[NikiterZTS]

paulicat,Sep 3 2008, 12:30 PM Wrote:Ok, mechanic got the bolt out. Salt was the culprit. Lots and lots of salt.
Tonight I'll "attempt" changing the bushings out. If that ends up being another fail, I already warned the mechanic he might see me again tomorrow. :D
[right][snapback]271535[/snapback][/right]

lol
i think Liu should be website sponcer :lol:

[paulicat]

I agree. :D
I changed my plans for tonight though, its too nice outside to be under my car. I'm in the pool tonight.
Tomorrow I'm going to get my intercooler piping bead rolled at Moore Performance in Milton.
Weekend will be the mount bushing replacement, figure I should give myself a couple days to wrestle with it considering how brutal it was just to get the bolt out. I'll also be replacing the two remaining rubber intercooler connectors with silicone ones. Both are 90 degree bends, one on the outlet of the IC the other is the 90 degree that connects the throttlebody to the piping.
Almost there...

[paulicat]

Ok, I couldn't wait till the weekend.
All I can say is WOW, what a difference those bushings make.
Easy to change too. Here's a tip for anyone thinking about swapping out the bushings: Remove the metal sleeve from the new bushings before trying to squeeze them into the metal mount. They'll slide right in like that.
However, putting the mount back into the car was a bit of a PITA. Mostly because I was working under ramps only, and the limited space made it difficult to get leverage.
Overall though, the install went great, and damn what a difference, even without the extra power you can feel the difference. Even better, it got rid of ALL the extra noises/vibrations I was complaining about earlier. I mean everything!
Whats left:
Bringing the intake piping tonight to get bead rolled.
Change fuel filter on the weekend.
Clean/coat the Prochargers K&N air filter.

Question for anyone reading this, I'm going with a step colder spark plug as recommended by most people at FF.com, anyone doing that here?
What did you gap the plugs to?

[hardk0re]

I've got the 1step colder plugs, just the copper ones from ford. Mine are gapped @ .045 that seems to work for me. If you get some hesitation in the higher rpm's then gap them a little closer to .040

[Flofocus]

its weird...I had mine 1st gapped at 045, then change plugs (thats it, just the plugs, nothing with tuing) and had hestitation, gapped em down to 035 and was good to go.

[paulicat]

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm using the same copper ones from ford.
Flofocus, when you say you changed plugs, did you change brand or anything else??
Maybe there's some manufacturing differences that allow some to work at .45 and others not??

[paulicat]

Got the piping bead rolled, theres a place in Brampton called Texis. They do truck exhausts. 8 bucks a bead, which is a little pricey, but hey it seems I was lucky enough to find a place to do it.
For anyone interested, here's a pic of the piping that will go from the intercooler to the throttle body:


And a close up of the individual pieces with the bead rolling (maf pipe is also bead rolled but too large for the closeup):


The two black hose connectors are only there for isolation. Those two spots rub/vibrate in the engine bay.
You can really feel the difference with the bead rolling. Easy insurance!!
The list is really short now:
Change fuel filter.
Clean/coat the K&N filter.
I've got one last coupler in the mail, 3.25" to 2.5" for the throttle body to maf pipe. Unfortunately, no one I called had one in stock so had to get it from the U.S.
Should be here next week.
Almost there...the plan so far is to bring it in for tuning Tuesday the 15th.

[Flofocus]

paulicat,Sep 4 2008, 10:31 AM Wrote:Flofocus, when you say you changed plugs, did you change brand or anything else??
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Nope, just bought a new set of plugs.

[NikiterZTS]

saw this set up on my driveway yestarday......looks too good...and S/C wine ahhhh....i want F/I slocuz :(

[paulicat]

Almost there Nik, almost there...I'm gonna have one of the guys in the back see if they can weld up that bolt for me.
I've found a shorty header and a 65mm throttle body for a good price, I don't think I want to go long tube for the amount of noise (daily driver). The throttle body I know is a good addon...
Please chime in on whether I should do this now before tuning, or if I do it later, will I need to be retuned??

[NikiterZTS]

Put 65mm before tuning.

not sure if you'll be getting enough power with that shorty header(if u do go that way get downpipe as well)

[paulicat]

I just asked the guys at steeda for the throttle body, he said the computer will learn the changes introduced by the throttle body.
If I had to choose, I'd pick the throttle body over the header right now.
We'll see if the throttle body deals goes through or not.
Time is becoming an issue though, I have to get tuning done before it starts to snow!!

[NikiterZTS]

hhmm....i guess they know better

you'll have to un-plug your better for 15min and all that jazz

[paulicat]

Yea sorry, wasn't questioning your knowledge there, but figured it would be best to get the word right from the source.
We'll see how it goes though, time time time...it keeps ticking away.

[paulicat]

How much of a PITA is it to change the header?
Rusted/stuck bolts notwithstanding...

[NikiterZTS]

i did mine in like 2 hours or so,,, yeah i had alot of rusted bolts

[paulicat]

NikiterZTS,Sep 8 2008, 12:19 PM Wrote:i did mine in like 2 hours or so,,, yeah i had alot of rusted bolts
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Thats fairly quick. I wouldn't have guessed that quick to be honest.
Right now, I'm leaning to leaving these upgrades till next year. I need to put a wrap on it and finish a "phase 1"...I dunno though.

[NikiterZTS]

just don't forget....you'd probably have to pay for another tune after......but that is up to you.......
the cheappest way is to put every part on the car and then tune it

from what i see you need these parts to get the most out of your S/C set up(second hand prices):

-Header(shoty or long tube,OBX will do) ~$150
-2.5" flex pipe (Truebandz) ~$100
-2.5" catback (Borla) ~$250
-2.5" high flow cat (Magnaflow) ~80
-passanger and drivers engine mounts ~$150
-adjustable camshaft gears ~$120
-maybe some cams like Ford Racing st.2 ~$200
-early ported intake manifold ~$80
-65mm throttle body (Focus Central) ~150
-Xcal2 ~$280

so like somewhere around $1000 to get your monster beefed up lol
but thats all up to you.....i got all that from the top of my head

the key thing to do is buying everything used to keep it on the budget :)

[paulicat]

NikiterZTS,Sep 8 2008, 01:57 PM Wrote:just don't forget....you'd probably have to pay for another tune after......but that is up to you.......
the cheappest way is to put every part on the car and then tune it

from what i see you need these parts to get the most out of your S/C set up(second hand prices):

-Header(shoty or long tube,OBX will do) ~$150
-2.5" flex pipe (Truebandz) ~$100
-2.5" catback (Borla) ~$250
-2.5" high flow cat (Magnaflow) ~80
-passanger and drivers engine mounts ~$150
-adjustable camshaft gears ~$120
-maybe some cams like Ford Racing st.2 ~$200
-early ported intake manifold ~$80
-65mm throttle body (Focus Central) ~150
-Xcal2 ~$280

so like somewhere around $1000 to get your monster beefed up lol
but thats all up to you.....i got all that from the top of my head

the key thing to do is buying everything used to keep it on the budget :)
[right][snapback]271857[/snapback][/right]

See thats the thing, by the time I source out all those parts its gonna be snowing...
I think I'm going to hold off on any changes until next year and complete it as it is right now. I want this thing boosted for at least a month or two before snow hits and ruins any chance of fun driving. :D
So what I might do is start sourcing out the parts, keep eye on used sections and gather things up over the winter for install next spring.
If it needs to be retuned, it needs to be retuned...but I'm convinced I need to do this in phases.

[NikiterZTS]

paulicat,Sep 8 2008, 01:03 PM Wrote:

NikiterZTS,Sep 8 2008, 01:57 PM Wrote:just don't forget....you'd probably have to pay for another tune after......but that is up to you.......
the cheappest way is to put every part on the car and then tune it

from what i see you need these parts to get the most out of your S/C set up(second hand prices):

-Header(shoty or long tube,OBX will do) ~$150
-2.5" flex pipe (Truebandz) ~$100
-2.5" catback (Borla) ~$250
-2.5" high flow cat (Magnaflow) ~80
-passanger and drivers engine mounts ~$150
-adjustable camshaft gears ~$120
-maybe some cams like Ford Racing st.2 ~$200
-early ported intake manifold ~$80
-65mm throttle body (Focus Central) ~150
-Xcal2 ~$280

so like somewhere around $1000 to get your monster beefed up lol
but thats all up to you.....i got all that from the top of my head

the key thing to do is buying everything used to keep it on the budget :)
[right][snapback]271857[/snapback][/right]

See thats the thing, by the time I source out all those parts its gonna be snowing...
I think I'm going to hold off on any changes until next year and complete it as it is right now. I want this thing boosted for at least a month or two before snow hits and ruins any chance of fun driving. :D
So what I might do is start sourcing out the parts, keep eye on used sections and gather things up over the winter for install next spring.
If it needs to be retuned, it needs to be retuned...but I'm convinced I need to do this in phases.
[right][snapback]271858[/snapback][/right]

yea i guess it makes sence......i'll keep an eye out for you for parts that are going for good prices......