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Didnt get much chance to look at it since its in storage... When it was recently moved i was let known that the charging light was on.
After taking a peak around it, everything looks fine. No noises (not from the alt, theres a small air leak above it though) no nothing, cables seem fine on quick look over.
Start the car, battery light comes on. Previously, the car sat for 3 months, I drove it for 1-1.5, parked it again outside for a few weeks before it got moved indoors by which point it was already having issues. Its been sitting since.
Thing that bothers me is that its a ford oem alternator that i got from shanahan ford back in early 2011 when i popped the old motor so its only got about 100k on it and only a few years old. I took a hammer and a bar to it and gave it a few good hits (maybe shouldve done it while it was running if it was rust on the brushes?) but no luck.
Thoughts? Ive changed an alternator on a zetec before and calling it a tight fit is an understatement so ill try other things first even if it means dancing for ten minutes while singing celine dion.
2003 Focus ZX5 Racecar/Perma broke/Storage
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for the love of god don't sing to Celine Dion. anything but that
2000 dark violet pearl zx3: eagle rods, je pistons, fidanza cam gears, arp studs, ford racing highlift valve springs, svt front/rear disc conversion, prothane total kit, fc 65mm throttle body Tial gt3071r, tial mvs wastegate, tial Q bov, top speed "street" manifold,down pipe and dump tube, greddy boost controller, siemens deka #61 injectorz, stage 4 bully clutch way to much more to list
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03-14-2014, 02:02 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-14-2014, 02:03 PM by GFXjamie.)
Just pull passenger side axle and it makes lots of space to pull it. Otherwise crack out a multimeter and see what the battery shows at idle and car off. If battery is good and charged it should show anywhere from 12v-13.2v. It takes 13.8v to charge a battery but should be closer to 14-14.5v range
In addition to this, a bad battery and alternator show the same symptoms. How old is the battery?
2007 ZX4 2.0l unaturally aspirated
FSwerks stage 2 Turbo kit, Cosworth Intake Manifold, 3" custom HKS turbo back
regular stage 2 @10ps : 232whp/219wtq
stage 2 plus @ 13psi: 278whp/229wtq
Stage 2 plus @15psi: 296whp/240wtq
2013 Focus ST Tuxedo Black - The daily
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03-15-2014, 04:41 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-15-2014, 04:41 AM by Mystake.)
(03-14-2014, 02:02 PM)GFXjamie Wrote: Just pull passenger side axle and it makes lots of space to pull it. Otherwise crack out a multimeter and see what the battery shows at idle and car off. If battery is good and charged it should show anywhere from 12v-13.2v. It takes 13.8v to charge a battery but should be closer to 14-14.5v range
In addition to this, a bad battery and alternator show the same symptoms. How old is the battery?
Battery is sub 2 years old. Also from ford. Thanks for the voltage info. Ill have to write it down.
2003 Focus ZX5 Racecar/Perma broke/Storage
2011 Volkswagen Jetta Daily Driver
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03-15-2014, 02:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-15-2014, 02:29 PM by GFXjamie.)
I wouldn't assume based on age usually that the battery is bad or good. Usually a load test will tell right away. If you charge the battery right up, then turn key on, lights, stereo everything and check voltage it will give you some sort of load to see how much it drops. A fully loaded battery on a load test shouldn't drop below 10-11 volts pending load put on it. With scooter batteries we consider them on their way out at 10.5 under load
The number under load would be using a regular battery load tester aka toaster
2007 ZX4 2.0l unaturally aspirated
FSwerks stage 2 Turbo kit, Cosworth Intake Manifold, 3" custom HKS turbo back
regular stage 2 @10ps : 232whp/219wtq
stage 2 plus @ 13psi: 278whp/229wtq
Stage 2 plus @15psi: 296whp/240wtq
2013 Focus ST Tuxedo Black - The daily
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Just so you know I had one alternator fail on me after 1 week. I also had a yellow top optima fail after 3 mths it wouldn't hold charge
E.O MASIV