[NOS2Go4Me]

It doesn't get any more descriptive than that.

So, the ZX3's back on the road, but a few things need sorting:

Ball joints. Will replacing the lower control arms also replace the ball joints? Oscar and I seem to think so. Please let me know.

Seat cleaning. FML. For the month+ that the car was up in the air, some sort of oil, we think possibly transmission / gear oil, seeped into the front pass seat. Best way to get it out of the seat cushion? I'm not against removing the seat from the car if I have to in order to clean it.

Exhaust leak. I think I still have a small one at the rear cat flange to the cat-back. My buddy installed the race cat with the supplied flange bolts and gaskets that I got from Stan, but under load (only under load, mind) it still sounds like a tiny leak. Going to jack up the car today and tighten the flange a bit more / inspect alignment.

Clutch break-in. Wow. The car drives wicked, but I'm having a hell of a time getting a definitive break-in procedure for the Spec Stage 3 6-puck. Most of what I've seen for the Stage 3 for different cars says to baby it for 800KMs and then start gradually building it up in use. So, aside from a few seconds of stupidity where I did a 3K clutch drop by mistake, I've been really good to it. It engages quickly but smoothly and holds nicely when engaged. Thoughts? I'm also thinking of calling Spec when they're not "on vacation" and getting the lowdown directly from them - I love VoIP.

All in all, aside from a little shifter / shifting noise which might mean that the shift cables might need adjusting (although gears are always grabbed properly), I'm on the road and happy with it... so far. Needs moar work and finally body/paint, but so far so good.

Next up: SVT interior panels and SVT gauge cluster.

[oldeguy]

If I recall, replacing the lower control arms will replace the ball joints. Ford won't sell you ball joints, but will sell you control arms. Call a dealer and ask for ball joints, and don't be shocked at the price.

[Flofocus]

For the seats you will need a carpet extractor. Really the only way you will get it out. Rent one and do all your vehicles one weekend.

[reldridge]

Adam, get the Moog units. K80406 is the left side, K80405 is the right side. New bushings and ball joints already installed.

[Mystake]

dealer is gunna want about 300$ for the pair of front LCA's.

[Focus man. Focus.]

I think I paid $100 each for Dorman LCA's. Had them for over a year and so far so good.

[NOS2Go4Me]

The sad part is I called Maslack where we get a discount thru work and they quoted me 177 per side for Moog. Kark.

Going to look into it again, and if it's not much better I might just get the tubular LCAs from CFM (the same ones Oscar has).

Clutch break-in is going wel. Up to 170KMs so far. It's a lot quieter now, not clanging. I'm starting to think I might have a pinhole leak in the race cat, which makes me mad. The weather is better today, so I'll pick up one side of the car after the gym tonight and inspect things.

Oscar, wanna come over after work? LOL

Nate - I have a Bissel carpet steamer with a hand attachment. Might try that first.

[Flofocus]

(07-13-2011, 12:30 AM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: Nate - I have a Bissel carpet steamer with a hand attachment. Might try that first.

Junk, I returned mine the 1st time I used it. You need hot water to extract the oil. May need to use a degreaser that will not stain or bleach the seats....

[reldridge]

(07-13-2011, 12:30 AM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: The sad part is I called Maslack where we get a discount thru work and they quoted me 177 per side for Moog. Kark.

Are you coming down Ottawa way anytime soon? I know I can get them for about $130 each locally, or both shipped to you in North Bay from Rock Auto for $258.

What about Ken for pricing? He could bring it over, and have them waiting in TO for you...

[NOS2Go4Me]

I found some local used ones, Ryan. For the sake of the rest of the season, I'll go used for now to keep it safe and upgrade next spring to the CFM ones.

But seriously bud, thanks!

[reldridge]

If you go used, slap in some of these (Prothane Bushings) and a new Moog ball joint (K80067) and don't bother doing it again.

I'm planning on doing that for next season...

[NOS2Go4Me]

Hmmm yeah, the LCAs are fine, it's just the ball joints. Hmm, good call on the Moog ones.

That will likely be the road I end up going then.

Thanks again Ryan!

Oh, and there's no exhaust leak. The header/cat are just that loud (up front). o.0 We went over it twice with the entire front end up on ramps yesterday. Fun fact: '00 ZX3 on SVT suspension doesn't clear my ramps without lead-in 2x4s still.

All that's left now are the ball joints, re-install front strut tower brace, body and paint and to transfer the Fuzion HRis to the OEM 16s. Then, the big build-up happens this fall/winter once it's off the road.

[reldridge]

(07-13-2011, 08:48 PM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: Fun fact: '00 ZX3 on SVT suspension doesn't clear my ramps without lead-in 2x4s still.

Invest in a nice set of long Rhino ramps, and you'll be all set. That's what I did, and I have about 1 inch of clearance on the SVT setup.

[ZTWsquared]

(07-13-2011, 11:05 PM)reldridge Wrote:

(07-13-2011, 08:48 PM)NOS2Go4Me Wrote: Fun fact: '00 ZX3 on SVT suspension doesn't clear my ramps without lead-in 2x4s still.

Invest in a nice set of long Rhino ramps, and you'll be all set. That's what I did, and I have about 1 inch of clearance on the SVT setup.

Sorry to jack the thread Adam ... I could use a good set of ramps ... Ryan is yours the 6.5" height, or did you find some that went higher? I've seen the 8,000lb and 12,000lb versions online but although the 12k are listed as 8.5" all the comments indicate the true height is the same 6.5" as the 8k ... we all know how important those extra 2 inches are.

[NOS2Go4Me]

Ken, I'll forgive you if you can get me a decent price on those Moog ball joints.

WHY DOES IT HAVE TO BE SO NICE TODAY? All I want to do is drive around and listen to the car / break in the clutch.

EDIT - Rhino ramps eh? Interesting. I'll have to look into those.

[Oscar The Grouch]

My turn to threadjack.

The LED's are at the post office and you'll be able to install your SVT cluster today.

[reldridge]

Adam/Ken, I'll check tonight how tall. I know I can get under the car comfortably to wrench, and I'm not the smallest (5'7", 230 lbs).

[reldridge]

Checked the ramps. They're only 6" high, but there is over 20" in 'run' of the ramp. I picked them up at Walmart years ago.

-Ryan

[NOS2Go4Me]

(07-14-2011, 03:00 AM)Oscar The Grouch Wrote: My turn to threadjack.

The LED's are at the post office and you'll be able to install your SVT cluster today.

Weekend project!

Car's at Tim's now, getting the ball joints done. Scored the basic ones for 23 each plus tax. Figure I'll buy the tubular LCAs from CFM next year.

[NOS2Go4Me]

OK, so... who wants to take bets on how often I can swear in one post?

I got tired of yet another clunk that shouldn't be physically possible happening on the passenger's side at the front. Rolled the car over to my buddy at his garage. His diagnosis this morning was:

- passenger front swaybar endlink was LOOSE!? f**k OFF. Going to have words with my other "mechanic" buddy about that considering they're brand-new fucking Moogs and if it had been ruined, it would have cost him. No clunking now supposedly. We'll see.

- both front wheel bearings had play. Interesting. Other buddy checked the driver's side, said it was fine. Passenger was going. So, I bought a new bearing. His buddy pressed it in, but cracked one of the knuckle "arms" in doing so. Scratch one good bearing. So, he finds me a used knuckle with a "good" bearing. Installed. Seemed fine, but real mechanic buddy tells me otherwise. Not surprised. Bought two new bearings today - good ones. Will be installed today.

- header has a leak AT THE HEAD. I FUCKING KNEW IT. i HEARD IT, I TOLD "OTHER BUDDY". f**k. He's like, "it's the way your header is." Me - "No, it's an exhaust leak". We left it. Mechanic confirms it. I texted Stan, he tells me that my long-tube 4-2-1 was likely made by Focus Central. Googling the proper gasket for me tells me that the stock manifold gasket should be good enough. Looks like we might have to throw some gasket-maker into the mix. He's going to try and snug it a bit tighter as I'm not convinced it's mounted quite right.

Now all that's left to do once this is done is to install the SVT gear inside, the SVT front sway, flip my Fuzion HRis to the factory 16s and do the body/paint. Once that's good, I can buy up the gear for the high-compression build and a lower-KMs block.

Who has some fucking asprin?