill. I'm planning on adding a second 300w amp maybe come July/August... in which case I obviously would wanna use a cap, but you don't need one with just a little 300w...
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Raine,Apr 15 2005, 12:43 PM Wrote:I've been running a 340w amp without a cap for 2 years. The only time I had a problem was when I didn't ground it properly. I think a cap for anything less than 500w is overkill. I'm planning on adding a second 300w amp maybe come July/August... in which case I obviously would wanna use a cap, but you don't need one with just a little 300w...
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Like Raine said, you don't need a cap for the little power that the amp gives. But, it's not a bad idea to but one to save some power for something else. But If I where you I wouldn't go buy one.
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Every 1 Farad capcitance is good for 1000W peak. I wouldn't bother with a cap at all. I have one 500W RMS amp and another 300W RMS amp in my system. Last summer I ran it with no cap and it seemed alright. This summer I added in a cap just to help the alternator and battery out!
I don't think you'll need one!
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Yeah you problably don't need a cap. But the "big three" would be a good little insurance, and defineately costs less than a cap.
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skifreak69,Apr 15 2005, 07:34 PM Wrote:Yeah you problably don't need a cap. But the "big three" would be a good little insurance, and defineately costs less than a cap.
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I new I forgot something. Do the big three it really helps!
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I'm running about 800W rms and i've never used a cap! It will not hurt but, I don't think they are necessary until you are at the 1000W RMS level!! Even then, if your car is newer, such as the Focus' it won't kill anything...
I personally wouldn't even bother with a cap unless you go really big output!
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microbunny,Apr 16 2005, 09:19 AM Wrote:I'm running about 800W rms and i've never used a cap! It will not hurt but, I don't think they are necessary until you are at the 1000W RMS level!! Even then, if your car is newer, such as the Focus' it won't kill anything...
I personally wouldn't even bother with a cap unless you go really big output!
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Thanks for the help guys.
I got the system installed yesterday and I'll post pics ASAP.
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Meh, Cap's are for suckers.... technically im running 1000rms+ with 3 amps for my temporary system, and theres no real drain on the car. meh, i honestly havent noticed a difference with or without my cap.
fyi... with my next setup 3000wrms i wont be using a cap :D
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04-21-2005, 06:56 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-21-2005, 06:57 AM by NoiSeeVT.)
I have 2300 watts RMS running and the focuses electrical system seems to holding up so far, I havent wired in the caps yet but since I have them Ill use them, but then again wattage isnt always the indicator, check how much amperage you are drawing, Im drawing at a peak bass note upwards of 360amps and what the cap does is allows the system at that draw to maintain voltage for short burts, what you will find is that if you run your system with out caps and have a ton of draw that your system will lose dbs.
David
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I cheated. i have a redtop sitting in my trunk. waiting to be wired up, once the HIoutput alt comes in :lol:
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scoobasteve,Apr 20 2005, 05:43 PM Wrote:I cheated. i have a redtop sitting in my trunk. waiting to be wired up, once the HIoutput alt comes in :lol:
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That's a good idea. Where can we get better-than-stock alternators for the Focus?
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I gots me a yellow top. That makes quite a difference as well as teh Zero gauge ground upgrades.
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Im getting mine off IRAGGI Alternator.... he builds alts for competition vehicles. but luckily he makes one for the focus.
he has 2 lines
the dominator line... 90 amp idle 180,200,220 amp max
and
the ampuator line... 150amp idle, 200,220 amp max.
personally im going with the ampuator 220amp
but then i found out he has a 260amp model that goes for about 600us.
Then again, these are all for the ZETEC. i'm not too sure what they have for the spi.
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NOS2Go4Me,Apr 20 2005, 10:23 PM Wrote:That's a good idea. Where can we get better-than-stock alternators for the Focus?
For almost all applications, the stock alternator on the Focus is more than adequate. I've driven vehicles with sub 100A alternators that handles 1000+ watt systems. Our alternators are not a weak link, but the wires under our hoods are. If you're using a 1/0 guage power cable, and an 8 guage wire for your battery ground, you have a huge bottleneck.
Go buy some bulk runs or 1/0AWG welding cable, it's really cheap. It has a thick sleeve and it's copper, the only things you need to worry about with power wire. Buy some beefy ends and clap them on, then go through your wiring under the hood and replace your ground, your engine/chassis ground, and your main alternator power cable with the bigger wire. Now welding cable uses a low strand count so it's not overly flexible, but it really doesn't need to be for this application so it's perfect and the price is right. Run the cable to the ass of the car The end result is better current flow to and from the battery and alternator, making the purchase of a cap pointless.
Think about it, if you add a cap to the system, it needs charging. What charges that cap? Your alternator. In the end, the cap is just another strain on the whole system.
As for beefier alternators, and Optima batteries. If it's time for a replacement because the old one is shot, or you want the battery as aa partial aesthetic mod, then by all means it's never a bad Iidea to upgrade. But until then, stock equipment in our case is more than adequate.
Luke.
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caps are like band aids, they dont fix anything. They will just cause more damage in the long haul to your stock alt./battery. I suggest the big three first, but a battery is always a good start. i dont believe in caps one bit. ive ran a 1200w rms and and a 300w rms amp with no cap and no big three on stock bat/alt. with little dimming. bass never missed a beat! heh
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