Hi, Guest
02-15-2011, 06:19 AM
For sway bar links, some folks recommend the MOOG ones. They are greasable, and so should outlast the factory items:
MOOG Part # K80066 {Sway Bar Link Kit}. Apparently Rockauto.com has them. I'm sure there is a Canadian source too.
(If you choose to get the ford parts, be sure to buy new nuts, because the thread pitch is different on the replacement parts)
Tie Rod ends are not difficult to replace. First, clean up the threads on the steering arm/rod (from the rack) and then use two wrenches to slightly back off the nut that locks the outer tie rod end to the rod. The hard part is separating the old tie rod end from the "upright" (hub carrier). Personally, I use a short handled 4-lb sledge hammer. I back the nut off until it is flush with the end of the threads, and then give it one or two good hits with the sledge. It usually pops right off. Foci are easier than some, because the nut is on top, so you are swinging the sledge down. You can improve the odds by sticking a jack stand under the hub carrier before you hit it. There also is a special tool for this, called a pickle fork, but the sledge has worked for me on a lot of Fords.
I'm not sure about the rad support. Sometimes such things can be bent back just with a good 2X4 or a pair of giant (20 inch) water pump pliers. Sometimes heat is required to soften the metal first. I'm sure other folks on this list have real experience with that part, I do not.
If you can get into a heated underground parking, that would be great. You may want to plan the work in phases, so you can keep the car drivable.
Bob
MOOG Part # K80066 {Sway Bar Link Kit}. Apparently Rockauto.com has them. I'm sure there is a Canadian source too.
(If you choose to get the ford parts, be sure to buy new nuts, because the thread pitch is different on the replacement parts)
Tie Rod ends are not difficult to replace. First, clean up the threads on the steering arm/rod (from the rack) and then use two wrenches to slightly back off the nut that locks the outer tie rod end to the rod. The hard part is separating the old tie rod end from the "upright" (hub carrier). Personally, I use a short handled 4-lb sledge hammer. I back the nut off until it is flush with the end of the threads, and then give it one or two good hits with the sledge. It usually pops right off. Foci are easier than some, because the nut is on top, so you are swinging the sledge down. You can improve the odds by sticking a jack stand under the hub carrier before you hit it. There also is a special tool for this, called a pickle fork, but the sledge has worked for me on a lot of Fords.
I'm not sure about the rad support. Sometimes such things can be bent back just with a good 2X4 or a pair of giant (20 inch) water pump pliers. Sometimes heat is required to soften the metal first. I'm sure other folks on this list have real experience with that part, I do not.
If you can get into a heated underground parking, that would be great. You may want to plan the work in phases, so you can keep the car drivable.
Bob