[Paparoach]

Okay guys looks like I am going to bite the bullet and buy some cams for the car.

I have a mechanic that will be installing it for me (I love working at a dealership). But he wants to make sure I have everything I need and possible instructions since he has never worked on the Focus before. So for the guys that have done this is it possible to get some step by step instructions and the tools required. Also if I need any other parts. I am not installing the gears right now since a dyno run is far off. By the way I am buying stage 2 Cranes if that helps.

So if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated.

[french_connection]

-lift valve cover
-lossen timing belt tensionner with halen key and key.
-slip timing belt off the gear.
-remove the old cams.
-remove passenger wheel to access crank bolt. (crank pulley)
-check for tdc with either a long stick, or with the udp check mark downward at 6oclock.
-instal the gear on the new cams.
-lub new cams
-put new cams in with proper torque... (i think its 18 nm) double check.
-use cam tools or make a metal plate that fit in the cam slots to line them both up. (I have been found using the most unortodox crap for that myself...)
-put the belt back on.
-retension the belt.
-put valve cover back on.
-start and enjoy.


I think it sum it all up. double check for the torque of the "cams bridges"?

-marc

[french_connection]

that is all assuming that the cams you buy dont need valves shims.

i.e. drop in cams. :)

[Paparoach]

Kewl if anyone else has something to add feel free :D

[2001 ZTS]

I had Jay do mine a couple weeks ago along with a few other go-fast(er) parts. There are a couple torx bits you will need. I wrote a list but did you think I can find it?

There is a special tool for holding it at TDC but I guess a stick works too. We had the metal bar for the shafts too. Went very quickly

Having now seen it done I think even I could do it.

You'll need to find the ft-lbs for the cam gears.

[Oldfocus]

You will also need a good set of feeler guages to check valve lash.

In addition, if you select a cam with lift over .400" you will need to enlarge the cam pockets in the head for clearance. This requires milling a significant amount of aluminum out of the head.

Also be aware, that with lift over .400" you may very well need to replace springs and retainers. This has nothing to do with valve float. The fact is, with high lift, the cam may compress the valve springs solid before they have completely opened the valve. If the this happens you can break the cam and/or the valve retainer and possibly punch the valve into the cylinder.

Compounding this problem is the fact that Ford didn't manufacture the heads to high tolerences, and a number of spring seats have been found to be higher than they should be. This additional height contributes to reduced spring compression distance.

Hope this helps.