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ok first when you start the auto foci - this is my third - the idle runs high in the car untill it warms a little
this car is different
i can drive this car for a half and hour and it still idles high 800-975 rpm
and also when im driving in stop and go traffic or comming of the high way
the car wont shift down to first gear till under 10km/hour - take off it shifts almost imediatly
sugestions please
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what nothing?
focus gone - 2005 mazda 6 sport gt wagon - lovin it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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vaccum leak, o2 sensor...
Could be a lot of things....
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Reset the ECU via disconnect of the negative battery cable?
Give it 10-15 minutes (although 5 minutes is all that is really necessary) and then take it out for a rip with ALL different kinds of driving. If it doesn't settle down at that point, a sensor is likely to blame.
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if you let the car sit for a few minutes, does the car try to lower the idle at all? (if there was a vacuum leak or something broken, the car should still try to hunt for the lower idle).
and when you do this, is your air conditioner on (ie, set to full window defrost/defog?), and is the car in drive or park?
And are the highspeed fans on?
Do you have an aftermarket tune or chip?
having the car in drive, the airconditioner on, highspeed fans on, and a higher electrical load are all conditions that could add to the car's commanded RPM (which if you could datalog RPM and commanded RPM, that would tell you if the car's doing something it shouldn't).
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no defrost or air on - i let the car warm up and i can drive it for hours and its the same thing - it even ides high just revving the gas - - - you rev (hot engine) and it goes to 2000 rpm drops to 1700 runs and then drops after 5 sec to 1000
wtf??
and it still shift into 1st gear around 5-10km per hour when down shifting (auto)
arrrggghhhhhhhhh!!!!!
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The dropping into 1st at a very slow speed is done to prolong the life of the transmission. Ours does that too, and so had our previous Focus.
It'll 1-2 upshift under light throttle at about 15-20 KM/H, and it'll downshift 2-1 somewhere near where you're mentioning IIRC.
I'd still let the ECU reset completely and take it out again from scratch to see what it does. No aftermarket TB or anything? It almost sounds like the throttle butterfly itself or the throttle cable is sticking. Do you notice any extra effort required to push down on the gas pedal?
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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alot of extra force to brake because the car idle is high and wont slow down quickly
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Flofocus,Dec 18 2006, 10:02 AM Wrote:check your vacuum.
[right][snapback]220829[/snapback][/right]
yeah.. if the car is hunting for the idle, sounds like you could have an air/vacuum leak.
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went in to douglas ford - no luck started at 8 am and not luck with day one
they replaced - throttle body - maf - everything functional and still is the same situation
even in park - the car will start - run and 2 minutes later almost stalls out - revs back up - runs and chugs to stall out again- -
12 hours and no fix - will update for day 2
see ya
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now on day 2 - ford canada is now replacing my computer in the car - no one can figure this out - lol -
ahhh the good old reliable FOCUS
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12-23-2006, 11:37 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-23-2006, 11:39 AM by hardk0re.)
could be TPS? even IAC? I think even a buggered EGR could possibly do some funky stuf. But i'd say its definetly a sensor or something if it just started this.
IAC would make sense to me...and its a b#$% to change so that'll be the last thing they try.
Also double check the tube at the rear of your intake mani. from the PCV, sometimes those get worn out and get a hole, that could cause a vac. leak.
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We had the opposite (funky, really low idle) and it was the coil. I'm thinking it might be EGR as well.
Is it throwing a CEL at all yet?
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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not codes no nothing - i wants to stall out all the time - it does 2000 rpm at 20 km a hour and when i brake at a light it want to keeps going - so i am killing my brakes - so i put it in neutral and it goes up to 2500 or 2750 in rpm and slowly - slowly settles down
we will see - a computer is coming in from ford on tuesday
stay tuned
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hardk0re,Dec 22 2006, 08:37 PM Wrote:Also double check the tube at the rear of your intake mani. from the PCV, sometimes those get worn out and get a hole, that could cause a vac. leak.
[right][snapback]221377[/snapback][/right]
We had the same issue in the Focus, high revving and eventually it would calm down.
And it was a leak in the tubing for the PCV valve.
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ok - pcv valve replaced - all computers verified and main replaced - throttle body ok -
ford is stumped - the check engine light just came on tonight
will keep in touch
focus gone - 2005 mazda 6 sport gt wagon - lovin it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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If the light's on, that's a GOOD thing as far as diagnostics goes... it's something else to check that the ECU understands (unless it throws the wrong code).
Any corroded parts anywhere that matter under the hood that relay electricity? I'm starting to think you have a ground issue that's causing the low idle.
What about measuring output voltage to the charging system at idle?
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"
33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.
Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT
COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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heres the deal - i give up on ford - they are not giving up but are losing interest
i am getting done - compliments of ford - \
THE BIG 3
i have convinced them that this is the next step
so i will let you know if this works any better
stay tuned
focus gone - 2005 mazda 6 sport gt wagon - lovin it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Its cheaper for hem to give you a new car...hahaha.
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