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Name that noise
#1
No, really, it's making me mad. Sounds almost like it's the steering rack, but it only does it under fairly decent amounts of steering movement. No noise when the wheel is held still / cruising / etc. Groans like hell when cranking the steering wheel (but not consistently through the entire motion, just some of it), but minor lane changes and corrections produce nothing. Sounds like it's coming from just a bit to the passenger side of the car at the front.

Rack? Linkages?

You guys are going to make me shoot a vid of it (for the sound) aren't you?

Help is appreciated. I've never heard this one on any of my other Foci.
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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#2
is it only when moving, or does it happen when your is stoped too?
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#3
Strutmount bearing
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#4
Kev - It occasionally makes that noise when I come to a stop, but not when I'm stopped. It sounds like you're quickly moving a creaky, heavy door some, stopping, and then moving it some more - over and over.

Sparky - how much of a bitch is it to change if that's what it is?
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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#5
(03-02-2011, 09:35 PM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: Sparky - how much of a bitch is it to change if that's what it is?

If it is the strutmount bearing (and IMO that's a really good guess) then basically the suspension has to come out ... essentially like changing struts (they fit between the top of the spring and the shock tower), and in fact strutmount bearings are cheap enough they should be changed everytime you do struts.

Just as an aside, if your car is lowered, and / or it has one of those cheapo camber kits, I've known the spring to slip off the bearing and cause premature failure that way.
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#6
(03-02-2011, 05:40 PM)OAC_Sparky Wrote: Strutmount bearing

thats what i was thinking. mine sounded the same this summer. it really not that hard to change had mine done in about 1 hour in my driveway. just need a spring clamp and hand tools

and i think i only paid 80-100 bux for both
It my not be fast but its LOUD
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#7
Hmm. Thanks Ken, Willcann.

I might just hold out and drive the truck for a couple of weeks till I get back from a trip and then have both replaced along with pulling the front KW coilovers and installing the front half of the SVT suspension that I have sitting in my basement. I've been pondering the move a lot lately and I'm more of a performance guy than a "looks" guy - that and the mismatched suspension setup bugs me.
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
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#8
They aren't that hard to change. I'm planning on doing that to the Turbo Focus along with the swaybar linkages.
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#9
(03-02-2011, 11:25 PM)ZTWsquared Wrote: then basically the suspension has to come out ...

really? trying to remember, but couldn't you just undo the top strut nut, let the strut drop out...well lower it with a jack under teh ball joint and get access to the strut bearing form there? Maybe im wrong, been a while since I touched a focus.
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#10
(03-03-2011, 04:54 AM)Flofocus Wrote: really? trying to remember, but couldn't you just undo the top strut nut, let the strut drop out...well lower it with a jack under teh ball joint and get access to the strut bearing form there? Maybe im wrong, been a while since I touched a focus.

You have to remove the strut. 3 top nuts and a bolt or two on the bottom and the front sway bar link. You mught have to remove the brake caliper and rotor on the Focus can't remember if you can get by without I've done so many different car struts that I can't remember.

You have to compress the strut spring, remove the mount retaining nut (allen key in the shaft and wrench on the nut) remove the strut mount and underneath is the bearing. Then install in reverse order.
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#11
Thanks Sparky Smile

I'm cheap, so I'll just run the truck for now so that nothing blows up on me while I cruise around town. I think I'm definitely switching the suspension in the front if the entire strut has to come out anyway. I'll do both bearings while I'm at it and a front susp swap.

Kevo - let me know when you're online tomorrow. I have my "delivery vehicle" lined up for when I get back from Chile again. Big Grin
Daily driver 1: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport "S"

33" BFG Mud-Terrain KM2s, lots of Rough Country gear - bumper, 2.5" lift, swaybar disconnects, Superwinch 10,000lb winch, Detroit Locker in rear D44 axle, custom exhaust, K+N filtercharger, Superchips-tuned.

Daily driver 2: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT

COBB Stage 1+ package - AccessPort tuner, COBB intake and airbox. Stage 2 coming shortly - COBB 3" AT stainless DP and race cat, custom 3" Magnaflow-based exhaust and Stage 2 COBB tune.
Reply
#12
It all sounds like good advice.
But, how about this.
If it is the strut mount bearing, how about giving it
a shot of WD40 first. Give it a good shot from
above and below, if possible, then drive it again.
If that is the source, the WD40 should affect it
enough to possibly alleviate the noise temporarily.
If the noise is gone, that's your spot.
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