Hi, Guest
04-20-2012, 11:12 PM
Stupid question, did you check the oil pump and wiring connections for the oil pressure sensor on the current engine? I'm suspecting that if you did track days with that engine and oil sloshed around without a baffle, the pump may have run dry a few times (which probably isn't good for it). I'd drop the oil pan and take a look before going any further in the rebuild process.
If you're going to rebuild the other engine, tear it apart yourself and bring the cylinder head assembly (springs, valves, seals all intact) along with the block bare to the rebuilder. The more broken down the engine, the more cash you save (although not sure if they will hold warranty for the repairs). Have them check for warpage and pressure testing the head. If all is good, this is a good time for upgrading, cylinder boring, deck shaving (or whatever you want to do). I'd suggest if you go this route, have the engine rebuilder assemble the engine back together to ensure that timing isn't screwed up.
Just to let you know, I do have a bias for sending this to the rebuilder as my dad's been an engine rebuilder for 30 years, but as stated, you can do a lot of the work yourself. Just maybe before you start, talk to a good shop before going any further to discuss cost/warranty/liability.
If you're going to rebuild the other engine, tear it apart yourself and bring the cylinder head assembly (springs, valves, seals all intact) along with the block bare to the rebuilder. The more broken down the engine, the more cash you save (although not sure if they will hold warranty for the repairs). Have them check for warpage and pressure testing the head. If all is good, this is a good time for upgrading, cylinder boring, deck shaving (or whatever you want to do). I'd suggest if you go this route, have the engine rebuilder assemble the engine back together to ensure that timing isn't screwed up.
Just to let you know, I do have a bias for sending this to the rebuilder as my dad's been an engine rebuilder for 30 years, but as stated, you can do a lot of the work yourself. Just maybe before you start, talk to a good shop before going any further to discuss cost/warranty/liability.
Sold:2001 SE 2.0L SPI w/60mm TB, Steeda Shorty Intake.
Active: 2007 SES Hatch, Motegi MR7 Rims with 215/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, debadged, black painted calipers and drums, RS Knob, CFM Short Throw, Billet E-Brake, CFM Focus pedals, MBRP Exhaust, XCal2, FS Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Diamond Plate Floor Mats and Sills, Alpine MP3 Deck, Alpine V-Power 300w Amp, Pioneer IMPP Sub, AlpineType-S door speakers, VF Engineering Rear Motor Mount, F2 RS Spoiler, Tokico D-spec shocks, HTP Cross Brace, EBC Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Russell SS Brake Lines, RS Wheel, SVT Blue Seats, Vibrant 2.5" Race Highflow Cat, CFM UDP. Rear SVT bumper to come.
Active: 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited TJ [LJ], Volant CAI, 32" BFG Mud Terrains, and a whole bunch of goodies.
Active: 2007 SES Hatch, Motegi MR7 Rims with 215/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, debadged, black painted calipers and drums, RS Knob, CFM Short Throw, Billet E-Brake, CFM Focus pedals, MBRP Exhaust, XCal2, FS Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Diamond Plate Floor Mats and Sills, Alpine MP3 Deck, Alpine V-Power 300w Amp, Pioneer IMPP Sub, AlpineType-S door speakers, VF Engineering Rear Motor Mount, F2 RS Spoiler, Tokico D-spec shocks, HTP Cross Brace, EBC Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Russell SS Brake Lines, RS Wheel, SVT Blue Seats, Vibrant 2.5" Race Highflow Cat, CFM UDP. Rear SVT bumper to come.
Active: 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited TJ [LJ], Volant CAI, 32" BFG Mud Terrains, and a whole bunch of goodies.
