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So I Attempted.....job Complete
#1
So I bought new rotors and pads the other day and this morning attempted to change them out. Just so you know I have done this before on my Focus and many other cars, but this time I ran into difficulty. It seems that the front rotors will not come off the hub and I have tried just about everything I could do with the tools that I had available to get them off. I took a torch to the hub and tried to heat up the rotor to break it loose, I took a rubber mallet to it and beat it silly and it still wont budge. Does anyone have any other suggestions on how I can take these off myself?

I even went out looking for a 2 or 3 jaw puller to clamp on the outter edge of the rotor and pull it off that way but no local stores seem to carry them anymore. I did get it all back together and everything is working fine for the time being, but the rotors are warped which is what prompted this job in the first place.

Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
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#2
Since you replace the rotor just beat on them with the hammer ( plastic hammer with sand in it is better ) but a regular mechanic hammer will do the trick too.
They will come off.
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#3
This always works for me.

Use a stiff wire brush or a Dremel with a wire brush attachment and remove all the rust scale from around the lip where the hub and rotor meet.

Then get a can of Liquid Wrench. NOT WD-40, Liquid Wrench; it's a penetrating oil. WD-40 isn't. Spray it around the lip of the hub (where the hub and rotor meet), and down the gap around each wheel stud. Let it sit for a couple of hours or overnight.

Then take two hammers -- personally I use two 3 pound plastic dead-blow hammers but since you're scrapping the rotors it doesn't matter; and hit on the rotor face on opposite sides alternating so you "rock" the rotor loose. Then it breaks free, then you can tap it from behind.

Be careful about using a torch -- you'll wreck the bearing hub if you're not careful.
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#4
I will give the dremmel trick a try tomorrow. I wasn't using an Oxy/Ace. torch it was just a little propane job. So I don't think that would do much dammage if any as the brakes get hotter under usage.

But I have given up for the day and will try again tomorrow.

Also, why do I need 2 hammers? Can I just use the same hammer on each side? :P
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
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#5
Focus man, Focus.,Jul 19 2008, 02:26 PM Wrote:  Can I just use the same hammer on each side?  :P
[right][snapback]269039[/snapback][/right]
Yes, but I find it faster and easier with a hammer in each hand than doing a whack-a-mole imitation and smacking stuff like brakelines and abs sensors. ;)
TEAM PITA: Don't settle for a wannabe, only accept the real deal.
*Magnetic Metallic 2015 Focus ST* *Red Candy Metallic 2012 F150 SuperCrew*
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#6
I had the same issue on my wifes escape. I had to beat them hard with a rubber hammer.

bang on each side, rotate 90 degrees bang again. it will come off...eventually.
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#7
PS. Make sure you clean the hub face really well so the rotor sits flat (use a wire brush). Buy some anti-seize paste and put a THIN coat of it between the hub and rotor so next time you don't have the same problem. Just don't go nutso and put it on places that will end up getting it on your brake pads.
TEAM PITA: Don't settle for a wannabe, only accept the real deal.
*Magnetic Metallic 2015 Focus ST* *Red Candy Metallic 2012 F150 SuperCrew*
*Supercharged Roush Phase 2 Kona Blue 2012 Mustang GT*
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#8
if its stuck at work we usually use the puller but in your case just beat the cra& with a metal dead blow it will go if your replacing them anyway it dont matter what it comes out as 1 piece or 50 lol
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#9
Ok I got a 3lb Dead Blow Hammer at Princess Auto for $3.99 on sale. But now its the weather dictating if and when I do this job.
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
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#10
Focus man, Focus.,Jul 20 2008, 01:39 PM Wrote:Ok I got a 3lb Dead Blow Hammer at Princess Auto for $3.99 on sale.  But now its the weather dictating if and when I do this job.
[right][snapback]269068[/snapback][/right]
Hey kev let me know if you need any tools if you haven't fixed it yet ex. 5lb sludge plenty of power. I have tons of tool from my grandfather when he worked at Kenworth.
Currently - 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 4X4 Work Truck. Needs a Super Charger
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#11
Scorcher000,Jul 20 2008, 08:35 PM Wrote:
Focus man, Focus.,Jul 20 2008, 01:39 PM Wrote:Ok I got a 3lb Dead Blow Hammer at Princess Auto for $3.99 on sale.  But now its the weather dictating if and when I do this job.
[right][snapback]269068[/snapback][/right]
Hey kev let me know if you need any tools if you haven't fixed it yet ex. 5lb sludge plenty of power. I have tons of tool from my grandfather when he worked at Kenworth.
[right][snapback]269074[/snapback][/right]

Right on man, I will let you know what happens tomorrow night. Hopefully I don't &quot;F&quot; things up when I do it. But I will keep your offer in mind. Thanks.
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
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#12
lol, funny thread...I just did the fronts on a escape yesterday, same issue, the rotor was on their good. Took the hammer for a good 5 minute, and it finally broke loose!

a puller will not work, I tried that too, but the puller actually just bent the vent holes on the rotor (these were rusted to s***)

Be careful with the torch aroud that area, last thing you want is to have to do a bearing job ;) I had to use the torch to take off the 2 bolts holding the caliper bracket on this truck, but you wont need to worry about those bolts on a focus (they aint there)
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#13
Yeah, of course the caliper came off real easy. But now I am into the rotor. Like I said, if the rain holds off tonight I will be beating the crap out of the rotor with my newly purchased 3LB dead blow hammer. I will let you know how I make out.
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
Reply
#14
Its a good thing I started with the drivers side as that was the only one stuck. If I had started with the passenger side I would have had half the job complete before running into difficulty. I beat the snot out of the drivers side rotor before it popped off. But it finally did.

I got them all back together and took it for a spin and what a difference!!!! I can stop a lot shorter than I ever have. I haven't really hammered on the brakes yet as I am just working them in gently but do they ever feel good. Best $79 I have spent on the car yet. LOL

Pic's to follow.
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
Reply
#15
So here are the pic's.

[Image: IMG_1915.jpg]

[Image: IMG_1916.jpg]

[Image: IMG_1921.jpg]
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
Reply
#16
Kev, where did you get those rotors ?
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#17
I got them from an E-Bay seller called TUTU Performance. They are in Markham. I didn't even buy them thru e-bay. Contacted him directly and went and picked them up and saved shipping costs.
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
Reply
#18
looks like a good buy hopefully they work well and don't crack
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#19
yeah you have to be careful with cross drilled rotors if they are not vented properly they have a tedency to crack, just keep an eye on them and watch for cracks.

personaly I like the powerslot slotted rotors myself. they stop nice and the couple of times I had to stop fast all you hear is the tires squwak and smell burnt rubber. they stop hard. plus the bonus it they have a sloted indicator as to when the rotors need replacing. ( ie when the slot is gone it is sime to get new rotors.)
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