[Scorcher000]

Hey, so since my original thread was deleted I am making this thread for those that wish to see what happens when tearing apart a stock motor and building a performance motor.
Feel free to ask any questions you have. I will create a list of parts again that I will be putting into this car.

Day 1

Parked it inside my works shop after I stacked some tires up to make room.
I then took off the bumper, headlights and top rad support.
I removed the battery, valvecover, and unclipped the major section of the wiring harness from the engine.

[drunkinmonkey]

om nom nom

[zx3wantobesvt]

Nice cant wait to see the progress !

[Scorcher000]

Haven't touch it yet, I still need to set it up on stands and drain the fluid but here is teaser for the suspension. And a look at a GWerks 2.3L Baffle

[drunkinmonkey]

om nom nom love massives stuff. high quality stuff

[Scorcher000]

Ken dropped of my new rims the other day.

Cobra R replica rims.
Front 17X8 ET 19+
Rear 17X9 ET 20+

They are going to look perfect on there
[img][/img]

[GFXjamie]

Planning on stretching a 205 40 on all corners? I suggest some coilovers if you haven't ordered them yet too lol

[Scorcher000]

lol, no not yet. I am just waiting to rip the engine out first then I'll get Ken to order me in a set of K-sports

I was going to go with the
BF Goodrich G-Force Rivals
215 45 R 17


I think that will give me a little bit of stretch and a good drivability if when I take it to the track.

[GFXjamie]

The fk's are 17x8 et35 fronts with a 215 they rubbed a little so unless you plan for some camber or flares up front they will be a tough fit without lots of pulling

[Scorcher000]

SOB, really... You think they will fit if the fender is rolled or does it have to be chopped out with flares?

[Scorcher000]

Day 2

So today I drained the fluids and started to remove bolts and hoses. The Coolant Rad and fans were removed today and the A/C Rad will be removed for good soon.

I also stuck a wheel on to see the fitment and is fits the way I like it. The fronts stick out from the fender by half an inch, and the rear stick out by 1.5 inches lol


I pulled the fuel line off of the fuel rail and used a rag to soak up the leaks


Removed the camshafts and head bolts, they cam out easier this time. Don't know if I have more strength or they didn't have the proper tq when installed. I never did a retorque after a heat cycle.


Removed that bitch of a power steering pump. Need to get a new one. I cracked the cast aluminium housing.


This is the hardline from the PS pump that is annoying to remove


Old passenger side engine mount removed




That's it for now, the side cover needs to come off to remove the head.

[Scorcher000]

Day 3

I removed the Focus Central UDP and Water pump pulley along with all the side cover bolts but hen I had to run off to do some work...



If you look at the picture below. You will see the UDP pulley in the bottom left corner. The water pump pulley flange on the top and the A/C compressor at the bottom right. Just to the left of the A/C is the bolt I will be installing the idler pulley to delete the A/C compressor.
Also if you notice that the side cover all ready has clearance groves milled into it. I guess that was for the cheaper US spec Fofo with no A/C option.

[Scorcher000]

Day 4

Today I had a couple of hours of free time so I used it usefully.

I removed the side cover and a hole bunch of bits too. See below...

Side cover gone and timing chain and guides removed.



Pulled the head off once all the bolts and hoses were removed. I left the Cossy attached because the bolts I used are a PITA to remove and get at. If you own a Cossy then you know what I'm talking about.




Now you can see whats left to come out since the head is no longer there.


The cylinders are looking good but the felpro head gasket doesn't look all that good around the smaller coolant ports. The blue on the gasket lifted off of the metal... no damage caused from this and everything was sealed too.


Removed most of the hoses and I found some of them no longer holding a circular structure causing restricted flow. I am going to be upgrading all the hoses with Stainless Steel for look and durability.


Starter is removed to access the flex plate and bolts to the torque converter.



All the bolts removed from the torque converter and I started to remove bolts from the engine block and tranny but then I had to take off on a call.

More for another day...

[drunkinmonkey]

looking good John. keep at it buddy

[Scorcher000]

Thanks

Ya Ken just gave me some pricing on
Ksport Coilovers
Ford GT (GT40 Super Car) Fuel Pump
AEM Water Meth Kit +

So I said order them in lol. This car is going to break necks all day long when it's done.

[GFXjamie]

Keep it going buddy! The gt pump will definitely make that fuel system perfect now. No more hold backs really for your goals

[Scorcher000]

Originally I wanted anything above 200HP at the wheels. I have a feeling this will be pushing past Dru's number of 360HP on his Drag ZX3...

Day 5

I had lots of time today to dink around with the car. I got sprayed in the face by the Freon in the A/C lines... and the block is out.

Well bad new to start off!! I pulled the head last time and I just looked it over and removed the intake manifold and water manifold off the head. Looking in the intake valves I found a seal and lots of oil blown into the system. Not impressed. So I guess that's what happens when a car sits for a year and then you run the snot out of it on first drive lol


I used 2 head bolts through the chain and bolted them to the block. Then used the engine hoist to apply pressure to the block to loosen the last few bolts off. The axle bearing bracket was a PITA and so what the Header and Alternator so if you are doing this don't forget to do them first lol


I got it broken free from the tranny. There was enough room to allow a block removal with out the need of the tranny coming out too.


There is that dam alternator...


Almost all out of the car. After I take the from suspension out I'm removing everything to the firewall and installing new aluminium heat resistant fabric and cover all line plus upgrading all the other lines to SS Braided. I don't need melted plastic with the heat that is going to be trapped back there.


Some random pictures






Here's a good picture of the block hanging right in front of another neck breaker.
I don't know much on civics but it is running the same turbo I have and a similar let up for exhaust. The engine is a Y??? single cam, fully built, over...,over sized pistons with 350 chevy head bolts that still lift at 23PSI. Boost come in at 3500RPM to 7000RPM 380HP and 300TQ at the wheels. Netronics tuned it.


That's it for now peeps. Tell me what you think so far guys.

[1turbofocus]

Have you thought of putting a 2.3 or 2.5 back in it ?

Breaking 360 isnt hard to do at all

Tom

[Scorcher000]

(11-01-2013, 08:25 AM)1turbofocus Wrote: Have you thought of putting a 2.3 or 2.5 back in it ?

Breaking 360 isnt hard to do at all

Tom

Ya I started with a thread but it was deleting by hackers... it explained I'm installing a 2.3l Fusion block from the FocusSport Sema Fusion and my custom ported 2.0l head with over sized super tech pistons and all the other toys too. just not over sized valves. Supertech redesigned their valves and then they raised the price so ya. That's the only thing jot being up graded on this engine.

Also yes this is very easy job but I'm doing the thread so other can see the point by point action that happens when doing it.

[1turbofocus]

The 2.3 head will out flow a ported 2.0 head , get both heads side by side and just look at them you will see what I am saying

Tom