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Big Frickin' Torque Wrench
#1
Anyone happen to have a big-ass torque wrench I could borrow? Doing my rear brakes, and the rear nut needs to be torqued to somewhere between 195 and 275 lb/fts (depending on what you read, need to get more specifics). My puny wrench only does max of 85, and don't really want to dump cash on one at the moment just for this.

Drop me a line if I anyone has one I can borrow. Will pick up/drop off and leave you some beer.

Unless someone is bored during the week and wants to come help get these bitches off.. and have a couple adult beverages along the way.
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#2
soak those bitches in liquid wrench!

Do you have a long, solid metal 'tube' that you could slip over a normal wrench? Thats how I usually deal with these kind of situations.
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#3
Go to a local Tire shop that does transport tires. Other than that I can't help you out. I don't work for the company anymore.
You would have to have a 1.5 inch socket to do it anyways.

If you wanted you could give any of the shops that do transport tires and have them go to your place and torque it for you. You'd be charged a service call and 2 torques but if you saw one of those guys on the road you shold be able to work out a cash deal.
Good luck.

But for my nut install I just reefed on it as tight as I could do and They haven't fallen off yet.
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#4
I think he's trying ot get them off.

But yeah...my torque wrench didnt go that high either, and I just put all my weight into it. No issues creeped up after that.
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#5
you could always go to canadian tire, get one and use it, then take it back lol.
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#6
^^-- I think he's trying to put them on, since you wouldn't worry about a torque wrench if you're removing.

I have a bigger torque wrench at home that I use for my tires and whatnot -- it goes up to at least 100ft-lbs and seems to have tonnes of room left -- I'll check when I get home and let you know.
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#7
Quote:Unless someone is bored during the week and wants to come help get these bitches off

sounds like he wants to get them off 1st :P I agree though, a torque wrench isnt used to remove nuts, its used ot tighten them to spec. Pretty sure you could damage the torque wrench if applying to much force to remove it.

The Canadian tire here has teh rent a tool program where they ask for a deposit, you borrow the tool and bring it back for a full refund of youre deposit. Ive used this for spring compressors before.

Liek I siad though...if you have a big steel tube you can slip over a wrench, this should give you the torque needed to crack these nuts. :D
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#8
Use a long bar on the handle of your wrench. That is what I did to take them off and put them back on. I used a breaker bar and a galvanized fence post. Both to take them off and put them back on. No problems yet and it has been at least 6 weeks. I just made sure that they were super tight.

You can have the fence post if you want one. We have a few laying around and you are in my area.
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#9
You need a breaker bar to get them off, not a torque wrench.

Breaker bars are cheap at CT.
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#10
my breaker bar from CT wasnt enough to get them off, had to use that and a metal tube slipped over it. I dont have the weight meford has though. :P :lol:
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#11
I use a breaker bar to take them off and my torque wrench goes to 220 ft/lbs and its 1/2&quot; drive. When I re-torqued mine I just set them to 200ft/lbs and I have no problems :) If I wasnt away this weekend I would have let you borrow my wrench forsure.
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#12
[Image: IMG00135.jpg]

This is what I used (above)
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#13
Have the breaker bar to remove them (and the big jack handle for additional oomph). So good in that department.

Just need socket and torque wrench. I'm afraid of just putting a ton of force behind them and calling it a day, because I have this fear of my wheel flying off :)
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#14
Spinal,Jul 9 2009, 04:25 PM Wrote:you could always go to canadian tire, get one and use it, then take it back lol.
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#15
i dident tourque mine even close....just impact it and it'll be fine mine hasnt fallen off yet and i only used an impact wrench......thats overkill for a tourque
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#16
Ok mission accomplished! Thanks kevin for the big frickin' socket! Felt like it was a wee bit too big, but it did the job.

I'd say 90 minutes and 4 beers was the time frame.

Oddly enough, taking the nuts off was simple. They barely required any ummph to take off. Nice and clean under the cap too.

Getting the one drum off was a major PITA though. I think that alone took up about 30 minutes of swearing and banging on it with the mallet. While I was swearing at the drum, wifey was nice enough to paint the drums for me after she was done doing her fingers and toes. At least the drums are black and not the ugly bubble gum color she did her nails.

Getting the new drums back on was a bit of a chore as well. There wasn't much clearance to slip the drum over the shoes. Even with closing up what I'm guessing is the self adjuster (what ever happened to the nice star wheel you could get at with a screwdriver from the outside?).

If these ever need to get done again, I'm swapping to discs.

Not sure why they had to try to improve on 2000 year old technology, but the last set of drums I had to replace was a much easier process, especially since they don't use the stupid clips, and used the round washer things with the notch in it that just gets turned 90* and locks in.

Cranked them down as hard as I could with the breaker bar &amp; jack handle.. will see if a wheel flies off tonight, have to go out to near the airport tonight to work.

Next up, adjusting the emergency brake.

Oh, anyone know what those little push in things are that are on the backside of the plates? On the bottom rear, and they're spring loaded.
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#17
Glad I could be of assistance with the tools. I hate those damn clips. I should have warned you about those. GM had it right with the tiny coil spring and circular clips.

Do you have a center arm rest? If so good luck adjusting the e-brake cables. You pretty much have to remove the whole centre console to get to the cables. I still haven't got them right. Thats another project on my to do list.

As for the loose socket I found that as well. I think it has more to do with the crazy multi layer nut that is on there. I hope you remembered to transfer over the ABS ring to the new drums. I learned the hard way. :thumbsdownsmileyanim:
Focus man, Focus........ Team Psychological Disaster
2008 Taurus X to be modded.
2002 ZX5 parted out. Forever known as the "SLOCUS".

2010 Dyno #'s 102.96HP/105.84TQ
2011 Dyno #'s 111.44HP/115.17TQ
Still The Weakest LinkBlush

Dial 1-800-AUTO-PARTS for your local speed shop.
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#18
torradan,Jul 9 2009, 09:36 AM Wrote:Anyone happen to have a big-ass torque wrench I could borrow?&nbsp; Doing my rear brakes, and the rear nut needs to be torqued to somewhere between 195 and 275 lb/fts (depending on what you read, need to get more specifics).&nbsp; My puny wrench only does max of 85, and don't really want to dump cash on one at the moment just for this.

fwiw The hub nut should first be tightened to 35Nm (26Lb-Ft) , Rotate the brake drum 10 times in the opposite direction when tightening the hub nut to prevent damage to the bearing, with a final torque spec of 235Nm (173Lb-Ft).

The dealership had to replace one of our rear bearings under warranty after not properly performing an easy job.
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