[darkpuppet]

just adding my .02..

Did I mention that even Bauer doesn't recommend cross-drilled rotors for track use? They admit that with current brake technology, cross drilled is just bling, and the disadvantages outweigh their advantages.

personally, I noticed a grinding noise at low speed when I had cross drilled... like a cheese grater..

the slotted rotors are quieter, with just the whooshing sound when on the brakes.

[ANTHONYD]

Thanks for talking me out of cross drilled rotors and greenstuff pads.

I was going to buy this kit for my next brake job. :lol:

[hardk0re]

I had a problem with a set that sounded like grinding, but now with the ebc dimpled/slotted rotors I don't get any of that problem.....


Perhaps allot has to do with quality also. Some places just take blanks an drill them with a drill press......

[Flofocus]

hardk0re,Aug 31 2005, 09:20 AM Wrote:I had a problem with a set that sounded like grinding, but now with the ebc dimpled/slotted rotors I don't get any of that problem.....


Perhaps allot has to do with quality also.  Some places just take blanks an drill them with a drill press......
[right][snapback]137687[/snapback][/right]

*cough* KVR *cough*

[darkpuppet]

Flofocus,Aug 31 2005, 09:27 AM Wrote:

hardk0re,Aug 31 2005, 09:20 AM Wrote:I had a problem with a set that sounded like grinding, but now with the ebc dimpled/slotted rotors I don't get any of that problem.....


Perhaps allot has to do with quality also.  Some places just take blanks an drill them with a drill press......
[right][snapback]137687[/snapback][/right]

*cough* KVR *cough*
[right][snapback]137689[/snapback][/right]

*cough*EVERYONE*cough*

[scoobasteve]

I'm not that big of a fan of greenstuff pads. They HARDLY make less dust than the factory svt pads. They help brake better though. I'll have to see how long they last before i can give them a proper review.

Setup (Greenstuff Pads F/R) Stock SVT rotors

In the end the greenstuff pads turned out a bit cheaper than grabbing OEM pads from the dealership. Be careful though, There was a back-order on the rear pads. took 4 weeks to get them

Total cost for F/R Pads was just under 200.00 Not too bad if you ask me.

[ZX3TUNING]

Drivesthebeast,Aug 30 2005, 07:38 PM Wrote:Well, from what I've been told by many people, is that cross drilled and slotted rotors only work properly, or have a benefit over stock when they are at full operating temperature, and to get to that temperature, you have to drive the car on a track, or like its stolen.  Sure the drilled holes and stuff help reduce heat, but you only want that when pushing the limit, not under stop and go, or normal driving conditions.  Heat is caused by friction anyways right?  That's a good thing, because the friction makes you lose inertia and be able to stop.  I think I'll just get some EBC or Hawk Pads and keep buying stock rotors for the time being until I can afford to buy bigger wheels to fit larger calipers and rotors into...
[right][snapback]137591[/snapback][/right]

slotted and cross driller rotors do NOTHING for removing heat.

when pads heat to the upper limits of the temp range for the pad they start to "gas" or break down and release a vapor/gas that can get caught between the pads and rotors. this basicly kills and sort of brakes you had and often feels like brake fade. slotting and cross-drilling gives that gas a place to go.
there is no other reason for doing either to brake rotors.

and like you said, the only way to gain the benifits from drilling or slotting is at the track.

on a basicly stock or mildly modded focus or even a Focus pushing upwards of 170-200fwhp all you need is a pair of Brembo blank rotors, Hawk HPS or HP+ pads, a set of stainless brake lines and some quality brake fluid. this is MORE than enough to handle anything you can throw at your car on the street and AutoX.
for extended track use real big brakes(like a TCE kit) are a must.
for light lapping days i would suggest the above basic setup as bare minimum and something like a SVT front brake kit, or Bat kit as "suggested" with a real big brake kits as "ideal".

EBC pads are nothing special. the green stuff are designed to dust less and offer marginally better bite than OEM. redstuff is a much btter performance pad from EBC.

Hawk pads are what we suggest as they are a killer pad at a very nice price.

[darkpuppet]

From the Stop Tech Site:

Quote:Drilled or cross-drilled rotors: Discs that have been drilled through with a non-intersecting pattern of radial holes. The objects are to provide a number of paths to get rid of the boundary layer of out gassed volatiles and incandescent particles of friction material and to increase "bite" through the provision of many leading edges. The advent of carbon metallic friction materials with their increased temperatures and thermal shock characteristics ended the day of the drilled disc in professional racing. They are still seen (mainly as cosmetic items) on motorbikes and some road going sports cars. Typically in original equipment road car applications these holes are cast then finished machined to provide the best possible conditions by which to resist cracking in use. But they will crack eventually under the circumstances described in another section (see Cracking). Properly designed, drilled discs tend to operate cooler than non-drilled ventilated discs of the same design due the higher flow rates through the vents from the supplemental inlets and increased surface area in the hole. That's right, inlets. The flow is into the hole and out through the vent to the OD of the disc. If discs are to be drilled, the external edges of the holes must be chamfered (or, better yet, radiused) and should also be peened.

from the Baer website:

Quote:In years past, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as "green pad fade" or "outgassing". When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today´s race pad technology, ´outgassing´ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for races pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, "dynamic surface treatment", "race ready", and/or, "pre-burnished". When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ´outgassing´. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ´outgassing´, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential "stress risers" from which cracks can occur. Baer´s rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

I have not seen any reliable source say that cross drilling is recommended for performance applications.... these days, cross drilled rotors are for looks only!! ..
hell, even when it's a company's JOB to sell you brakes, they won't sell you cross-drilled brakes for performance applications.