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How To Install Rear Stress Bar
#1
So since there isn't a really current guide to it with pictures, i figured i'd make one. Its actually fairly easy, just more annoying than anything.

First you gotta take out everything in the hatch except for the spare tire/jack. But both pieces of carpet that hide the shock towers gotta go, its also easier to take out or at least loosen the upper plastic pieces which is basically the spots with the rear cold cathodes are mounted to when doing the hatch lighting improvment mod.

There are a few screws that come out but also theres one of those push-in clips that go into the body, so you really gotta yank on the plastic piece to get it to come out. Its directly above that screw hole.
[Image: Picture1884Medium.jpg]
Once thats out you'll have something that looks like this (interestingly enough on the drivers side you don't really need to take it out, i guess theres more room because of the wiring harness that goes there. I will also touch on that a bit more.
[Image: Picture1872Medium.jpg]
Anyone notice something strange? There is an empty plug and i have no idea what its for, any takers?
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Next theres this like plastic stuff, to get the washer (which is the template they give you) to go on that part, you kinda gotta take a bit off, so i just used a chisel.
[Image: Picture1875Medium.jpg]
To drill the pilot hole the instructions say to use a 1/4'' bit, i used a 13/64'' bit instead (which is smaller) because its on a spot weld and its very hard. So unless you ninja yourself in there its helpful to have an extra set of hands, i got into the hatch and sat down pushing on the drill well my dad stood outside and held it straight, like up/down wise.
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So you'll get something that looks like that, just repeat on opposite side.
[Image: Picture1878Medium.jpg]
[Image: Picture1876Medium.jpg]
Now unless you have a really sharp bit and a good drill, its incredibly hard to get that bolt hole in, the bolt is 10mm. So i used an electric drill, as in one you plug into the wall. And it still took a lot of effort to get through it, that part of the car is a lot tougher than you think.
[Image: Picture1880Medium.jpg]
[Image: Picture1881Medium.jpg]
Now heres the tricky part, the instructions say just to cut an X around the bar so you'd basically have triangle flaps hanging. I thought that'd look cheesy so I just took the washer (template one) which is the size of the car, put a screw in it and screwed it into the carpet plus a piece of wood. That way i could do this.
[Image: Picture1889Medium.jpg]
Came out nice and neat, then just place the bar in, since theres a gap between the carpet and metal (carpets pretty thick too) the bar sat flush, and actually held itself while I put the bolts in with an impact wrench.
[Image: Picture1885Medium.jpg]
[Image: Picture1886Medium.jpg]
[Image: Picture1887Medium.jpg]
Thats basically it, its more tedius than difficult, this was my first time doing it and I'm no genius. So once its all put back togeather, if you've got a sub that moves around like mine, perfect way to tie a stretchy around it. So sit back and enjoy a cold one.[headbang]
[Image: Picture1891Medium.jpg]
Little bit of show, little bit of go.
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#2
Doh!! when subs hit pretty hard, aren't they rub against those cable??

other than that, nice job!!
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#3
Great how to. Have you noticed any difference with it installed and how much did it cost? I will have a closer look on Monday at the Massiv Meet.
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
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#4
Very nice sir. Is that a FS one? I just got the FS one today as well and will be putting it on this weekend weather permitting.
Sold:2001 SE 2.0L SPI w/60mm TB, Steeda Shorty Intake.

Active: 2007 SES Hatch, Motegi MR7 Rims with 215/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, debadged, black painted calipers and drums, RS Knob, CFM Short Throw, Billet E-Brake, CFM Focus pedals, MBRP Exhaust, XCal2, FS Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Diamond Plate Floor Mats and Sills, Alpine MP3 Deck, Alpine V-Power 300w Amp, Pioneer IMPP Sub, AlpineType-S door speakers, VF Engineering Rear Motor Mount, F2 RS Spoiler, Tokico D-spec shocks, HTP Cross Brace, EBC Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Russell SS Brake Lines, RS Wheel, SVT Blue Seats, Vibrant 2.5" Race Highflow Cat, CFM UDP. Rear SVT bumper to come.

Active: 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited TJ [LJ], Volant CAI, 32" BFG Mud Terrains, and a whole bunch of goodies. Big Grin
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#5
konafocuswrc,May 29 2008, 09:42 PM Wrote:Doh!!  when subs hit pretty hard, aren't they rub against those cable??

other than that, nice job!!
[right][snapback]265483[/snapback][/right]
i don't have the bass cranked where it'd be hitting the cable. also theres a bit of a lip, so the subs would have to be at +6 ( i keep them on +2) for them to bounce off the stretchy lol. and i dont think i could handle that lol.
Focus man, Focus.,May 29 2008, 09:47 PM Wrote:Great how to.  Have you noticed any difference with it installed and how much did it cost?  I will have a closer look on Monday at the Massiv Meet.
[right][snapback]265484[/snapback][/right]
i put my dads 16's on that come with the zx5, and it feels like a whole new car. i take on-ramps with even more ease than before. it cost me $86 shipped, interestingly enough i accidently found the sales section on focussports website as i was looking through stuff. this was listed as "new/imperfect" i called randy up and asked what that meant in more detail than what it says on the site.

so basically i got the bar for $50 instead of $80 because theres a scratch about 2mm wide by 3mm long on the bottom of the bar which has been painted over with LOL.
Oscar The Grouch,May 29 2008, 10:32 PM Wrote:Very nice sir.  Is that a FS one?  I just got the FS one today as well and will be putting it on this weekend weather permitting.
[right][snapback]265488[/snapback][/right]
yes it is the FS one.
Little bit of show, little bit of go.
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#6
I'm wondering what those random switches are for. I should check out my SES and see whats up
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#7
Looks good!

Spinal,May 29 2008, 09:02 PM Wrote:Anyone notice something strange? There is an empty plug and i have no idea what its for, any takers?
[right][snapback]265480[/snapback][/right]

Thats the stock wiring for the factory sub/amp. Lucky bastard. My car didn't come with it pre-wired like that and had to do it on my own.
The new: 2013 Tangerine Scream ST
The old: 2005 ZX4 - MBRP 2.25", Marcy Motorsport CAI. SCT Tuning, Eibach Pro-System
--
Team PITA
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#8
torradan,May 30 2008, 07:46 AM Wrote:Looks good!

Spinal,May 29 2008, 09:02 PM Wrote:Anyone notice something strange? There is an empty plug and i have no idea what its for, any takers?
[right][snapback]265480[/snapback][/right]

Thats the stock wiring for the factory sub/amp. Lucky bastard. My car didn't come with it pre-wired like that and had to do it on my own.
[right][snapback]265504[/snapback][/right]

R U Serious? If so, that's fricken awesome! Can this wiring take any amp or only the ford OEM? I'm looking at getting more thump but don't want to switch out the deck if possible.

Sorry for being a thread whore but this is awesome. :lol:
Sold:2001 SE 2.0L SPI w/60mm TB, Steeda Shorty Intake.

Active: 2007 SES Hatch, Motegi MR7 Rims with 215/45ZR17 Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires, debadged, black painted calipers and drums, RS Knob, CFM Short Throw, Billet E-Brake, CFM Focus pedals, MBRP Exhaust, XCal2, FS Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars, Diamond Plate Floor Mats and Sills, Alpine MP3 Deck, Alpine V-Power 300w Amp, Pioneer IMPP Sub, AlpineType-S door speakers, VF Engineering Rear Motor Mount, F2 RS Spoiler, Tokico D-spec shocks, HTP Cross Brace, EBC Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Russell SS Brake Lines, RS Wheel, SVT Blue Seats, Vibrant 2.5" Race Highflow Cat, CFM UDP. Rear SVT bumper to come.

Active: 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited TJ [LJ], Volant CAI, 32" BFG Mud Terrains, and a whole bunch of goodies. Big Grin
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#9
I want to get one of these but im worried it will hit my roll cage next time were both out with out cars we have to see if it will fit in my hatch because im not sure about the placement
DruZX3 You Tube Page
My Rides on Car Domain

2001 Ford Focus ZX3 - Daily Driver
2008 Lincoln MKX Limited Edition - Grocery Getter
2007 Suzuki GSXR 600 - Rode and Sold
2004 Jeep Liberty Renegade - Offroaded and Sold
2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited X - R.I.P. Electrical Fire
2000 Ford Focus ZX3 - Traded in Now DrunkinMonkeys Car
2003 Ford Taurus Wagon - Inherited Drove and Sold
2000 Ford Focus ZX3 Turbo - Award Winning 336 WHP - Parted and Scraped
1990 Ford Festiva - My 1st Car

[Image: ZX3PixelCarEngineVIEW.png]
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#10
It looks as if you should be able to drill out any of those spot welds and put the bar in anywhere. I guess depending on where the cage is. But why would you need the bar if your cage keeps everything stiff already?
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
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#11
That empty wirring harness is for the factory sub and amp, that way its easy for the dealership to instal.
[center]TEAM PITA™ Don't settle for a wannabe, only accept the real deal.[/center]
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#12
because i didn't go with an x bar in the back which im regretting now so a stress bar will just strengthen everything up
DruZX3 You Tube Page
My Rides on Car Domain

2001 Ford Focus ZX3 - Daily Driver
2008 Lincoln MKX Limited Edition - Grocery Getter
2007 Suzuki GSXR 600 - Rode and Sold
2004 Jeep Liberty Renegade - Offroaded and Sold
2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited X - R.I.P. Electrical Fire
2000 Ford Focus ZX3 - Traded in Now DrunkinMonkeys Car
2003 Ford Taurus Wagon - Inherited Drove and Sold
2000 Ford Focus ZX3 Turbo - Award Winning 336 WHP - Parted and Scraped
1990 Ford Festiva - My 1st Car

[Image: ZX3PixelCarEngineVIEW.png]
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