[Honkeytonk Monkey]

^^^In that shot it looks like you connected your battery ground to the upper radiator support, isn't that part made of plastic? You'll still be getting a ground from your factory cable still being there. The best ground point I've found is the upper shock tower area near the transaxle side motor mount, try not to connect the main ground to a part that bolts to the unibody, but to an integral part of the car's unibody.



I'll get some more shots of the battery relo at some point, but this is how I ran my distribution. The Battry negative ducks under the battery tray to the shock tower point I noted. I'll pull the tray and get a shot of that grounding point as well. In my case it no longer matters ads my battery in in my spare tire well, but that was the grounding point I used before the relo.

With the engine off, and the stereo playing at normal levels I still read 12.8-13.2V on the voltmeter, with the engine running with full A/C and all the lights on I read between 14.2-14.8.

The biggest bonus you get from the big three is the end of headlight dimming while running the system. I have underdrive pulleys on my car, and a deep cycle battery, but even so the car had a terrible tendency to shake at red lights, expecially with the headlights/fog lights on at the same time. After doing this, even with the A/C on full blast, the stereo running, and all the lights on, the car idles smoothly and the headlights don't dim whatsoever.