Hi, Guest
10-21-2006, 03:45 AM
OK I should probably let the cat out of the bag: I swapped an SVT intake onto a Zetec. For the money and time involved, the best mod to date. I previously ran a ported Y2K intake which, at the time, was the best mod as far as improvements to performance.
I picked up the setup from a local source and fabbed up the missing pieces from Mopac Auto Parts and from bits and pieces I had in the garage.
Pictures, you want pictures, well OK....
![[Image: Im005748.jpg]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/02ztsian/Im005748.jpg)
The DSI switch, mounted to the DS outer frame rail with a home-made bracket, running the cable through an existing hole in the unibody.
![[Image: Im005749.jpg]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/02ztsian/Im005749.jpg)
An MSD 8950 RPM switch to control the DSI. The RPM switch has both a power and a ground controller so you can either turn something on or off at a set rpm. (I think I may use the power on controller to turn on a light in the dash, so I know when Zetec kicks in, yo!).
![[Image: Im005747.jpg]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/02ztsian/Im005747.jpg)
The MSD switch uses "pills" (just resistors, actually) to set the rpm at which the switch will engage/disengage. But, being the cheap Scot that I am, I wired in a potientiometer from Circuit City to have the ability to adjust the rpm switchover point. The plastic box I had in my games box. Just need a knob for fine tuning, but right now it's set to switch at ab. 4900 rpm.
![[Image: Im005785A.jpg]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/02ztsian/Im005785A.jpg)
I wire loomed all the wiring, and am pulling key-on power from two wires going into the fuse box from underneath. (Not sure if the wording is large enough to read)
The finished product.
![[Image: Im005782.jpg]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/02ztsian/Im005782.jpg)
![[Image: Im005783.jpg]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/02ztsian/Im005783.jpg)
![[Image: Im005784.jpg]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c272/02ztsian/Im005784.jpg)
The short-ram intake I made from the left-over stock intake tubing. I used the stock MAF and housing, the SVT AIC and the SVT throttle body.
I have been trying to fix an erratic idle problem since I finished the install. So far I have made up a AIC restrictor from thin sheet metal cut to match the IAC module with two 5/32" holes drilled in it. So far that has fixed the idle, bringing it down to ab. 950 or so. It also cured the tendancy of the engine to rev higher as I clutch in when shifting.
Looks stock, drives stock, with no issues at all. Good driveability in stop and go traffic. A bit of flutter at 2000 rpm but thats normal for SVT's from what I read.
Once you get into the throttle, however, and that's when the fun starts. More torque at lower rpms than the Y2K, and you sure know when the short runners engage. It pulls HARD from 5000-7000, very quickly as well. Still smiling just thinking about it! :D
Bottom line, the best money I have spent by far. And cost? About $310 total money out the door. Three days spent leisurly working on it but that was due to the fabrication needed. I did all the wiring first, getting the DSI mounted and working first then tearing into the hard stuff. So, unless someone has this setup, I lay claim to the only working SVT intake swap in Canada. HOOOYAAAA!
P.S. Anyone who wants help or more info on this swap I am more than happy to help out.
I picked up the setup from a local source and fabbed up the missing pieces from Mopac Auto Parts and from bits and pieces I had in the garage.
Pictures, you want pictures, well OK....
The DSI switch, mounted to the DS outer frame rail with a home-made bracket, running the cable through an existing hole in the unibody.
An MSD 8950 RPM switch to control the DSI. The RPM switch has both a power and a ground controller so you can either turn something on or off at a set rpm. (I think I may use the power on controller to turn on a light in the dash, so I know when Zetec kicks in, yo!).
The MSD switch uses "pills" (just resistors, actually) to set the rpm at which the switch will engage/disengage. But, being the cheap Scot that I am, I wired in a potientiometer from Circuit City to have the ability to adjust the rpm switchover point. The plastic box I had in my games box. Just need a knob for fine tuning, but right now it's set to switch at ab. 4900 rpm.
I wire loomed all the wiring, and am pulling key-on power from two wires going into the fuse box from underneath. (Not sure if the wording is large enough to read)
The finished product.
The short-ram intake I made from the left-over stock intake tubing. I used the stock MAF and housing, the SVT AIC and the SVT throttle body.
I have been trying to fix an erratic idle problem since I finished the install. So far I have made up a AIC restrictor from thin sheet metal cut to match the IAC module with two 5/32" holes drilled in it. So far that has fixed the idle, bringing it down to ab. 950 or so. It also cured the tendancy of the engine to rev higher as I clutch in when shifting.
Looks stock, drives stock, with no issues at all. Good driveability in stop and go traffic. A bit of flutter at 2000 rpm but thats normal for SVT's from what I read.
Once you get into the throttle, however, and that's when the fun starts. More torque at lower rpms than the Y2K, and you sure know when the short runners engage. It pulls HARD from 5000-7000, very quickly as well. Still smiling just thinking about it! :D
Bottom line, the best money I have spent by far. And cost? About $310 total money out the door. Three days spent leisurly working on it but that was due to the fabrication needed. I did all the wiring first, getting the DSI mounted and working first then tearing into the hard stuff. So, unless someone has this setup, I lay claim to the only working SVT intake swap in Canada. HOOOYAAAA!
P.S. Anyone who wants help or more info on this swap I am more than happy to help out.
