07-22-2005, 12:16 AM
*smack*
This is why you come visit. With coffee.
UDP for sure. It makes the most sense - it's the cheapest 10 BHP you can "bolt-on" to the SPI. Make sure you get the smaller belt.
Cam is a nice idea, and the medium cam from EF.com looks good. The downside is the overall cost, as they recommend that you get the new lifters, springs, seals and retainers. At that point, you'd pretty much need a re-flash and a couple of dyno pulls to get the tune right before you hit the road again. My reservation with that is that there's no-one around that I'd trust with that level of tuning... save Steeda - and they're not that familiar with SPIs. Just calling it as I see it.
The only SPI shorty header available has a messed firing order. You're better off with a header from a 89-91 Escort GT with a few tweaks. The Magnaflow hi-flow cat is a better idea.. a few extra horses, but beware as there's the possibility of a rice shower from the noise.
Suspension's a smart upgrade, and I'm still leaning towards the SVT retrofit. Again, with a full install you'll need extra work (4-wheel alignment) and that's extra cost. If the car's lower, you're going to want a shop that will align it right. So far, Anthony has found one of the only places specializing in lowered cars that I've seen.
Coil / wires - I still say nah. Only after everything else is done to the motor, because the factory replacement 8mms are great from what I can tell. I'd go NGK Iridiums and 8mm replacements.
This is why you come visit. With coffee.
UDP for sure. It makes the most sense - it's the cheapest 10 BHP you can "bolt-on" to the SPI. Make sure you get the smaller belt.
Cam is a nice idea, and the medium cam from EF.com looks good. The downside is the overall cost, as they recommend that you get the new lifters, springs, seals and retainers. At that point, you'd pretty much need a re-flash and a couple of dyno pulls to get the tune right before you hit the road again. My reservation with that is that there's no-one around that I'd trust with that level of tuning... save Steeda - and they're not that familiar with SPIs. Just calling it as I see it.
The only SPI shorty header available has a messed firing order. You're better off with a header from a 89-91 Escort GT with a few tweaks. The Magnaflow hi-flow cat is a better idea.. a few extra horses, but beware as there's the possibility of a rice shower from the noise.
Suspension's a smart upgrade, and I'm still leaning towards the SVT retrofit. Again, with a full install you'll need extra work (4-wheel alignment) and that's extra cost. If the car's lower, you're going to want a shop that will align it right. So far, Anthony has found one of the only places specializing in lowered cars that I've seen.
Coil / wires - I still say nah. Only after everything else is done to the motor, because the factory replacement 8mms are great from what I can tell. I'd go NGK Iridiums and 8mm replacements.
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.