Hi, Guest
04-11-2006, 03:51 AM
New intake (short ram or cold air) - great for adding some snarl under the hood, a couple extra HP and potentially better-than-stock or same-as-stock fuel economy while improving driveability. Difficulty of the mod/install - 3 out of 10 for the 00-04, looks to be a 4.5 for the 05/06 due to space constraints.
New exhaust - the stock exhaust is pretty restrictive. A new exhaust will allow you to free up some more power, at the expense of a bit of fuel economy and low-end torque. Gains - most good ones are stainless steel, catalytic-back systems which will likely outlast the rest of the car. Difficulty - 5 out of 10 if you don't have a hoist and power tools, 2 out of 10 for the MBRP with a hoist and power tools / air tools handy.
UDP - a great mod for "freeing the beast", as it adds a lot of revvability to the engine and normally adds (restores?) 3-6 HP, potentially more depending on the percentage of the underdriving of the accessories. Most common kits are a 25% underdrive, mine happens to be a 50%. Beware - idling with a "race" underdrive pulley kit for extended periods can run down your battery as your alternator isn't driving hard enough at idle. Especially when the headlights are on. Consider that before jumping to the most extreme UDP available. Most manufacturers of these kits recommend you have air tools and some decent car knowledge before attempting the mod. Difficulty - 4 out of 10 if you're not a mechanic (me), less if you're quite adept.
New chip / X-calibrator / ECU reflash - best done after you've got your car to where it will stay forever and ever and ever. You could easily add 10% to your overall output as well as improve fuel economy, but should you change something significant performance-wise... RETUNE! Requires that you add a chip to your ECU or connect an ECU flasher (X-calibrator) to your OBD port. Difficulty - 3 out of 10 for the chip, 2 out of 10 for the X-cal.
Suspension - nothing's funnier than sticking it to a faster car in the twisties. Suspension upgrades are technically easy, but they require a full 4-wheel alignment after the install for maximum performance, reliability/longevity of all parts concerned and tire care/wear. You'll need some power tools, good sockets, spring compressors and patience. I have none of the last item, so I'm getting a shop to do my install. Difficulty - no idea, never done it. Assuming it to be a 4 out of 10 from what I've read, but those are technically-inclined members.
Throttle body upgrades - more potential airflow, with the expectation that the engine can use the extra air. TBs also greatly improve throttle response, as most stock TBs feel as though you're commanding the car through a bowl of Cheerios. 4 out of 10 for difficulty. Some TBs need an adapter plate for the autos for 2000-04 stock, not sure about the 05/06 stuff.
Strut tower upgrade - it reduces twist in the unibody when starting a corner at speed. For day-to-day work they're invisible. Expect more catcalls if it's neon pink. Difficulty - 2 out of 10 (and only if a nut is seized). Park on a level surface. Unbolt as many strut nuts as need be for the strut bar. Place over strut bolts protruding through strut tower. Bolt back down with existing nuts. Done.
There's others, but I need to get back to work. :D
New exhaust - the stock exhaust is pretty restrictive. A new exhaust will allow you to free up some more power, at the expense of a bit of fuel economy and low-end torque. Gains - most good ones are stainless steel, catalytic-back systems which will likely outlast the rest of the car. Difficulty - 5 out of 10 if you don't have a hoist and power tools, 2 out of 10 for the MBRP with a hoist and power tools / air tools handy.
UDP - a great mod for "freeing the beast", as it adds a lot of revvability to the engine and normally adds (restores?) 3-6 HP, potentially more depending on the percentage of the underdriving of the accessories. Most common kits are a 25% underdrive, mine happens to be a 50%. Beware - idling with a "race" underdrive pulley kit for extended periods can run down your battery as your alternator isn't driving hard enough at idle. Especially when the headlights are on. Consider that before jumping to the most extreme UDP available. Most manufacturers of these kits recommend you have air tools and some decent car knowledge before attempting the mod. Difficulty - 4 out of 10 if you're not a mechanic (me), less if you're quite adept.
New chip / X-calibrator / ECU reflash - best done after you've got your car to where it will stay forever and ever and ever. You could easily add 10% to your overall output as well as improve fuel economy, but should you change something significant performance-wise... RETUNE! Requires that you add a chip to your ECU or connect an ECU flasher (X-calibrator) to your OBD port. Difficulty - 3 out of 10 for the chip, 2 out of 10 for the X-cal.
Suspension - nothing's funnier than sticking it to a faster car in the twisties. Suspension upgrades are technically easy, but they require a full 4-wheel alignment after the install for maximum performance, reliability/longevity of all parts concerned and tire care/wear. You'll need some power tools, good sockets, spring compressors and patience. I have none of the last item, so I'm getting a shop to do my install. Difficulty - no idea, never done it. Assuming it to be a 4 out of 10 from what I've read, but those are technically-inclined members.
Throttle body upgrades - more potential airflow, with the expectation that the engine can use the extra air. TBs also greatly improve throttle response, as most stock TBs feel as though you're commanding the car through a bowl of Cheerios. 4 out of 10 for difficulty. Some TBs need an adapter plate for the autos for 2000-04 stock, not sure about the 05/06 stuff.
Strut tower upgrade - it reduces twist in the unibody when starting a corner at speed. For day-to-day work they're invisible. Expect more catcalls if it's neon pink. Difficulty - 2 out of 10 (and only if a nut is seized). Park on a level surface. Unbolt as many strut nuts as need be for the strut bar. Place over strut bolts protruding through strut tower. Bolt back down with existing nuts. Done.
There's others, but I need to get back to work. :D
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.