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If I remember correct it was unusually high? 90 ft-lbs?
Oh, and I'm looking for the recommended spec not your personnal preference.
Thanks, today is my wheel swap day.
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yep...I think 90 is the average..
00 DAKOTA R/T.......I just didnt like the torque of the Focus thats all...!!!
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my tire guide 2000 book says 94 lb-ft if you wanna get technical, i could get the shop manual if really needed and check that
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Done, I went with 90, bring on the snow.
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I was told 85 ft-lbs for my summer wheels by a wheel shop!
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94 ft.lbs ford focus shop manual. B)
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coolsvt,Nov 8 2004, 02:48 AM Wrote:94 ft.lbs ford focus shop manual. B)
I knew it was high. I went with, and will stay with 90ft-lbs. I'm sure it is within the margin of error of my torque wrench and better than air tools at some shop (dealer or otherwise), thanks.
Did everyone know the stock lugs are 2 peice? Neither did I, there is a chrome plated "sleeve" over the lug itself!!!!
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What does it matter 90, 94, 85 ... lol...
Dan, Your friendly neighbourhood asshole. 
I do installs and build FG stuff, pm me if you need help with anything. Im cheap.
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Well for one thing there wheels, something I kinda want to get right. I agree 85, 90, 95 no biggie but if I had merely said: "torque them just like you do the other car" I'd have beeen off by 20 ft-lbs, perhaps a bit too much.
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Someone please explain to me why it matters.
Just tighten them so they don't fall off, so that you can remove them next time and not enough to snap the stud.
I have never and will never use a torque wrench then putting on some wheel lugs.
I don't know too many tire shops that do that either. They have the "torque bar" for the impact...but I'm sure that's not really accurate.
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11-09-2004, 01:38 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-09-2004, 04:48 AM by Kalos.)
Jays2000ZX3,Nov 8 2004, 02:01 PM Wrote:Someone please explain to me why it matters.
Just tighten them so they don't fall off, so that you can remove them next time and not enough to snap the stud. I have never and will never use a torque wrench then putting on some wheel lugs.
It wouldn't matter so much if there was some positive locking of the nut onto the stud - such as a jam nut - but there isn't. The only thing holding the nut onto the stud under vibration is the "tension" in the stud. this tension has to fall into a fairly narrow range between too loose and being so tight that either the stud is permanently deformed or the nut or stud are stripped. Also, overtightening can cause vibration due to brake assembly distortion, while undertightening can fail to dampen wheel resonance vibration.
Incidentally, the correct term is "lb-ft" - not "ft-lb". "lb-ft" is a unit of torque. "ft-lb" is a unit of energy. The sooner we convert completely to metric "N-m" the better.
All the shops I have seen use a torque wrench for final tightening. Admittedly their wrench is probably only accurate within 10%, and it looks like they use the same torque value for all wheels.
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11-09-2004, 04:43 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-09-2004, 04:44 AM by BrooksZX3.)
Jays2000ZX3,Nov 8 2004, 02:01 PM Wrote:Someone please explain to me why it matters.
Although I'm totally against guestimating, you're probably fine on the street if you have experience and can 'feel' close to the tightness required. If you track the car or run it hard, use a torque wrench... it matters.
btw... torque is defined as the force multiplied by length... so the torque is indeed a lb-ft or N-m. Here is a little nugget I recal from physics... the torque (t) depends on the force (F), the distance from a point on the axis of rotation to the point where the force acts on the object  , and the angle between them (theta), so the magnitude of the torque is t = rFsin(theta). Yes, bring on the metric!
Or you can just look up the torque in your drivers manual :P :P
2004 SVT 3Dr
STKVSTDA
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BrooksZX3,Nov 8 2004, 06:43 PM Wrote:Or you can just look up the torque in your drivers manual :P :P
It ain't there, Ford wants us to pay them $50 everytime we do a wheel swap. :rolleyes:
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I always went with 95.
I have a few cars.
One for my dog.
One that has no roof.
One that looks good parked at the golf course.
One that is being rebuilt by a guy named Nero..... will it ever be done?
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11-10-2004, 08:22 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-10-2004, 08:23 AM by Crazirich.)
2001 ZTS,Nov 7 2004, 09:53 PM Wrote:coolsvt,Nov 8 2004, 02:48 AM Wrote:94 ft.lbs ford focus shop manual. B)
I knew it was high. I went with, and will stay with 90ft-lbs. I'm sure it is within the margin of error of my torque wrench and better than air tools at some shop (dealer or otherwise), thanks.
Did everyone know the stock lugs are 2 peice? Neither did I, there is a chrome plated "sleeve" over the lug itself!!!!
LOL thats just the fine quality of the crimped on chrome, they get a little corroded or use a air gun and the tin like things fall off they are supposed to be a ONE piece design
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Jays2000ZX3,Nov 8 2004, 02:01 PM Wrote:Someone please explain to me why it matters.
Just tighten them so they don't fall off, so that you can remove them next time and not enough to snap the stud.
I have never and will never use a torque wrench then putting on some wheel lugs.
I don't know too many tire shops that do that either. They have the "torque bar" for the impact...but I'm sure that's not really accurate.
torque bars are pretty accurate. I use them at work. If you are using an impact gun, torque bars are a must. If you measure rotor runout using a regular socket with an impact gun, and then using the torque bar, you will see a significant difference in rotor runout. Excessive rotor runout causes the rotors to warp and can cause brake vibrations at high speeds.
SVT Motor Swap into 2000 zx3 with 5spd.
14.9 @ 93MPH
"I am going to run 5's .... I am planning on installing a rocket engine!"
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boost til'bust,Nov 9 2004, 08:5 Wrote:Jays2000ZX3,Nov 8 2004, 02:01 PM Wrote:Someone please explain to me why it matters.
Just tighten them so they don't fall off, so that you can remove them next time and not enough to snap the stud.
I have never and will never use a torque wrench then putting on some wheel lugs.
I don't know too many tire shops that do that either. They have the "torque bar" for the impact...but I'm sure that's not really accurate.
torque bars are pretty accurate. I use them at work. If you are using an impact gun, torque bars are a must. If you measure rotor runout using a regular socket with an impact gun, and then using the torque bar, you will see a significant difference in rotor runout. Excessive rotor runout causes the rotors to warp and can cause brake vibrations at high speeds.
Torque bars are not accurate at all. We have had them removed from the local tire shop by proving they do not work. Now they only use a torque wrench.
We brought in a truck which requires 475 lbs of torque on the wheel nuts. We tightened all the nuts using a 475 torque bar and then proceeded to check the torque with a torque wrench. Out of 10 lugs 8 of them were torqued to over 900 lbs. The other two were over 600 lbs.
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