[reldridge]

So, last Tuesday, after driving to Kingston and back (3 hours round trip), and doing some running around in town, on my way home the lights started to dim on me. I turned off the radio, killed the blower motor, and limped it home. It was starting to buck and try to stall out just as I pulled in the driveway. I got it to the house and shut it down. Wouldn't restart, but all accessories would go.

I waited until after supper, then went out and fired it up. It started, and ran fine for a minute. I turned on everything (blower, radio, high beams, rear-defrost, etc.), and it died. It sat there as-is until today. I boosted it with the Mazda, and moved it into the garage. The car ran fine. I left it running for about 15 minutes, no problem. I shut it off, and it restarted fine. I shut it off again, and cracked open the manual and got out the volt meter.

-Before starting, the voltage (at the battery) was around 8 V.
-Running, the voltage was hovering around 11.58-11.60 V.
-After I shut it down, voltage was staying constant at 11.50-11.51 V at the battery.
-I just went out and tested again, and the battery has come back up to 11.99 V off.

I know my running voltage is low, so that suggests alternator. Should I look anywhere else? Cheapest I've found for an alternator is $186 (+ core charge). Really can't afford that a month before Christmas...

Any suggestions of where to look or what to check would be much appreciated!

[sonic_mikey]

(11-29-2010, 01:40 PM)reldridge Wrote: So, last Tuesday, after driving to Kingston and back (3 hours round trip), and doing some running around in town, on my way home the lights started to dim on me. I turned off the radio, killed the blower motor, and limped it home. It was starting to buck and try to stall out just as I pulled in the driveway. I got it to the house and shut it down. Wouldn't restart, but all accessories would go.

I waited until after supper, then went out and fired it up. It started, and ran fine for a minute. I turned on everything (blower, radio, high beams, rear-defrost, etc.), and it died. It sat there as-is until today. I boosted it with the Mazda, and moved it into the garage. The car ran fine. I left it running for about 15 minutes, no problem. I shut it off, and it restarted fine. I shut it off again, and cracked open the manual and got out the volt meter.

-Before starting, the voltage (at the battery) was around 8 V.
-Running, the voltage was hovering around 11.58-11.60 V.
-After I shut it down, voltage was staying constant at 11.50-11.51 V at the battery.
-I just went out and tested again, and the battery has come back up to 11.99 V off.

I know my running voltage is low, so that suggests alternator. Should I look anywhere else? Cheapest I've found for an alternator is $186 (+ core charge). Really can't afford that a month before Christmas...

Any suggestions of where to look or what to check would be much appreciated!

I cant remeber if the voltage regulator is external or internal for a Focus, but i would check that to if its possible.

[GFXjamie]

you can try a junk yard for one, however when i got one there it lasted me 3 weeks and was ~90$, however they come with a 90 day warranty aswell so if that one dies, take it back get a refund then buy the other after christmas is over

[ZTWsquared]

(11-30-2010, 12:29 AM)GFXjamie Wrote: you can try a junk yard for one, however when i got one there it lasted me 3 weeks and was ~90$, however they come with a 90 day warranty aswell so if that one dies, take it back get a refund then buy the other after christmas is over

Check the battery first ... use one of those trickle chargers overnight and see what you get ... a good one fully charged should see almost 13v ... personally I'd stay away from a junkyard alt ... there's a lot of time and effort that goes into replacing an alternator and IMO it only makes sense to put a new or reman unit in there, even if you do get a warranty with the junker

[xXCMGXx]

i would also test the battery properly before jumping on changing the alternator.

[Mystake]

(11-30-2010, 07:59 AM)ZTWsquared Wrote:

(11-30-2010, 12:29 AM)GFXjamie Wrote: you can try a junk yard for one, however when i got one there it lasted me 3 weeks and was ~90$, however they come with a 90 day warranty aswell so if that one dies, take it back get a refund then buy the other after christmas is over

Check the battery first ... use one of those trickle chargers overnight and see what you get ... a good one fully charged should see almost 13v ... personally I'd stay away from a junkyard alt ... there's a lot of time and effort that goes into replacing an alternator and IMO it only makes sense to put a new or reman unit in there, even if you do get a warranty with the junker

i'm gunna x2 this, but I had one put in by the dealership. It was a 'few' hundred dollars to do...

[Focus man. Focus.]

Charge battery then pull it out. Take to Canadian tire for a free load test. Clean the terminals before putting it back together.

[duckcanuck]

But regardless of the state of the battery, I would think that running voltage should be around 14V.

Good idea to get a load test on the battery. Many batteries get the automatic blame, and are replaced only to then discover the real source of the problem. Some of the parts places also will test your alternator if you bring it in.

By the way, the regulator lives in the body of the alternator, but Haynes says it can be replaced separately.

If it helps, when I needed an alternator for my Escort last June, I found these guys had great prices:

http://www.primechoiceautoparts.ca/t-about.aspx

Good luck. I hope it turns out to be something cheaper than a new alternator.

Bob

[reldridge]

Battery has been ruled out. It's a Ford Motorcraft MAX unit that I put in not quite a year ago.

Sitting static tonight, before starting, battery was around 12.2 V. Once I started the car to test, it dropped down to 11.25 V. Alternator is done. Voltage regulator is integrated in the alternator, so no luck changing it on its own.

Prime Choice is damn cheap ($92!), but at only a 90 day warranty, it's not worth the savings when all the rest come with a minimum 1 year warranty. Maybe if I was flipping the car I'd go that route (or used), but since I plan on holding on to it for another 2 years, a reman with a long warranty is going in.

[reldridge]

Ok, so finally got a new alternator yesterday (buddy who is parts guy at a Ford dealer hooked me up with a Motorcraft rebuild for a steal). I got the old one pulled (fun...), but not without issue. The ground pin (I'm assuming) broke off, and now I have the nut and stud firmly on the green cable. Soaked it in PB Blaster, and hopefully sitting overnight and tomorrow, it will come apart. If not, Dremel it is!

Oh, and fawk you Haynes. You make it sound so easy in you shop manual...

[reldridge]

Amazingly, everything went well tonight. Nut came off the broken stud, new alternator slid in (with some persuasion), belt went on, everything else is back together. Only problem is that the battery is not charged enough to start the car. Tomorrow night I'll boost it, and see what happens!

[Mystake]

keep the battery charged, if the acids freeze over then the battery is toast.

[reldridge]

Whoops, guess I didn't update this. Boosted it the next morning, and away she went. Been driving it ever since!

If anybody needs a hand changing an alternator on a Zetec, don't call me...

[Focus man. Focus.]

(12-14-2010, 01:21 PM)reldridge Wrote: If anybody needs a hand changing an alternator on a Zetec, don't call me...

LOL!!
I feel the same way if someone needs a water pump replaced.