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Replacing Rear Drums.shoes And Wheel Studs
#1
So from my weekend trip to Montreal I got a screw in my tire giving me a slow leak. When I got home Monday I went to pop the donut on and in doing so I snapped 2 wheel studs off in the process. These things snap like twigs on these cars, I already snapped one on the front before. The wheels were torqued properly and yes I was turning it the right way.... anyways


has anyone ever had to replace the rear studs? I can find the how to for the fronts but not the back and I'd rather attempt it myself and at the same time I was going to replace the rear shoes. Any help is appreciated!

Thanks
***want to buy***
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#2
bc its not worth it!

I dont know how old your car is but you will need a rear bearing soon. So mind as well do all that at once.

Rear drums are about 90 each i think. just reaplce the drums. It comes with new bearing and new studs :D


if not, i guess you have to take the drum out and pop the studs off of it. It could take a while and it the process you might bent the drunk and screw more things up.
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--Henry Ford


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#3
Interesting... I was quoted 250 to replace the shoes and machine the drums... I guess replacing the entire unit would be much better and easier if what you say is true


:ph34r:
***want to buy***
MBRP................ check
SCT Xcal2 ........ check
VF mounts
Adj. Dampers ... check
Meford's Mom.... sale pending
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#4
well, i was saying each

so it will be 90+90+ plus shoes(i cant remember how much )
"Coming together is a beginning, staying together is progress, and working together is success."
--Henry Ford


00 Focus ZX3 Silver- Sold
01 Focus ZX3 Green- Sold
01 Focus ZTS Red- Sold
03 Focus ZTW Green Sold
04 Escape LTD Silver- Sold
05 Freestyle LTD Black-Sold
02 Honda CRV EX-L-Sold
02 VW Jetta GLS TDI Silver-Sold

11 VW Jetta TDI 6spd Mine Smile
10 VW Golf Highline DSG- wrote off Sad


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#5
replacing the studs is easy .. i think i've done just about everyone on my drums

all you need to do is take the drum off .. hammer out the old studs .. then apply alittle red loctite to the bottom of the new stud .. put it in the hole, and put a couple washers on it then the wheel nut .... and tighten it as much as you can till its pulled the stud all the way in

should only take 3mins per stud .. if that
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#6
schade,May 24 2006, 12:21 AM Wrote:replacing the studs is easy .. i think i've done just about everyone on my drums

all you need to do is take the drum off .. hammer out the old studs .. then apply alittle red loctite to the bottom of the new stud .. put it in the hole, and put a couple washers on it then the wheel nut .... and tighten it as much as you can till its pulled the stud all the way in

should only take 3mins per stud .. if that
[right][snapback]189095[/snapback][/right]


DO you remember if it is 42 or 47mm studs for the back??
***want to buy***
MBRP................ check
SCT Xcal2 ........ check
VF mounts
Adj. Dampers ... check
Meford's Mom.... sale pending
Reply
#7
doesn't matter ... they only list part numbers for the front .. and they fit the rears fine

another option is finding studs from ARP .. there alot stronger and you won't have to worry about them breaking again
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#8
bah too late I picked up some studs at the dealership.. $15 for 2. He tried to sell me some nuts too but at $9 EACH I told them a better use for them. Where did you pick up your ARP studs??
***want to buy***
MBRP................ check
SCT Xcal2 ........ check
VF mounts
Adj. Dampers ... check
Meford's Mom.... sale pending
Reply
#9
i didn't get the arp's yet .. but you can get them from PI .. or online even

most of the track people have switched to them
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#10
nass,May 24 2006, 07:20 PM Wrote:bah too late I picked up some studs at the dealership.. $15 for 2. He tried to sell me some nuts too but at $9 EACH I told them a better use for them. Where did you pick up your ARP studs??
[right][snapback]189326[/snapback][/right]

9$ may be expensive, but to pull the studs into the drum, you really hace to tighen the nuts alot, tight enough to maybe damage the nut. so, i used the old nuts to pull the studs thru, and new ones to mount the wheel.

Also, i dont know if it was mentioned, but the drum and bearing can come off as one piece. There are four bolts that you can undo from the back. This way you dont have to undo that realy big nut (the one that only has limited uses) underneath that dust shield. Doing it this way u can replace both the studs and the shoes.

search around, there should be better write up on how to do this, then my half assed comments.

edit: found some with diagrams http://www.teamfocus.us/rearbrakedrum.htm
http://www.teamfocus.us/rearbrakeshoes.htm
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#11
thanks for the links, I checked those out when I was thinking of doing this myself... those 4 bolts had about 5 years worth of rust on them and nothing I had would bust them loose. In theory I could have used a friend's air tools but I just wanted it done right away.
***want to buy***
MBRP................ check
SCT Xcal2 ........ check
VF mounts
Adj. Dampers ... check
Meford's Mom.... sale pending
Reply
#12
Honestly , just go get some new brake drums , they are about 80 bucks a piece and come with new bearings and studs, is it really worth the time to replace those bolts with hours of labour and then your not even sure its safe ? I for one would just spend the 80 bucks that gets you a new drum bearing and studs, easy to install and you know its new and safe. Just my 2 cents man
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#13
new bolts are $2/each and about 10 mins labour ... new drums are $140 each

and replacing the studs is just as safe as any other option you can think off
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