Hi, Guest
The best way I found to get a home inspector was to get one my co-workers recommneded - someone who has been used by several folks prior to our purchase.
The big things are as mentioned already - your foundation, exterior walls and roof. The rest is semantics (except for plumbing and wiring).
Watch for "minor" variances like double-tapped breakers (not common in new homes, but you never know) - these things tend to happen as overly ambitious renovators decide to not add a new breaker or three to the panel to "save time". Also, be wary of recently completed water-drawing areas - a new basement bathroom, jacuzzi, etc. They may have opened a can of worms during the install and now they're passing on the headaches to you.
Check the lie and grade of your property... obviously if you have any areas around the foundation where the land slopes in towards your walls, you're going to want to make sure the weeping tiles are clear, the sump works and that ultimately you landscape it if possible to remove/minimize the chance of erosion and foundation damage.
Check the windows for interior insulation gaps. Pull the interior trim off one window if possible and check the insulation levels. Make sure you can't feel wind or see daylight. This can also be done easily with a flashlight and a friend. Most home inspectors run the gamut from caring about window fitment to "it's there, it can't be bad".
Inspect the exterior of the foundation for recent parging and other adjustments. How high does your block wall run above ground before you hit brick/siding? Is it uniform all the way down the house (grade of property notwithstanding).
Take a small pocket level with you and check the trueness of random doorways. Watch for warping and "off kilter" entrances. If they're out of square, ask yourself what else could they have rushed?
Just a few thoughts. :)
The big things are as mentioned already - your foundation, exterior walls and roof. The rest is semantics (except for plumbing and wiring).
Watch for "minor" variances like double-tapped breakers (not common in new homes, but you never know) - these things tend to happen as overly ambitious renovators decide to not add a new breaker or three to the panel to "save time". Also, be wary of recently completed water-drawing areas - a new basement bathroom, jacuzzi, etc. They may have opened a can of worms during the install and now they're passing on the headaches to you.
Check the lie and grade of your property... obviously if you have any areas around the foundation where the land slopes in towards your walls, you're going to want to make sure the weeping tiles are clear, the sump works and that ultimately you landscape it if possible to remove/minimize the chance of erosion and foundation damage.
Check the windows for interior insulation gaps. Pull the interior trim off one window if possible and check the insulation levels. Make sure you can't feel wind or see daylight. This can also be done easily with a flashlight and a friend. Most home inspectors run the gamut from caring about window fitment to "it's there, it can't be bad".
Inspect the exterior of the foundation for recent parging and other adjustments. How high does your block wall run above ground before you hit brick/siding? Is it uniform all the way down the house (grade of property notwithstanding).
Take a small pocket level with you and check the trueness of random doorways. Watch for warping and "off kilter" entrances. If they're out of square, ask yourself what else could they have rushed?
Just a few thoughts. :)
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.